02 4.4L transmission removal
 

so, the dreaded trans prog error with slipping before locks into 4th gear. My ultimate goal is to rebuild whats in their now, but I've got a used one on my way to swap in.

Despite endless searching, I haven't seen a write-up on removing the transmission. Someone said the bentley covers the 3.0 which is different.

So, it seems to the following (not in this order)
remove exhaust
remove electrical stuff
drain fluid
disconnect front section from engine.
mark and remove drive shaft

anyone care to add proper steps or a good link?

many thanks in advance

I'm watching for a response to this also. There is a vendor on ebay that sells remans/with reman converter for 2700.00 shipped. I have that infamous shudder and hesitation when I take off. I have rebuilt a GM transmission with great success in the past. I used a video.

I did this two summers ago on my 4.4i (ZF 5HP24 transmission). I am happy to answer and specific questions.

I have the Bentley manual and followed that. It does show the A5S390R, but the steps seem identical.

I think If you are going to do something this big, you should buy/borrow/steal a Bentley manual. Yes, it is expensive, but this job is big and $100 is very well spent (and you can always sell the book on ebay later. There are tons of torque specs you will need, and lots of little details, so even if someone wrote out the steps, you should still get the manual.


Two big steps you left out -

1) The transfer case is bolted directly to the rear of the transmission - as part of the process to remove the front and rear drive shafts, you will have to support the tranny/TC and seperate and remove the TC. A good time to replace the chain if you have a pre-facelift car and/or replace the front driveshaft with the longer-spline version if you haven't done that already.

2) you will have to lift engine slightly to get access to some bolts, which requires disconnecting the engine mounts and steering rack (this is a bit complicated) and lifting the engine slightly and supporting it carefully. In lieu of this step, you can hire a circus contortionist to get to the top right bellhousing bolt.

Borrow/buy sets of torx and e-torx sockets and a set of e-torx ratcheting box end wrench (gearwrench style). You will need all these options.

I meant to add one more thing - use google to find some ZF distributors. There are a few big ones around. They sell factory rebuilt transmissions pre-filled with the expensive fluid and with a torque converter for around $3k. When I called them, they quickly dropped the price from $3600 to $3000 when I paused...you might even be able to do better. You do have to ship your core back.

How long did it take you?

Back in was one weekend day. Out had several delays as I wasn't prepared with all the tools. I had a 1-ton hoist (for the engine) but it is a little shorter than the 2-ton models, so I got a 2-ton from harbor freight and sold my 1-ton on craigslist. I think I also had to get a set of box end e-torx (in addition to the ratcheting version, it's getting a little fuzzy now) to access all the TC bolts and bell housing bolts.

Think also about how much clearance you will need - I didn't have them then but have since bought 10 inch tall race ramps and wheel cribs... It's a heavy vehicle to be working under with jury-rigged supports.

And plan on breaking an exhaust flange stud or two... Fixing that ate up quite a few hours.

thanks for the input David.

Bentley manual is on its way. Tranny be here Friday. Already own engine hoist, all the correct E things (rear bearings on a 7 series - what a pain).

Whats your thoughts on what another member did:

I can see that working. Definitely need the vehicle up high to get in there.

It would save you some trouble disconnecting things in the front, but try to think through what's going to happen as you tip the engine. I would remove the fan to protect the radiator and disconnect the coolant hoses. Perhaps unbolt the oil filter housing and power steering reservoir (1 or 2 bolts each) to avoid stressing those hoses. Loosen the nuts on the engine mounts so the engine can tip without stressing the pricey fluid filled mounts...

yea, this is the part Im most nervous about. New engine mounts. I don't want to screw something else up.

I'll update as I go through the process