Congrats!!!


These cars would inspire me if I owned a Mustang....

http://57hemicuda.smugmug.com/photos...17_ZaCeU-L.jpg

http://57hemicuda.smugmug.com/photos...04_RYe7m-L.jpg

http://www.sportruck.com/events/sema...ormance/59.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w..._SFR_Mike4.jpg





Hope to see some updates as the project progresses. :)

Nice find - let me know if you need a hand with some wrenches on the 68, I learned a huge amount working on my 67 GTA and I have some good reference materials/manuals. You can bring it over and put it up on my lift if you want to check it out the underside.

Thanks for the input JCL. I usually count on things on being harder than they look. When I say easy, I meant relative to a lot of others being sold. Most of the cars being sold as projects are totally disassembled. So, I think this will be much easier. Maybe I shouldn't use the word MUCH.

I just finished inspecting the car and it is rougher than my initial thoughts - again I expected this especially from my first & last experience trying to buy a vehicle from ebay!

It has some rust on the bottom corner on a fender and some lower on the door. This doesn't bother me as much really as much as if the dang car is rotted out. Floor pans and rails look fine. However, I will definitely get a pro to take stock and advise.

I do want to make clear to everyone that I want to build a driver. I don't have the patience, money or desire to build a show car. I want a car that I can drive and enjoy when I want - not worry about getting it dirty. So, I don't like that the inner fenders are like that but - eh, I'll live.

I wish it was perfectly straight, no rust, etc. but for the money I got this it was a steal IMO. Just try and look for ANY year fastback and see what they're asking and note the condition they're in - its crazy (to me).

Here's something to think about, the shelby fiberglass kit costs approx. $3K to buy alone. Then you'd have to factor in installation. Well, to give you an idea of what you would think is a simple bolt on - the stock shelby hoods did not even fit great from the factory. I'm talking about the actual real shelby hoods and being put on the real shelby cars.

Now these shelby kits, people have had a nightmare trying to install the pieces. They need a lot of massaging. Well I saved myself, I think, most of that headache & cost. I'm just going to ask the body guy to do his best to prep for paint. From what I saw, I'm going to be happy enough.

Obviously, if I'm building a shelby clone, I don't really care about stock. Clone is also a loose intrepretation for me in this case. I want to build it the way I like. It won't be period correct, interior correct, etc like a real 68 shelby. I think I'll do the exterior pretty close to a real 68 Shelby (except the wheels). Interior I'm going to keep what's there and maybe change only the dash to the brushed aluminum and white face gauges (like Eleanor). I actually don't like the real shelby interiors.

Matter of fact, I prefer the 67 but again this was too good to pass-up.

Sorry folks for LONG post. :(

BTW ... JCL I love your posts. You always seem to be a voice of logic, reason and common sense - something I often lack.

Thanks for the offer! I'd like to meet up with you or talk over the phone and pick your brain - definitely.

I'd definitely like to come see your GTA! Is it a fastback too?

If you have any recommendations for a restorer or good body/paint shop that would be nice. I'm not sure if my worry is misguided or not but ... Do you feel I NEED to have a mechanic/body/paint guy that's familiar with these older mustangs? I'm mostly worried about the body/paint guy - I don't have one that I trust with this project. I don't mind paying extra for better work. It just needs to be balanced between quality vs cost for my needs.

I'm going to assemble/fix the car enough to pass inspection to get tagged. That way I can bring it to any shop conveniently w/o a time limit or worry about interstate travel. I'll use the temporary tags initially to get it inspected.

The car seems to run fine and I'm really surprised at the rumble of the 302. I think when it was rebuilt they changed the cam to something with more duration/lift. Also, the headers are the smallest pipes I've seen. Seems like they're 1/2 the diameter of the headers I had on my old goat. I got a lot to research but it'll be worth it.

I'll PM you later. :thumbup:

Here is a pic of my 67, not a fastback (I'm partial to convertibles) - a decent driver that has a fully upgraded drivetrain pushing 350rwhp. We can get together and I can introduce you to a buddy who is just finishing a 68 Mustang GT that he brought back to life from a rust bucket. Between the two of us we may either know who are good people to talk to or we have done it ourselves. PM me and we can get together, I want to check out your new addition.

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/x5ro...cture442-a.jpg

Nice car, I really like it but I agree that this may not be such an easy job. If I were you I would get the car inspected by somebody who is familiar with restoring ponies. He would know what to look at and that will give you an idea of the work and money you will need to put into it. The good news is that with cars of that age it is mainly basic mechanic and body work and you do not have to be concerned about electronic controls and sensors, etc.... I am with you in wanting to drive the car rather than making a show car. Keep us posted.

Car on the way ...
 

Here's a few pics of the car being loaded today. Leaving New York today and receiving it this Monday.
http://thumbnails24.imagebam.com/103...9103530199.jpg http://thumbnails14.imagebam.com/103...3103530246.jpg http://thumbnails17.imagebam.com/103...6103530245.jpg http://thumbnails23.imagebam.com/103...f103530248.jpg

Decided to register it for 'Street Rod' tags first so I don't have to worry about inspections and get a tag right away. Then I'll be able to move the car conveniently without towing it to the shop.

But before it gets on the road I'll do some safety checks like make sure the brakes work! :rofl:

I have to connect at least the brake lights and turn signals. Can't remember if the rear view mirror is attached or not.

Though, the very first thing I'm going to do is take lots of pics of the way I got it and document everything as I go along. I'll take pics and label each loose part.

For the engine I guess I should change the oil & check the plugs. It seemed to run fine before and no smoke of any kind (even revving it up a little).

Well, I got lots to do. Next update will be when I receive it on Monday I guess.

My first "victory" ... sequential tail lights
 

The car came with the Hotronics LS6 sequencer and the PG3A flasher in the box. The shelby style lights were not connected and not sure where to start.

Well, after a several hours of Mustang forum searching, interpreting the wiring diagrams and other stuff ... I got my brake lights, turn signals and flasher to work!

I know its probably no big deal to most of you but I'm not the sharpest tool in the toolbox! :rofl:

Here's a video on youtube:
YouTube - 1968 Mustang Fastback Sequential Tail Lights

Next up will be headlights, front turn signals and dash instrument clusters.

Lookin good! I saw a new mustang set up with sequenced tail lights the other day and it still looks good today.

Congrats - Did you get a service manual yet? They are gems to have and include all the wiring, mechanical and body parts/components and lay out the steps to remove and replace lots of items.