Thanks for your input Weasel, next week I will be going to Florida before I leave I will take the amp out and clean the pins with CRC Electric Contact cleaner, then use 99% isopropyl alcholol to get all the cleaner stuff out and to dry the pins. I'll let the amp stand vertical so the connecting end will be facing down to let any moisture leave the amp. I might even put some silica gel patches around the connector to speed the process up. Hopefully by the time I'm back from vacation the amp will be in better condition. I will also do the same for the pins on the connector that is in the car

**UPDATE** Need Help!

I am still suffering from this problem, my car speakers only work on the left side of the car. Cleaning the amp and the connector did not work. BMW cleaned the connector with their tools, so I'm almost confident thats not the problem. I ordered a brand new replacement amp and it still didnt solve the problem!!! Not only that but after I connected the new amp the rear speakers on the left side stop working too! So now only the speakers on the driver door works. I heard that some amps have to be coded, is that true? Will that cause my problem to go away?

First, your new DSP amp should be coded to fully work in your car. However, this problem is probably independent of coding.

The DSP amp has fourteen independent channel amplifiers, so when you see individual speakers going out like you are experiencing, it is a symptom of the DSP amp or your wiring. (If you had the entire right side or left side go out, it is possible that the problem could be the input.)

So, I believe that your problem is the amp or the wiring. Given that it worked for two years without issue, and then it has gradually started to fail, and you found corrosion in the plug, my hunch it is the connector on the car's harness. Since the primary symptoms did not change with the amp replacement-- in fact, they continued to degrade, your original amp was probably OK. You made the right decision, because almost every time the problem is the amp.

I would carefully disassemble, inspect, and clean the pins on the plugs feeding into the DSP amp. Those plugs snap apart, and you can remove each pin by using a small screwdriver to depress a spring clip. Just make sure that you reassemble the pins correctly. You can buy new pins and splice them into the wiring, if they look bad.

My amp is NON DSP, do those need to be coded as well? My original amp had corrosion look at the previous page and look at the pic i posted. I also took it completely apart and saw a lot of discoloration on the motherboard. As far as the connector goes, Tischer BMW used their "Micro-tools to get in those holes and clean the pins thoroughly. I looked in it with a flashlight and it looked clean. So if its not the amp or the connector, can it be an issue with the radio module?

Oh, I did not catch that. No, a non-DSP amp does not require coding. Though, the rest does apply. The non-DSP amp receives a four-channel input from the radio and then it has 10 independent output channels to the speakers.

The fact that you are losing an entire door's speakers at a time might be a sign that the problem is the radio. Or, it could the be the radio input wiring to the amp.

Okay, thanks for your input, the car is at Tischer currently and they are checking it out, if they charge too much I might just check the radio. On a non-dsp system with navigation, where is the radio located? What can I check to see if the radio unit is defective?

The radio is located in the trunk in every car with navigation. In the X5, it is next to the battery. Probably the easiest way to test the radio is to get a cheap speaker with a short wire pigtail and just directly touch the wires to each of the four channel outputs at the radio. If you get audio, then you know the radio is producing. Then do the same at the amplifier end.

BMW quoted me 1100 for replacement and installation and coded of the radio receiver, (I believe they are referring to the BM53?) I told them not to do it, seemed too expensive. Is it easy to just swap out radio receivers and it will work? Do they have to be coded as well?

They are coded, but it should work when plugged in before coding. If you source the parts yourself for cheaper and it works properly when you plug it in it would just be 1 hr charge at the dealer for coding if you choose to do so.

I see, well if you don't mind me asking, "What's the point of getting the radio coded if it will work instantly?" Does the radio perform better, sound clearer.?? Thank you