X5 Suspension Overhaul
 

Looking for some advice on what I should be looking at to do a "suspension overhaul" on my X5.

The vehicle is a 2003 X5 4.4 Sport with 2-axle air suspension. I've owned the vehicle since new. Currently, I'm close to topping 150K miles. Over the past 6 months I've had some "clicking" during hard turns and, as of yesterday, a left front clunk when going over bumps. So, it's time to address.

As I started digging into the clunk and click problems I decided to go back and look at what suspension elements have been replaced since new (warranty and otherwise). Essentially not much:

1. Both front air struts were replaced at 64K miles
2. Front control arm bushings were replaced at 72K miles (same clicking noise as I have now)
3. Front left side tie rod end at 80K miles
4. Rear left side upper arm ball joint at 102K miles

So that got me thinking, a 2003 with 150K miles... any rubber/joint that has been there since new is probably long past it's useful life and I may as well gut and replace everything.

So, with that in mind, I'm trying to get a list together of what I should replace, front and back and would like some advice on if my list is complete or not. Specifically, is there anything else you'd add in the vein of... "if I'm going to tear it all down, I may as well replace X while I'm at it"?

All Front Ball Joints
Front Lower Control Arm - Left and right
Front Sway Bar End Link - Left and right
Tie Rod Assembly
Integral Link With Integrated Bushing
Rear Shock Mount
Rear Lower Control Arm Bushing
Front Differential Bushing
Rear Subframe Bushing
Sway Bar End Link
Rear Upper Control Arm - Right and left
Upper Guide Link
Rear Differential Carrier Bushing
Rear Stopper Plate
All new hardware for the above items

So what am I missing?

You'll notice that the air struts are not included in the above. I'm debating these as they are currently not causing me any problems (not leaking). Of course this violates my "... while I'm in there" mantra, but they're also pricy and if they are holding air there is no point in replacing them until they stop holding air... right?

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Jett

correct. save money for actual item needing replacement.

PS: check out ECS Tunings website under the clearance section... put in your e53 year and see what they have for you.
I just bought a $120 tranny mount for $7 an dits official BMW brand.

Thanks. Yea.. I'm thinking about going for one of their "suspension kits". Seems to be the best place to go. Although I did notice that the sway bar bushings are not included... which is a bit odd, I think.

Any other input is welcome.

Try this link for more thoughts on kits
https://www.fcpeuro.com

+1 for fcp euro. They have decent prices but better yet they have great customer service and a lifetime warranty on all parts that they sell.

Just wanted to post some notes on this thread in hopes of helping someone else in the future. These forums are always a huge help with my DIY efforts.

I replaced the front end components with the FCP Euro 10 piece kit (Part #: KIT-E53CAKIT10PIECEMY). It includes control arms, ball joints, stabilizers and tie rods.

I was able to get all parts loose following the instructions from all of the DIYs out there EXCEPT for the ball joints. Mine wouldn't budge. I finally resorted to try to take the knuckle off so that I could use a torch and/or vice/BFH, but I didn't have the socket to get the 12 point spindle nut off. However, in the process, I did find a method that helped me.

Take the caliper off and zip tie up to the spring
Remove rotor (allen wrench bolt on the face of the rotor hub + about 10 minutes of rubber hammering from the inside)
Loosen dust shield (three 10mm bolts)
Spin dust shield 180 degrees which allows you to access the outside of the ball joint. In other words, you'll have access to hammer at the ball joint from the outside rather than on your back from under the vehicle. I used a metal chisel and chiseled the ball joint plate to separate it from the face of the knuckle. I did this on the inside first and then from the outside once I had access under the dust shield. You should be able to separate the ball joint plate about 1 mm from the inside, then 1 mm from the outside, then 1mm from the inside, repeat until your arm is too tired. I occasionally used a long nail punch to hit down on the ball joint at an angle next to the CV boot. It's also much easier to do this when the dust shield rotates and with the caliper out of the way.
Also be aware of how much better a 5# hammer is for this job than a 16oz hammer or even a 3# one. I started with a 3# and did the passenger side before remembering the 5# hammer.
Tools I needed:
36mm open end wrench or crescent wrench for the tie rod's inner nut
10-22mm sockets
torx set for the 2 ball joint bolts (can't remember the size)
pickle fork for sure
I bought the front suspension removal kit from Harbor Freight ($80) which had two different sized ball joint removal tools that saved me probably 50 swings of the hammer.
A big hammer. The bigger the better. 5# seemed perfect.
6mm allen wrench for the caliper bolt
Anti-seize compound for the ball joints so that the job is much easier after the next 75K miles. Remember that FCP guarantees their parts for life.

the clunk going over bumps is the swaybar link. i just changed mine and i didnt even have to jack up the car and take off the wheel

If you managed to remove the e-torx bolts securing the ball joint without stripping the head, you're already ahead of the game. I had to remove the knuckle on both sides and drill the remnants of the old bolts out after the head sheared.

I noticed the replacement hardware is a different design, with an internal torx.

Good tip of removing the ball joint from the knuckle.

+3 for FCP and their complete Lemforder front/rear suspension kit.

I don't recommend ECS's preassembled kits for the most part as they do throw in some random second quality aftermarket pieces in there sometimes

Heres your complete front/rear

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...e53-x520piecel