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X5 Suspension Overhaul
The vehicle is a 2003 X5 4.4 Sport with 2-axle air suspension. I've owned the vehicle since new. Currently, I'm close to topping 150K miles. Over the past 6 months I've had some "clicking" during hard turns and, as of yesterday, a left front clunk when going over bumps. So, it's time to address. As I started digging into the clunk and click problems I decided to go back and look at what suspension elements have been replaced since new (warranty and otherwise). Essentially not much:
So that got me thinking, a 2003 with 150K miles... any rubber/joint that has been there since new is probably long past it's useful life and I may as well gut and replace everything. So, with that in mind, I'm trying to get a list together of what I should replace, front and back and would like some advice on if my list is complete or not. Specifically, is there anything else you'd add in the vein of... "if I'm going to tear it all down, I may as well replace X while I'm at it"? All Front Ball Joints Front Lower Control Arm - Left and right Front Sway Bar End Link - Left and right Tie Rod Assembly Integral Link With Integrated Bushing Rear Shock Mount Rear Lower Control Arm Bushing Front Differential Bushing Rear Subframe Bushing Sway Bar End Link Rear Upper Control Arm - Right and left Upper Guide Link Rear Differential Carrier Bushing Rear Stopper Plate All new hardware for the above items So what am I missing? You'll notice that the air struts are not included in the above. I'm debating these as they are currently not causing me any problems (not leaking). Of course this violates my "... while I'm in there" mantra, but they're also pricy and if they are holding air there is no point in replacing them until they stop holding air... right? Any thoughts are appreciated. Jett |
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#2
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PS: check out ECS Tunings website under the clearance section... put in your e53 year and see what they have for you. I just bought a $120 tranny mount for $7 an dits official BMW brand.
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I swear, my cars are like a girlfriend. Sometimes its a rough ride, sometimes its smooth motorin'. Sometimes she doesnt like how i treat her and sometimes i dont like how she behaves. BUT at the end of the day, she loves it when I am inside her. _______________________ '91 850i '05 X5 4.4i '09 Clubman S |
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Any other input is welcome. |
#4
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Try this link for more thoughts on kits
https://www.fcpeuro.com
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2005 X5 4.8IS The Blue ones are always FASTER.... Current Garage: 2005 X5 4.8is 2002 M5 TiSilver 2003 525iT 1998 528i Former Garage Stable Highlights 2004 325XiT Sport 1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green 1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package 1969 Road Runner 383 1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green |
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+1 for fcp euro. They have decent prices but better yet they have great customer service and a lifetime warranty on all parts that they sell.
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02 e53 X5 3.0i Manual Trans 13 e70 X5 xDrive35i 04 Honda S2000 |
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Just wanted to post some notes on this thread in hopes of helping someone else in the future. These forums are always a huge help with my DIY efforts.
I replaced the front end components with the FCP Euro 10 piece kit (Part #: KIT-E53CAKIT10PIECEMY). It includes control arms, ball joints, stabilizers and tie rods. I was able to get all parts loose following the instructions from all of the DIYs out there EXCEPT for the ball joints. Mine wouldn't budge. I finally resorted to try to take the knuckle off so that I could use a torch and/or vice/BFH, but I didn't have the socket to get the 12 point spindle nut off. However, in the process, I did find a method that helped me. Take the caliper off and zip tie up to the spring Remove rotor (allen wrench bolt on the face of the rotor hub + about 10 minutes of rubber hammering from the inside) Loosen dust shield (three 10mm bolts) Spin dust shield 180 degrees which allows you to access the outside of the ball joint. In other words, you'll have access to hammer at the ball joint from the outside rather than on your back from under the vehicle. I used a metal chisel and chiseled the ball joint plate to separate it from the face of the knuckle. I did this on the inside first and then from the outside once I had access under the dust shield. You should be able to separate the ball joint plate about 1 mm from the inside, then 1 mm from the outside, then 1mm from the inside, repeat until your arm is too tired. I occasionally used a long nail punch to hit down on the ball joint at an angle next to the CV boot. It's also much easier to do this when the dust shield rotates and with the caliper out of the way. Also be aware of how much better a 5# hammer is for this job than a 16oz hammer or even a 3# one. I started with a 3# and did the passenger side before remembering the 5# hammer. Tools I needed: 36mm open end wrench or crescent wrench for the tie rod's inner nut 10-22mm sockets torx set for the 2 ball joint bolts (can't remember the size) pickle fork for sure I bought the front suspension removal kit from Harbor Freight ($80) which had two different sized ball joint removal tools that saved me probably 50 swings of the hammer. A big hammer. The bigger the better. 5# seemed perfect. 6mm allen wrench for the caliper bolt Anti-seize compound for the ball joints so that the job is much easier after the next 75K miles. Remember that FCP guarantees their parts for life. |
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the clunk going over bumps is the swaybar link. i just changed mine and i didnt even have to jack up the car and take off the wheel
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***The post above should be taken as the opinion of THE VEIN and should not be viewed as a representation of XOUTPOST.com***
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#8
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If you managed to remove the e-torx bolts securing the ball joint without stripping the head, you're already ahead of the game. I had to remove the knuckle on both sides and drill the remnants of the old bolts out after the head sheared.
I noticed the replacement hardware is a different design, with an internal torx. Good tip of removing the ball joint from the knuckle.
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12 E70 3.5i xDrive 03 E46 330i ZHP 01 E53 3.0i 98 E36 323is 12 Audi A4 Quattro 79 Triumph Spitfire 73 MGB |
#9
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I don't recommend ECS's preassembled kits for the most part as they do throw in some random second quality aftermarket pieces in there sometimes Heres your complete front/rear https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...e53-x520piecel
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2018 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins 68RFE 19k miles -Bright White/Black - Big Horn Sport - Crew Cab Short Bed 2013 X5 35D (CEO's) - Born on 5/17/2013 - 82k miles - Alpine White/Cinnamon Brown/Premium Pkg, Sport Activity/Premium Pkg and Sound/20" Style 214/Running Boards |
#10
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You have air suspension, so a bit diff from standard but there are many tricks for front and rear overhaul.
I wrote a few DIYs for E39, see links below... E39 FRONT... DIY: 1998 BMW 528i COMPLETE FRONT SUSPENSION OVERHAUL - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums E39 REAR... DIY: 1998 BMW 528i Complete REAR Suspension Overhaul - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT |
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