DSC Brake ABS lights plus....

[tomsawyer]

Hi Everyone - I have a 2005 4.4i (N62 engine) w/ 75k. Here's what happened:

- 6 weeks ago, I'm driving along about 35 mph on a flat road and all of a sudden the truck momentarily hesitates for a split second and simultaneously the 4x4, BRAKE & ABS lights come on and at the same time the radio shuts off, screen goes dark and then the radio turns on by itself. I return home, shut off truck, restart a couple of hours later and everything is normal (no lights or warnings) and it stays that way until last week.

- last week, I'm driving the same way, about 35 to 45 mph, truck hesitates momentarily (I'm talking like for literally a split second) and again the 4x4, BRAKE and ABS lights turn on and radio shuts off and turns back on about 5 seconds later. I turn off car, restart and lights still there. Truck seems to drive normally. Next day, start truck - all lights gone.

- a couple of days ago, again I'm driving and this time only the 4x4 light comes on and this time the radio happened to be off but the navi screen turned black and then came back on. Also, this time, in the orange letters underneath the odometer, a warning comes up says "DSC/4X4 Inactive".

I had a guy who's a former BMW tech run a diagnostic (supposedly he has the bmw software, and he pulled the following codes.

*002A1D
*0029DD
*0051AD
*004F7A
*0000BD
*005F3A
*005DDO
*005F02
*005E52
*005E28
*005E44
*53FC

I realize there's a lot of codes and there's the usual posts about the 4X4, Brake & ABS lights coming up but I haven't found a post about the radio shutting down and restarting but itself.

Anyone have a clue as to what may be going on?

Thanks to all who answer.

[jopecasa]

Did you have a "generator fault code?"

Check either alternator or battery.

My understanding is this due to a spike or power surge in one of your accessories.

[David.X5]

Your codes are very similar to the post below - I don't have a way to convert them all to the traditional BMW p-codes. The plastic transfer case actuator gear can be bought separately and replaced for $20 or so. I have an earlier version without xDrive, so can't offer any personal experience, but people report a clicking noise from under the car when you turn it off if the transfer case actuator is shot (it will be that $20 gear). There are youtube videos showing how to replace it and showing what it sounds like. X3 have the same problem.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...-inactive.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xEJbpVupuw

p.s. The radio can just be coincidential, or a wire is loose and the vibration of the DSC quiting is causing it to glitch. I would focus on the known issue and work on the radio second.

[tomsawyer]

Thanks guys for answering.

I don't hear the clicking noise underneath the car so for the moment I don't think, at the moment, its the gear.

My guy thinks its the DSC Module but like many of the posts have indicated, it always turned out to be something else like a wheel sensor, alternator, etc. instead of the DSC module.

Apparently he didn't get any alternator codes but I'm not sure if he ran a battery test or the diagnostic he ran automatically checks the alternator.

Not sure how to proceed.

[jopecasa]

My suggestion:

Get yourself a PA soft 1.4 - diagnostic software and follow the steps on how to troubleshoot and look-up errors causing abnormal behaviour of your X5.


Check out this link if you want to learn the ABCs.

PA Soft 1.4 for Dummies

It's very user friendly.

[David.X5]

The gear on the TC actuator is $20. You can test it by reversing it and see if it behaves (that will engage an unworn section). I would do that before throwing more expensive parts at it.

As Trader4 pointed out, multiple electrical problems can be a symptom of low voltage. Definitely put a volt meter on it (or unlock the cluster and use the built in voltmeter) and make sure you have 12.6V (or close) before starting it, and 13.7V (or so) with the engine running.

[tomsawyer]

[QUOTE=David.X5;1049566]The gear on the TC actuator is $20. You can test it by reversing it and see if it behaves (that will engage an unworn section). I would do that before throwing more expensive parts at it.

Another update - I was making a K turn a few moments ago and the ABS kicked in because even though my foot was on the gas I felt the car "jerk" like brakes got engaged and then the 4x4 light came on and radio shut on and off.

So, the steps were, I was in D moving forward, braked, put shifter in R, backed up, I put the shifter in D, pressed the gas peddle, the car started moving forward and then jerked (felt like brakes engaged then released - you know the sound when the ABS kicks in but the truck's moving forward) and then the 4x4 light came on with the radio shutting off then turning back on.

Assuming David, and the others, are correct who've said to start by changing the gear of the TC before getting into the expensive stuff, what would you consider to be a fair price for labor to pay to have the gear replaced.

FYI, I'm not mechanically inclined so I would have my guy do it. He's a retired tech from the local BMW dealer. I want to be fair to him but I don't want him to BS me either.

Thanks to all who answer.

[Ricky Bobby]

Unlock the OBC and see what your voltage is when the car is running, I bet you have over or under voltage and your Vreg on your alternator is taking a dump, IF you arent getting the actuator click.

Oh and btw your buddy with the BMW software would do you a friggin solid if he didnt just give you code numbers but the actual explanations of the errors and descriptions of each code which is visible in the scan he does with DIS.

Posting a bunch of numbers to us doesnt really show much at all, I have DIS software and don't even know them.

[tomsawyer]

Ricky, I do have the print out for the codes and will post as soon as I get a chance.

In the meantime, I went to Advanced Auto Parts to get the battery/alternator test and here are the results:

Tested at battery -

Car off

Voltage - 12.64
Measured - 890CCA
Rated - 720CCA
Temp - 95 degrees

Starter Test:

Cranking Normal
Voltage - 11.99
Amps - 82.3
Time - 6s

Charging System Test:
No Load
14.31V
19.4A

Loaded
14.13V
12.0A

Ripple
23mV

At this point, I asked the guy to do the same test only this time, not on the battery, but in the engine compartment. I'm sure I read a post somewhere that someone's X5 got different results in the 2 places.

Tested in Engine Compartment -

Jump start post

Battery Test
Voltage - 14.38
Measured - came up blank on print out
Rated - 720CCA
Temp - 150 degrees

Starter Test
He bypassed it for some reason

Charging System Test

No Load
14.44V
No amp reading

Loaded
14.31V
no amp reading

Now, on the print out, it shows excessive ripple - 399mV. The guy said that perhaps because the negative was terminal from the diagnostic tool didn't seem to have a good grip on the strut tower bolt, that perhaps the reading is coming from the vibration of the engine shaking the negative terminal.

What do you guys think of the reading?

Also, if memory serves me correct, I changed the battery in March of 2013 with a BMW original battery.

Again, thanks to all who answer.

[sckooby94]

I had this same issue, Its the transfer case actuator gear, a lot of places say you should change the actuator itself but the problem exist only with the gear, it gets worn out after time(cheap plastic part). I changed mine over 15 months ago and my car still runs good, i drive about 30 miles a day no issues here.
https://www.odometergears.com/produc...+1999-2010/132
http://www.amazon.com/Transfer-Motor.../dp/B00H2TD5IQ
I got the amazon one for 15$ lol runs good.:stick poke
Repair is really simple.

https://www.odometergears.com/howto/...ear_Repair.pdf