Thanks for the reply. Answers below:

-This is just a single gauge for the low side.

-The compressor seemed to be running. (AC was set to Max and the clutch seemed to be engaged)

-outside temp was 75

Also have to add with the Max Ac turned on all it was getting was warm air through the vents. Maybe I should drive the car around for a bit to get it blow cold air before doing a pressure test.

It's just a guess, but I suspect your compressor didn't turn on and you are measuring the static pressure in the system. This makes more sense if the engine/compressor was warm (say around 90 F). You have to find a way to force it on or troubleshoot that problem first.

I remember reading on the booklet that came with the gauge that if the compressor does not turn on then fill half a can of refrigerant. Something about that did not feel right so I didn't do it. Maybe I'll first try driving the car around a bit till the ac starts blowing cold air and then verify pressure.

Yes, That advice is very generic and would apply only to a system where the pressure is so low the low-pressure safety switch keeps the compressor from operating.

If the pressure you reported is the static pressure, you have most (say half or more) of a proper fill. There is no way to tell if it is completely full from the static reading.

Just to be sure - are you aware the AC pulley turns all the time and the AC clutch engages the compressor drive only when it gets the right signal. The spinning pulley is not proof the AC is engaged.

Yes it's the inner disc/pulley that I was trying to see if it spinning and it looked like it was. I will try to move the car out of the garage to get more light and verify that again. Thanks for your help

My X5 i bought 2 months ago had identical symptoms. It turned out to be a loose connector on the low-side pressure sensor. Follow the low side pipe toward the front of the car and there should be a connector about 15-18" forward of the low-side port.

I evacuated my system and started to re-charge and it wouldn't take more coolant because the compressor never kicked on. I was about to 'hotwire' the compressor to engage it when i bumped the connector to the low-side pressure sensor and it fell off.

The o-ring was WAAAY too tight; it took about 100# of force to get it to finally click on and then my compressor kicked on immediately, and I was able to charge the system. I couldn't see the inside part of the AC compressor clutch to even tell if it engaged, but if the pressure is higher than about 55# the compressor didn't engage.

I ended up buying a full manifold pressure kit (to help with the evacuation and also future diagnosis and recharge of mine and family/friends cars; my last coolant can cost me $6.70 at walmart of all places; identical brand that is usually $15 elsewhere). $7 recharge on an AC, i'll take it.

I had some bizarreness (wow surprised that didn't flag misspelled) with my electric fan kicking in 'all the time' when requesting AC before I finally got my AC actually working and now it only kicks in when it needs it. Not sure what that was about or the cause, but if you noticed your engine cooling fan running fast 'for no good reason', it may be a symptom.

Check that sensor connector; disconnect, check for bent pins, test for continuity (look up if supposed to be open or closed), and re-attach that sucker. I had my engine running with demand for AC set, and i heard the compressor click on the second i pushed the connector on tight enough.

Got my fingers crossed for ya. Though i think i read 30-35# is the recommended pressure for a refill, apparently measuring the exact weight of recharge from empty is the only precise way to do it and i will be redoing mine soon before august hits us.

I recharged mine to about 40# (can't recall ambient that day but the dial gauge on my refil kit had an ambient adjust and ranged 35-45, and i actually went up and down through that range until I got the coldest air coming out the vent).

Just noticed you have an 06. Those will have the variable compressor and not the single speed unit like in my 01. Troubleshooting is a little different, but what we have all suggested remains true - those pressures suggest compressor isn't running for one reason or another v

Help with air conditioning
 

That is normal operation. There is a one-way valve in there somewhere to make it that way, it confused me the same way when i started my version of your process. To add more confusion; since my compressor wouldn't run, my 'low side' ended up at 90PSI even though it was really 40 maybe.



Everything i read from your posts indicates compressor not running to me. When i was 'at your stage' My next step was to hotwire the compressor to make sure the clutch engages, but i by insane luck happened to knock off the sensor wire connector that was causing the system to not run.



-awr