Fair bit of body work there, I wouldn't call it an easy project. Take a look at the inner fender where the patch was welded in, and the other pictures. There isn't much that is straight there. Good luck with it.

Mine was a '66 coupe, 289. Rebuilt all the mechanicals, kept it stock except for a mild cam, bored over as little as I could. Did the engine and all ancillaries, automatic transmission, suspension, brakes, diff, and so on. Body was good enough to drive, but I never got it to show condition. Sold it before they started to really appreciate in value. My uncle had a very nice '69 Boss 351 with the shaker hood scoop and rear window slats. I have always liked Mustangs, the earlier the better. Personally, I would look for one that is truer to stock.

Edit: '69 Mach 1. It was a 351. Boss 351 was later. What was I thinking.

Attached Images

 

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2007 X3 3.0si, 6 MT, Premium, White

Retired:
2008 535i, 6 MT, M Sport, Premium, Space Grey
2003 X5 3.0 Steptronic, Premium, Titanium Silver
2002 325xi 5 MT, Steel Grey
2004 Z4 3.0 Premium, Sport, SMG, Maldives Blue

Thanks for the input JCL. I usually count on things on being harder than they look. When I say easy, I meant relative to a lot of others being sold. Most of the cars being sold as projects are totally disassembled. So, I think this will be much easier. Maybe I shouldn't use the word MUCH.

I just finished inspecting the car and it is rougher than my initial thoughts - again I expected this especially from my first & last experience trying to buy a vehicle from ebay!

It has some rust on the bottom corner on a fender and some lower on the door. This doesn't bother me as much really as much as if the dang car is rotted out. Floor pans and rails look fine. However, I will definitely get a pro to take stock and advise.

I do want to make clear to everyone that I want to build a driver. I don't have the patience, money or desire to build a show car. I want a car that I can drive and enjoy when I want - not worry about getting it dirty. So, I don't like that the inner fenders are like that but - eh, I'll live.

I wish it was perfectly straight, no rust, etc. but for the money I got this it was a steal IMO. Just try and look for ANY year fastback and see what they're asking and note the condition they're in - its crazy (to me).

Here's something to think about, the shelby fiberglass kit costs approx. $3K to buy alone. Then you'd have to factor in installation. Well, to give you an idea of what you would think is a simple bolt on - the stock shelby hoods did not even fit great from the factory. I'm talking about the actual real shelby hoods and being put on the real shelby cars.

Now these shelby kits, people have had a nightmare trying to install the pieces. They need a lot of massaging. Well I saved myself, I think, most of that headache & cost. I'm just going to ask the body guy to do his best to prep for paint. From what I saw, I'm going to be happy enough.

Obviously, if I'm building a shelby clone, I don't really care about stock. Clone is also a loose intrepretation for me in this case. I want to build it the way I like. It won't be period correct, interior correct, etc like a real 68 shelby. I think I'll do the exterior pretty close to a real 68 Shelby (except the wheels). Interior I'm going to keep what's there and maybe change only the dash to the brushed aluminum and white face gauges (like Eleanor). I actually don't like the real shelby interiors.

Matter of fact, I prefer the 67 but again this was too good to pass-up.

Sorry folks for LONG post.

BTW ... JCL I love your posts. You always seem to be a voice of logic, reason and common sense - something I often lack.