DSC Brake ABS lights plus....
 

Hi Everyone - I have a 2005 4.4i (N62 engine) w/ 75k. Here's what happened:

- 6 weeks ago, I'm driving along about 35 mph on a flat road and all of a sudden the truck momentarily hesitates for a split second and simultaneously the 4x4, BRAKE & ABS lights come on and at the same time the radio shuts off, screen goes dark and then the radio turns on by itself. I return home, shut off truck, restart a couple of hours later and everything is normal (no lights or warnings) and it stays that way until last week.

- last week, I'm driving the same way, about 35 to 45 mph, truck hesitates momentarily (I'm talking like for literally a split second) and again the 4x4, BRAKE and ABS lights turn on and radio shuts off and turns back on about 5 seconds later. I turn off car, restart and lights still there. Truck seems to drive normally. Next day, start truck - all lights gone.

- a couple of days ago, again I'm driving and this time only the 4x4 light comes on and this time the radio happened to be off but the navi screen turned black and then came back on. Also, this time, in the orange letters underneath the odometer, a warning comes up says "DSC/4X4 Inactive".

I had a guy who's a former BMW tech run a diagnostic (supposedly he has the bmw software, and he pulled the following codes.

*002A1D
*0029DD
*0051AD
*004F7A
*0000BD
*005F3A
*005DDO
*005F02
*005E52
*005E28
*005E44
*53FC

I realize there's a lot of codes and there's the usual posts about the 4X4, Brake & ABS lights coming up but I haven't found a post about the radio shutting down and restarting but itself.

Anyone have a clue as to what may be going on?

Thanks to all who answer.

Did you have a "generator fault code?"

Check either alternator or battery.

My understanding is this due to a spike or power surge in one of your accessories.

Your codes are very similar to the post below - I don't have a way to convert them all to the traditional BMW p-codes. The plastic transfer case actuator gear can be bought separately and replaced for $20 or so. I have an earlier version without xDrive, so can't offer any personal experience, but people report a clicking noise from under the car when you turn it off if the transfer case actuator is shot (it will be that $20 gear). There are youtube videos showing how to replace it and showing what it sounds like. X3 have the same problem.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...-inactive.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xEJbpVupuw

p.s. The radio can just be coincidential, or a wire is loose and the vibration of the DSC quiting is causing it to glitch. I would focus on the known issue and work on the radio second.

Thanks guys for answering.

I don't hear the clicking noise underneath the car so for the moment I don't think, at the moment, its the gear.

My guy thinks its the DSC Module but like many of the posts have indicated, it always turned out to be something else like a wheel sensor, alternator, etc. instead of the DSC module.

Apparently he didn't get any alternator codes but I'm not sure if he ran a battery test or the diagnostic he ran automatically checks the alternator.

Not sure how to proceed.

My suggestion:

Get yourself a PA soft 1.4 - diagnostic software and follow the steps on how to troubleshoot and look-up errors causing abnormal behaviour of your X5.


Check out this link if you want to learn the ABCs.

PA Soft 1.4 for Dummies

It's very user friendly.


:2thumbs:

The gear on the TC actuator is $20. You can test it by reversing it and see if it behaves (that will engage an unworn section). I would do that before throwing more expensive parts at it.

As Trader4 pointed out, multiple electrical problems can be a symptom of low voltage. Definitely put a volt meter on it (or unlock the cluster and use the built in voltmeter) and make sure you have 12.6V (or close) before starting it, and 13.7V (or so) with the engine running.

Unlock the OBC and see what your voltage is when the car is running, I bet you have over or under voltage and your Vreg on your alternator is taking a dump, IF you arent getting the actuator click.

Oh and btw your buddy with the BMW software would do you a friggin solid if he didnt just give you code numbers but the actual explanations of the errors and descriptions of each code which is visible in the scan he does with DIS.

Posting a bunch of numbers to us doesnt really show much at all, I have DIS software and don't even know them.

Ricky, I do have the print out for the codes and will post as soon as I get a chance.

In the meantime, I went to Advanced Auto Parts to get the battery/alternator test and here are the results:

Tested at battery -

Car off

Voltage - 12.64
Measured - 890CCA
Rated - 720CCA
Temp - 95 degrees

Starter Test:

Cranking Normal
Voltage - 11.99
Amps - 82.3
Time - 6s

Charging System Test:
No Load
14.31V
19.4A

Loaded
14.13V
12.0A

Ripple
23mV

At this point, I asked the guy to do the same test only this time, not on the battery, but in the engine compartment. I'm sure I read a post somewhere that someone's X5 got different results in the 2 places.

Tested in Engine Compartment -

Jump start post

Battery Test
Voltage - 14.38
Measured - came up blank on print out
Rated - 720CCA
Temp - 150 degrees

Starter Test
He bypassed it for some reason

Charging System Test

No Load
14.44V
No amp reading

Loaded
14.31V
no amp reading

Now, on the print out, it shows excessive ripple - 399mV. The guy said that perhaps because the negative was terminal from the diagnostic tool didn't seem to have a good grip on the strut tower bolt, that perhaps the reading is coming from the vibration of the engine shaking the negative terminal.

What do you guys think of the reading?

Also, if memory serves me correct, I changed the battery in March of 2013 with a BMW original battery.

Again, thanks to all who answer.

Here's all the codes descriptions per the codes listed in the original post -

002A1D -DME - Tank Fill Level; plausibility
0029AD - DME - Poor road surface detection
0051AD - No message, receiver EGS, transmitter DSC
004F7A - EGS: Signal from transfer box faulty
0053FC - VTG - Supply, control unit: terminal 30
0000BD - IKE - Electronic braking force distribution
005F3A - DSC - Transfer Case ; Malfunction
005DD0 - DSC: Control Unit, overvoltage
005F02 - DSC; Wheel-speed sensor, general
005E52 - DSC; Wheel-speed sensor, EMC front right
005E28 - DSC; Wheel-speed sensor, EMC front left
005E44 - DSC; Wheel-speed sensor, EMC right rear

Also, on one of the pages of the diagnostic, it says -

DIS Test Schedule
DSC - 5E44 DSC: Wheel-speed sensor, EMC, rear right - Fault not currently present
DSC - 5E28 DSC: Wheel-speed sensor, EMC, rear right - Fault not currently present
DSC - 5E52 DSC: Wheel-speed sensor, EMC, rear right - Fault not currently present
DSC - 5E02 DSC: Wheel-speed sensor, EMC, rear right - Fault not currently present

Wheel speed sensors - B3450_E60RADS

VTG - 53FC VTG: Supply, control unit: terminal 30 - Value too high - fault currently not present - fault would not cause (then paper cuts off)
VTG control unit, supply B2710_VGVERS
DSC - 5DD0 DSC: Control unit overvoltage - fault currently not present
DSC supply B3450_E83VERS
DSC - 5F3A DSC: Transfer case : Malfunction - fault currently not present
AWD control B3450_E83_VTG

Then on the last page there's some text -

B3450_E83_VTG / Fault 601

This fault code is stored in the DSC when the VTG signals a fault.

• Possible causes of the fault
  There may be a sporadic fault in the VTG - continuous troubleshooting the VTG
  No sensor signals (e.g. wheel speed from DSC) - check whether sensor fault codes are stored in DSC.
  Rectify fault codes stored in DSC according to tester instructions.

DIAGCODE: D3450_DSC0000B_90_903

That's all the info I have from the print out.

Please let me know what you guys think?

Thanks to all who answer.

I think.....

Did this happen when you're about to accelerate hard from stand still and at the same time you're air suspension is lowering/raising itself?


This is the reason.

005DD0 - DSC: Control Unit, overvoltage

Actually, thus far, everytime it's happened is when the car is in motion - traveling about 30 to 40mph, on a flat surface with a constant throttle. So far, it hasn't happened on the highway, going highway speeds

Update -

Earlier today, while driving about 30 to 40mph, same thing happened - truck hesitates and 4x4, brake and ABS lights go on and the radio shuts off and turns back on.

Later in the day, driving same speed, again moment of hesitation but this time only the 4x4 light comes on with the radio shutting off then turning back on.

Tonight, again driving same speed, a moment of hesitation - but now I figured out what the hesitation is. It's the ABS engaging momentarily. Even though my foot is on the gas pedal, it feels like I'm pressing the brake pedal for a second. So what's happening is while my foot is on the gas pedal, traveling 30 to 40 mph, the ABS is kicking in for a moment and when it releases, the 4x4 light, plus the brake & ABS light, and the radio shutting off and then turning back on.

Why the heck would the ABS kick in (or perhaps it's the DSC because the system thinks there's wheel slip?)?

What do you guys think?

I have had the DSC problem without the other effects (radio, etc) when a wheel speed sensor is going bad. The DSC applies the brakes trying to get the four wheels to agree, and when it can't make sense of the response (since it was a bad sensor) it triggers a fault and shuts down.

use DIS and clear faults. start from scratch, and read codes again. These might be codes that were stores prior to being read.

Do you hear a clicking when you turn off the car? audible outside of the car under the driver seat. If you hear clicking this would point to actuator gear. also code 5f3a was the same code i got for the actuator gear. I had a lot more codes present also prior to clearing it and rescanning. Once rescanned, only the code 5f3a was present. Do you have EHC2? You may also have SLS inactive message also if you have EHC2.

Change that gear!! it'll solve 80% of your codes! and its only 20 bucks! check out my threads on this.

I ran out of time, but wanted to add that you have codes for every possible wheel speed sensor. This is implausible. Likely to be transfer case gear screwing things up or DSC module crapping out (look for threads on that). Given the relative cost, and weirdness of your problem, the $20 gear should easily be first and then move to other issues.

Transfer case actuator gear.
 

I had this same issue, Its the transfer case actuator gear, a lot of places say you should change the actuator itself but the problem exist only with the gear, it gets worn out after time(cheap plastic part). I changed mine over 15 months ago and my car still runs good, i drive about 30 miles a day no issues here.
https://www.odometergears.com/produc...+1999-2010/132
http://www.amazon.com/Transfer-Motor.../dp/B00H2TD5IQ
I got the amazon one for 15$ lol runs good.:stick poke
Repair is really simple.

https://www.odometergears.com/howto/...ear_Repair.pdf

Well idk, that issue didn't allow my car to start anymore .. But I mean I'm just shooting out options.. Radio could be another issue

Charging voltage seems too high.

I would check every wheel sensor individually. Don't just visually check them, but test them individually with either a multimeter or bmw software. With the software it would be a lil easier.

After all your wheel sensors are fine and the problem still persist, then I would start looking for a new DSC module.

I agree with earlier posts to clear the codes and see what comes back, unlock the cluster and monitor voltage for spikes and get a battery load test done. Resting and running voltage is in the normal range.

I would keep troubleshooting. I wouldn't be buying parts yet.

13.8-14.1 volts is acceptable and the range at which the voltage should be while charging off the alternator. One of the recordings was up to 14.44 volts. Just seems a liltle high....

My alternator went out at 58k miles and caused many of the same kinds of issues. It was overcharging the battery. One of the codes you listed was for high voltage supply if I recall correctly. I'd chase the alternator a bit, though the transfer case actuator gear also sounds plausible. I haven't personally encountered that one, so can't speak to it, but the poster sounded pretty confident!

Update - as I stated in post #14, I had 3 separate incidents yesterday. Today, none. I pretty much drove the truck the same places I did yesterday but today the truck ran fine. One difference, even though it was very hot here in NJ, I didn't run the AC today. Not sure if that had anything to do with it? Not sure if it means anything but I figured I'd let you guys know the difference between yesterday and today.

[QUOTE=David.X5;1049566]The gear on the TC actuator is $20. You can test it by reversing it and see if it behaves (that will engage an unworn section). I would do that before throwing more expensive parts at it.

Another update - I was making a K turn a few moments ago and the ABS kicked in because even though my foot was on the gas I felt the car "jerk" like brakes got engaged and then the 4x4 light came on and radio shut on and off.

So, the steps were, I was in D moving forward, braked, put shifter in R, backed up, I put the shifter in D, pressed the gas peddle, the car started moving forward and then jerked (felt like brakes engaged then released - you know the sound when the ABS kicks in but the truck's moving forward) and then the 4x4 light came on with the radio shutting off then turning back on.

Assuming David, and the others, are correct who've said to start by changing the gear of the TC before getting into the expensive stuff, what would you consider to be a fair price for labor to pay to have the gear replaced.

FYI, I'm not mechanically inclined so I would have my guy do it. He's a retired tech from the local BMW dealer. I want to be fair to him but I don't want him to BS me either.

Thanks to all who answer.

I don't know what a retired mechanic makes per hour for side work. The dealers are getting $100-$125/hr. Planning on 1.5 hours seems pretty generous. You will have to buy the gear and take it to him - it is not a BMW part. The part is down to $11 now.

One source:
http://www.amazon.com/Transfer-Motor.../dp/B00H2TD5IQ

If you lived in Maryland, I would change it out for you just to find out if that is what is wrong!!

Guess it all boils down to what I originally said.. Hmm

1 - 1.5 hrs sounds about right for somebody experienced although removing the servo motor and re-attaching it to the transfer case are the easiest parts.
I did this job recently and getting the cover off the servo motor without damaging/warping it and then removing the C clip that retains the gear were not difficult but they are fiddly and time consuming tasks. I actually needed another pair of hands (wife) to get the C clip off.

Just to follow on from the previous post, the first symptom I had for the worn servo motor gear before any warning came up on the dash was that the car felt like it was hesitating when taking off from stationary, this was actually the brakes being applied by the DSC. As the problem progressed the trifecta of lights came up on the dash after the hesitation. After this point the car drove fine but it was effectively only driving the rear wheels.

Looks like my attack plan is going to be to first change the gear in the servo motor. As you guys have already indicated, its the cheapest way to go for now. Hopefully, that'll be the cure but if not, I'll move to next part. I'll let you know what happens once I get the gear installed.

One question I forgot to ask. Once the gear is swapped out and the motor reinstalled, does the truck need any software coding, resetting or recalibration?

Thanks

From what I've read, there are two schools of thought on this.
The instructions from various people "in the know" is that you don't need to have anything recoded provided you don't disengage the brushes/feedback sensor when dismantling the servo motor, basically they say to keep the black plastic piece that houses the brushes and fedback sensor with the motor armature and housing.
To me this seems to be pointless because the motor will turn when the new gear is fitted and you're unlikely to get the gear back engaged in the transfer case with the motor armature in exactly the same position.
I suspect it's mentioned just to make things easier so you don't have to worry about getting the motor brushes back in place.

I didn't bother getting mine recalibrated after fitting the new gear and so far there has been no adverse effects, and it appears to functioning properly.
I suspect there must be some type of automatic recalibration process the servo motor goes through when you turn the engine on/off otherwise it would not be able cope with wear and tear within the transfer case clutch.

Hi Everyone - I know it's been a while and it's time for an update. My truck has been still randomly throwing the "trifecta of lights" plus my radio would shut off and turn back on. Sometimes it wouldn't happen for a week and sometimes it would happen 5 times a day. Anyway, I finally ordered an alternator, a brand new Valeo (taking a chance at that starting point rather than the gear or the abs module). I finally had it installed today.

Hopefully, that'll cure the trifecta of lights. I'll be driving and update the posting to let you know what happens. Fingers crossed!!!!!!

Will be interested to see if that corrects the problem. Since it is intermittent doesn't seem like an alternator issue but hopefully it is. Good luck!

Update - it's been a week now with the new alternator. So far so good! No trifecta of lights and no radio shut off/on. Looks like the new alternator solved the issue.

Wait have you tried flipping the gear. Search for my threads. I fixed my trifecta by removing X drive servo motor. Unscrew electric actuator motor off housing, look through shaft and you will see gear. I bet your teeth are shaved. This is really common on our cars. Fix is free to try. I am years later still on flipped gear. So yea free just make sure you flip that shit 180. Mark it up before you disconnect actator from housing. Oh and don't worry. I accidentally took it apart hard core. I put it all back together and no coding or anything. It has just been working no issues.

Oh. Lol missed the alternator fixing it post. Good job.

Last update w/ the new alternator - still no trifecta of lights and/or radio shut off/turn on since my last posting. Looks like the new alternator solved the problem. I know many of us think that the actuator gear is the most likely cause but I guess in my case the radio shutting off and turning off is a clue that the issue is electrical - thus, the alternator.

Thanks to everyone who helped!

^Great job! Please mark SOLVED in the thread title and update the first post to let us know what the resolution was

Need your help. Have the same problem
 

Hi.
A have the same problem. Did you already solved yours? Can you tell me what was it? :thumbup:

The are several causes for trifecta. First step is to read the codes to point you in the right direction.