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#1
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Road Bike Question
How many miles does the tire last? (generally or average) How many miles does the wheel last? (Shimano R550) When do I need to replace the chains? do I replace them with the cassette? and crank rings? I've been wiping off the chain and cassettes every 70-100 miles and re-oil them. I hope that's good enough In addition, do you recommend cutting a carbon seatpost to save some weight and dimension issue? Since the seat tube can't retract fully into the frame. btw~ I customized a bike carrier in my X to carry the bike around~ if any of you are interested, I can post some pics~ thanks you guys for all the info! |
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#2
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Congratulations!
Check everything is tight, and lubricated. Check tire pressures every ride. Wear a helmet. (Threw that one in for good measure, mine has saved me) Tire life depends on the tire construction, pressure, and what it is rolling on. Tires are worn out when you start to get a lot of nuisance flats, usually because the tire is too thin. I have 1500 km on my kevlar-belted Bontrager Hardcase tires, and they are good for a lot more. I have Continental 4000 25C tires on my tandem, and they are reputed to last very well, but I don't have enough km to know yet. Wheels need to be checked for trueness (runout), and broken spokes. If they are true, and the spokes are tight (these two go together) then they are fine. Spin the wheel and hold a spoke key or metal against the spokes, listening for any that sound different. Chains are not a simple answer. Everyone has an opinion, and there is no right and wrong. I used to use lots of lube, often. Now, my road bikes don't go out in the rain so I use a dry wax-based lube and add it every second ride. Much cleaner. Chains are worn out when they are stretched. You can buy an inexpensive pitch gauge that tells you quickly, or you can use a tape measure (which is a hassle). If they are worn too far, you will have to replace sprockets at the same time. Get them early, and your sprockets may still be good. See the link for instructions. Can't help you on the carbon, I am 6'4" and have never had a seatpost that was too long. If you are cutting carbon there is a right way and a wrong way, IIRC. Ensure that there is sufficient length in the seat tube. Seems to me that a carbon seatpost is pretty light, not much weight to save. For basic maintenance, you might want to read Sheldon Brown. Sort of a grown up hippie cyclist, but some good articles, very down to earth. He has articles on tires and chains, among others. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/home.html Jeff
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2007 X3 3.0si, 6 MT, Premium, White Retired: 2008 535i, 6 MT, M Sport, Premium, Space Grey 2003 X5 3.0 Steptronic, Premium, Titanium Silver 2002 325xi 5 MT, Steel Grey 2004 Z4 3.0 Premium, Sport, SMG, Maldives Blue |
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#3
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www.bikeforums.net is the best message board for bike discussions and information. If there is a problem with Bikerforums.net, it has too many messages; some searches will retrieve pages and pages of information.
www.performancebike.com has a bunch of FAQs that are very useful. You'll find answers for your tire and wheel questions there. Cutting the CF seatpost is not a good idea without the proper tools and a respirator because the dust is pretty darn toxic. It's difficult to get a clean cut on CF because of the weave and the edges tend to splinter. You'll probably weaken the post's structural integrity as well. Best to leave it alone or trade it in for a shorter CF post. You're not going to gain that much in weight savings anyway. If you're going to cut weight, look at CF'ing other parts of your bike - handle bars, stems, saddles, etc. |
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#4
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I'm no bike pro, but I suggest checking your cables and such now. They do have a "break-in" period that allows them to stretch, and as a result they need to be periodically checked and readjusted.
My mountain bike is in for the break-in 100mi service as we speak. Thankfully, the first service is free. I just wish they could have provided a loaner car I mean bike.
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#5
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I have a mountain bike that I use on road. I like it better that way
![]() The original made-in-china crappy tires lasted maybe 500 miles before they broke down. Handling sucked, too. I bought a small air pump for the garage and it is a great investment. My new tires have a better rolling resistance on them, and have lasted about 1100 miles. I always make sure to spray down metal parts with WD-40/ dry bike lube, but I ride in the wet sometimes so it may differ for a road bike. Another tip, double check your brakes before each ride, and don't ride the brake or it might warp/overheat. The sub-standard disk brakes on my bike warped, and now they are about to fall off because the disk is bent. It is not fun. To save weight, don't cut the seatpost, replace parts with ligher weight ones, like adude said. This includes kick stand, water bottle cage, etc. Be safe!
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