The hardest part by far is fitting it in to the bootlid strip, This is very fiddly and takes a lot of time. The complete kit barely fits in to the strip and I would say this retrofit is the least "plug and play" I have had to do.
The wiring is the easy part and so long as you follow the instructions you will be fine.
Another difficult aspect for me (E46) was that you had to enlarge the hole in the bootlid where the loom comes through in to the back of the strip handle.

Here are some shots:

Thanks NBTBRV8. The pictures were very helpful!! Do you find the boot handle difficult to use or similar to your other handle?

__________________
Abster641

That looks pretty good. Did your kit come with just the rectangular section containing the camera and the new trunk opening button or was it the entire handle strip?

The boot handle is a little bit harder to use as you have to find a smaller button now which is not central to the handle and when you lift the handle I press on the rectangular base (which came with the kit) instead of directly on the camera itself.

You have to massively cut in to the strip to get it to fit, you cut the wires going to the microswitch and solder in the new button. You also get too much loom for the new button and you have to cut nearly all of it off otherwise the wiring won't fit in to the handle.

One other word of warning which the EBA guide doesn't tell you. When you sit the rectangular base on the underside of the bootlid strip it you are meant to drill the 4 holes in each corner of the base and then use the self tappers to screw the base to the underneath of the handle. However the handle is not solid plastic, so if you don't drill the holes in the centre of the flat portions on the handle you'll find that the screws don't have enough plastic to screw in to and they strip the holes easily. So my suggestion is to see roughly where the plastic base wants to sit on the underneath of the handle to guage roughly where you have to drill, but draw two centre lines on the flats where the rectangular base sits so when you go to drill the holes you are drilling in the centre of the plastic base giving your screws the best opportunity to screw in to the meat of the handle.

It is a bit hard to describe, but essentially don't just drill the holes where the rectangular base sits, mark the holes first, remove the base and then see if the holes are central to the parts you are drilling in to. There is not much room for error, so if you drill the holes off centre there won't be enough thickness in the plastic for the screws to bite in to and they will strip.

One other thing, it took me a hour or so to run the loom through the rubber conveluted tube between the bootlid and body of the car. I ended up wrapping the loom in electrical tape and spraying copius amounts of CRC on the electrical tape and down the tube. I also suggest twitching wire underneath the tape on to the loom and pull this wire through. The plastic wire they give you to pull it through is a bit thick and it broke a couple of times on me rendering it useless.

If you get stuck or want any more info let me know.

any one has stock number for small camera

__________________

HEY BROTHER I am just trying to help
TRUST ME you will need the switch in order to used your OEM screen
maybe I am missing something

__________________

I appreciate the help... My shop told me that when they tap into the reverse wire, it automatically toggles the screen... A reverse camera is useless to me unless it automatically switches into reverse...

you are right I know you can hook up my unit into the reverse wire But I choice not to using reverse wire.
the toogle switch is to change navigation/radio screen to camera/video input
trust me on this.

__________________

My shop mentioned they could toggle the video with the clock button on the Nav screen instead of a toggle switch... Ever heard of this before?


Great link, thanks!