:thumbup: I just find it difficult to find an affordable new rear wheel drive you can use 12 months / year. It is close to MB / BMW that are your options. I never had a problem with my E46 (see where Finland is located in the map :)). The DSC is very advanced and even without... With manual you have a lot better control of what will happen and is going on.

- p

rwd in winter
 

My last car was a '03 330ci.
I had dedicated snows and it was not terrible - especially with DSC and being a a manual. However, I live and work in Boston so the streets are cleared pretty quickly after it snows.
It was definitely not as good as AWD. If there was a lot of snow on the ground I parked it and took the subway and I would not like to plan any long distance trips in winter new england in a rwd even with snow tires.
I do miss it though - it was WAY more fun to drive than the X.

FWD is better in slipper conditions for one major reason: the power is being applied to the wheels that are doing the steering.

To explain in a little more detail, if you are driving down a curvy road in the snow, there are obviously times that some of your 4 tires are going to lose traction. In a RWD car, the power is going to the rear wheels which are pointing straight at all times. So if your front tires lose traction, you will simply go straight off the road. In a FWD car, when you turn the front wheels to go around a curve, the power being applied is being pointed in the direction you want to go.

Of course if you have a good set of snow tires, then there is less chance of losing traction in your front wheels. But all things being equal, FWD is better in the snow.

Yes, and when you "overpower" your driving wheels in a FWD car, bingo! You've just lost steering as well. Again, learned to drive in Michigan in the winter, in both FWD and RWD cars. I'll take a RWD car every time, with or without DSC. Auto or manual.

Rearward weight shift due to acceleration, while true in theory, would happen after you accelerated, or started to accelerate. So, that meant you already had traction. If you are getting additional traction due to rearward weight shift, almost by definition, you don't need it. Accelerating slowly (like when you are on snow) won't produce any significant weight transfer, IMO.

The weight shift that does matter is while climbing a hill, at least if you are going forward. The best traction of all in that situation is a front wheel drive car, backing up a hill.

I don't think the issue is overpowering the front tires, it is in fact more likely to be that they are being underpowered when the car is sliding out of control.

In a RWD car, the usually correct action is to lift on the throttle when starting to slide or understeer in snow. In a FWD car it is more important to keep the power on so as to not upset the balance of the car when approaching traction limits. FWD got a bad rap because drivers used to RWD almost always lifted at the onset of a skid, thus reducing the traction on the front wheels, and hastening their trip into the ditch.

Watch old videos of Erik Carlsson with a Saab on a rally circuit. He had some amazing tricks.

I spent some years driving a Saab 99 and later a 900, (fwd), and also a Volvo (rwd). They had similar power and weight, and similar (narrow) 15" tires. It made for interesting comparisons of driving techniques in snow. Both did well, but each required a very different technique.

What the hell are you talking about?
what were you drince in 2 ft of snow?
Any experienced driver here will agree with me that your statement is 100% false

I had a 325 that was horrible in snow or ice..I couldnt drive it. Stick with the x if you drive in snow..I couldnt even get up my driveway in teh snow and its not that steep..

yea but what tires did you have on.

dwathen also seems to share my opinion. Maybe you should stop trying to act like the authority on driving. There are other people which don't share your opinion and/or don't even appreciate what you write.