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CV Axle/Shaft DYI or not?

So when I got a suspension checked they noticed a CV boot was torn and dried out.

My question is what is the urgency on replacing this? Is this somehting I could do in my garage fairly easy? I mean I can get a CV/AXLE shaft what ever you wanna call it failry cheap around $150

Any suggestions or advise?

Quote:

Originally Posted by trader4 (Post 1051778)

Well there are two kinds of urgency. One would be that when a boot
first cracks, if you catch it in time, you can save the axle and just
replace the boot. If it's torn and dried out, sounds like you may be
past that point. Once water and dirt gets in, the joint itself will be
compromised.

The second urgency is how long you can keep driving it like it is
until it fails and you're stuck on the side of the road. That could
take months, a year or more.

If you have an original OEM axle, I think it's better to replace the
boot, when you can. And if you need to replace the axle, IMO there
are two choices. Buy a GKN one for $280 or get a rebuild from
CVJ axles in Denver. They only accept OEM axles as cores, so what
you get is a properly rebuilt OEM axle. For $75 to $150 at the
typical parts stores you're either getting Chinese junk new or a
rebuild of who knows what, ie it could be a rebuild of a Chinese
junk axle.

Something you can do easily? That depends on your skills. Besides
normal shop tools, jack, supports, etc you need a hub puller, I got
a loaner one from Advance Auto parts, the plate type, not the 3 hook
type. It also depends on if it all goes smoothly or you run into a
snag. Better have a 3/4" breaker bar and pipe to use on the shaft nut.

Well as a causual do it yourslef guy you think its worth save $3oo-400 or will it be a pain in the ass? From what Im told the boot has been torn for a few weeks or more and joint is dry

is the joint making noise yet?

Quote:

Originally Posted by puddinboo (Post 1051785)

is the joint making noise yet?

No I dont notice anything right now.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kado1976 (Post 1051781)

Well as a causual do it yourslef guy you think its worth save $3oo-400 or will it be a pain in the ass? From what Im told the boot has been torn for a few weeks or more and joint is dry

If making no noise just go ahead and fix the boot and repack the joint with grease.

Quote:

Originally Posted by X53Jay4.8is (Post 1051788)

If making no noise just go ahead and fix the boot and repack the joint with grease.

Thats what I thought, but a local shop said that would be pointless since its dried out a t the joint. Who knows maybe he trying to rip me off.

If the joint is exposed I'd replace it. Most likely you have gotten rocks and debris all up in there.

I'd do it very soon if not immediately if I were you. Plus better now then when the storm come rolling in.

As far as a DIY, they are pretty straight forward really. Just make sure you have something big to hit the end of the axle with in the event that it has become one with the hub.

You might want to check out this thread before making a decision or starting work on the car...

I've just replaced the LH outer boot - not a bad job to do and you may need less tools than you think. :thumbup:

It's pretty easy. I think it is much better to reboot good German axles than replace with cheapies. Lots of good YouTube videos. I used redline CV grease - it's a red moly product with a very high pressure and temperature performance: (data from redline)

Lubricant 4-Ball Wear Load/WearIndex
(ASTM D-4172B) (ASTM D-2783)
Red Line CV-2 0.46 71.1
Syn Grease - M 0.50 41.9
Syn Moly Grease - A 0.78 38.4
GM Wheel Bearing Grease 0.71 36.6

Lubricant 4-Ball Weld Drop Point
(ASTM D-2783)
Red Line CV-2 400 Kg 900°F+
Syn Grease - M 2 200 Kg 485°F
Syn Moly Grease - A 315 Kg 515°F
GM Wheel Bearing Grease 250 Kg 525°F