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#1
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actually the info i found out was the need for a separate amp for the BT....
as for the DSP, i know that Janix has a shop in Mass that may have figured it out... maybe he'll stop by and chime in! |
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#2
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Actually, Sound in Motion didn't use this method for Janix, but he is considering doing what we did when he does an amp swap.
As far as the "need" for a separate amp for the Bluetooth, I also thought that we would need one, but it turned out that we did not need one - and couldn't even make one work the way I expected to. Driving a dedicated speaker worked fine, and as far as the dedicated BT amp, I'm not clear on what it would be good for, to tell you the truth. Is there a specific reason that someone is saying that an amp is required? And is that amp including a speaker? Because they might just be recommending a non-DSP OEM amp that has a Bluetooth input to route the BT audio through the OEM speakers, and that wouldn't help in this instance. I've talked to Sound in Motion, and they seem like a smart shop, I'd refer friends to them in a second - but I don't think they've got anything on us on this car. Neither S-I-M nor our store were familiar with the DSP bypass trick - it took TJJ to bring it up. And now that we've done it, I will put our ability to upgrade the audio in an X5 with DSP up against any shop in the US.
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musicar northwest, portland oregon musicarnw.com The West Coast BMW audio experts |
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#3
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i wholeheartedly agree about your DSP setup. never seen anyone achieve what you have done with TJJ. kudos to you both.
as far as the BT, I have no working knowledge but asked someone to comment. they may or may not, but they reverse engineered the BT kit to work on pre-03 X5s, and have an indepth knowledge of the BT electronic workings. keep us posted on your project! |
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#4
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I recently got rid of my DSP amp by using the method descibed here, works great!
Does anybody know the part no for the non-dsp cable to the CD-changer? I am planning to buy the ICElink, but i'm not sure it will fit straight in to the radio module? |
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#5
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analog cable
you may want to contact Tom G. he's your man when it comes to icelink and the analog cable. i did the same bypass with the dsp and being that I had the sirius installed I didn't need the cable being that sirius uses analog signals, but here is the link to the subject previously discussed
http://www.xoutpost.com/stereo-system...t=analog+cable |
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#6
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This thread should really be sticky'ed since this question comes up over and over.
As for the rear speakers, we tapped into the two open pins with some power cables from a computer power source. Worked pretty well and we had them laying around. I have fader control. Too bad I didn't see this write-up when we did the install.
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2003 4.6is, Saphire Black on Black with Aluminum trim, Comfot Seats, Loading floor, Nav, TVonNav, Focal Utopia's in front, with Rainbow's in back, Helix 5 channel amp. ACS pedals, Aluminum steering wheel trim, X-pipe |
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#7
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dear all,
As mentioned earlier I got rid of my DSP amp using the procedure described in this thread. Everything works perfectly and the sound is also great... Until I start the engine. I tried several LOCS and even purchased the Alto Mobile UI-4 with dedicated balanced-to-unbalanced function. However I keep having problems with alternator buzz. It is not so loud that it is totally unacceptable, however in my opinion alternator buzzez in BMW's do not belong there... If I disconnect the amplifiers from the UI-4 converter or from the LOC's, the noise is gone. Would the Jensen ISO-MAX solve my problems???? Any suggestions are wellcome. many thanks Michel |
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#8
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The IsoMax has each can in a metal cover AND the metal housing. Stay away from the grounding bracket forward of the changer area, on the wheel well.
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musicar northwest, portland oregon musicarnw.com The West Coast BMW audio experts |
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#9
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Thanks for your reply,
But im not sure if I know which grounding bracket you mean? I grounded all equipment directly to the battery, tried other grounding also, but no difference. thanks Michel |
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#10
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Quote:
You are right, there should be no buzz. I don't trust Also - former dealer - I think that EMI is probably an issue. What amps are you running? Have you checked to see if you have tweeter alternator whine with the system off - including the amps (pull the fuse if you need to, it's an easy way to check). If there is whine with the fuse pulled, the passive crossovers have inductors in them which are picking up EMI from a nearby wire. If the power wire for the amps is right on top of the xovers that will cause the problem. If the fuse pulling doesn't prevent the noise, then pull the xovers out of their current location and get them as far as you can away from the wiring and see if the noise goes away or changes in character.
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musicar northwest, portland oregon musicarnw.com The West Coast BMW audio experts |
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