HELP Jumped Started X5 and low beam ALC DONT WORK
 

Hey guys I really did try searching before posting a thread but I haven't found anyone with this issue. I have a 06 X5 4.8is was sitting for about 2 weeks and the winter hit I tried turning it on and it was completely dead no juice at all. So I tried jumping it and it didn't work it would click and everything would flicker. I charged it for like 10 minutes and it kinda wanted to start but wasn't strong enough so I charged the battery for about 5 hours in low charge and perfect turned on great but now the Head Lights hid low beams and high beams hid don't turn on. The High beam center non HID turn on but not the ALC. I checked all fuses and all are ok and unplugged all fuses and battery for a few minutes to try and reset and nothing. I got the steering angel 4x4 sign but That came off as soon as i turned the steering wheel both ways to reset it.

What's weird is that the driver side hid bulb did turn on but after like a few minutes of the truck Beeing on and I would turn the switch on and off and driver side finally turned on. The passenger never turned on. Today I tried again and now it doesn't turn on at all again. Both Angel eyes turn on.

Anyone have had this issue? Thanks everyone

Never jump start these trucks, either replace a dead battery or charge the battery and try to start it from battery in the trunk.

You might have a couple of bad ballasts if the HIDs are not turning on.

BMW electronics can do weird things when battery is low or dying. I suggest you unlock the cluster to check battery voltage and watch realtime alternator activity. Depending on the charger 5 hours may not have fully charged the battery.

Man this sucks, well I guess you live and you learn and now I know not to jump it ever. I'm going to work on it tomorrow and keep you guys updated Thanks

If your battery went dead in two weeks, either your driving distances are not enough to keep it fully charged or it is weak/dying and won't hold a charge. So I agree with the posts above - replace the battery with a good one. Make sure it is fully charged and then perhaps the X will come back to life.

If your drive is long enough to charge the battery (so it should have been fully charged two weeks ago), then completely charge your battery and test the alternator as well as the battery's ability to hold its charge. You also might have an excessive drain somewhere, which will be fun to trace but necessary to prevent recurring - if both the battery and alternator are good.

I agree. I've jumpstarted many an e53, including my own, and it's not something that (done properly) should cause an issue. I'd start with diagnosing the battery as suggested and move from there.

Most people don't know how to properly jump start a car. The worst offenders are the one that hook up the cables incorrectly. The other people are the one that hook up the cables and immediately try to start the dead car instead of using the good car charging system to revive the dead car battery. Electrical spikes is what kills the X.

Fair enough and agreed.

Depending on what else is not fumctioning, the low voltage may have put the X5 into the "transport" mode. Fully charge the battery, then disconnect the ground to battery for a couple of minutes and then reconnect. If that fails use a diagnostic tool (DS1 or similar) and follow instructions to return to normal. If tool is not available, good indies that specializes in bmws have the tool and normally will reset for the diagnostics fee. Agree that these computer heavy cars dislike any fluctuations from a fully charged battery voltage, anything is possible, front requiring simple resets to module failure depending on how the car feels.

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I actually disconnected the positive side of the battery for a a few minutes hoping to clear it out. Will it make a difference if I disconnected the positive instead of the negative ??

I've been driving it all weekend and starts right up fine and no lights in the cluster or any issues just the headlights don't work. Been driving it with the fog lights at night.

I would either replace a bulb or replace a ballast to see if the light come back.

Same. You could also check for +12v at the ballast just to be sure they are getting power sent to them by the LKM.

It should not make a difference, but sometimes these newer BMW's are a bit picky. It may take more than a a couple of minutes to allow the control module to reset. Find a DS1 owner nearby and have them try a forced reset, good Indy should have one, hopefully the light control module is not toast, $$$, follow above instruction to check for voltage, usually only one HID ignitor fails at a time.

2002 X5 4.4, 88 M6
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If you are back probing the ballast be careful because that ballast has High Voltage.

Yes, for sure. Should have mentioned that. Be sure you are probing the correct wire(s).

I haven't looked at an ETK for the electrical system on an e53 but perhaps a relay is to blame if both headlights are down? I imagine the LKM would trigger a relay to then send voltage to the ballasts?

Ok so the tech that's helping me said that it's the Light Control module that it's not sending any signals to the ballast but I'm confused I'm searching for the light module for this truck and I'm getting head light hid ballast
Truck is a 2006 x5 4.8is with adaptive alc head lights

I really don't want to buy a module and it be the wrong guy so I'm
Begging for your assistance guys

Thank you

Light Kontrol Module aka LKM.

Ok so I misunderstood him, tech told me that the "Light Check Module" is what is not sending any signal. Could this be ?? Here is an image of it

Hey guys so I just wanted to give you guys an update. It's real simple DO NOT JUMP START BMW X5 at all just don't do it. This little issue cost me a lot of money that I should have never have spent if I would of checked out this forum before jump starting the truck. So the arc from jumping it managed to burn right side of HID headlights. The main problem was the LCM- Light Check Module that is under the passanger floor panel. It messed up the power signal for the passanger side system and it also burned the passanger HID BALLAST. So lucky me I did not buy anything new an another member was parting one out And bought the LCM and Ballast. It was still expensive but way cheaper then the dealer. I have a 2006 4.8 is model

So fixed that problem but messed up something else. I asked my tech about adjusting my ride height with the INPA system and he said his program was pretty good and he could adjust the height and check each side and what not it's a cool awesome system. Again my air suspension was working fine. So he hooked up his system called " MaxiSys Smart Diagnostic " and he was able to lower and it asked you what size wheels we had and how much we wanted to adjust the height and we raised and lowered it was cool but then the whole system shut down. You can hear the compressor turning on but the system will not function at all anymore. All the 4 bags are completely empty and sagged and the system just doesn't read the truck at all anymore. He lowered it but as soon as he was done and unplugged it the air suspension went dead and tried everything and can't figure it out. IDK THIS TRUCK is driving me crazy honestly :(

Here is the tablet

Another one

I love how it looks tho lol

Just curious...because reading thru the thread I didn't see it mentioned...but when you initially jumped the battery...was it a direct hookup to the battery or did you use the remote jump start terminals in the engine bay that appears to be the recommendation in the owners manual provided by BMW?

And as mentioned earlier in this thread...one should follow a specific order when hooking up jumper cables...which is laid out in the instructions in the owners manual. Then the reverse order should be used when unhooking the jumper cables:

• Positive to donor car
• Positive to car being jumped
• Negative to donor car
• Negative to car being jumped

BTW, I would also recommend any time you want to disconnect power or uninstall the battery...always remove the NEGATIVE battery cable first, then the positive cable (if uninstalling). Then reverse that order if reinstalling...positive first, then negative cable last.

I did exactly what you just posted in the front engine bay it's super obvious once you open up the hood you see both negative and positive. Maybe it was my cheap jumper pack I don't know but just I wouldn't recommend it to anyone.

Thanks for that update. Again, I only asked because I didn't see it mentioned...and unfortunately there are lots of BMW owners that are unaware of the remote terminals in the engine bay. 👍