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No one has posted they think it a good idea to remove the battery cables and run the engine on the alternator. No one has said the voltmeter is not the best way to check the electrical system. FYI, I liked the phrasing of your initial posts much better than your most recent ones. |
Update
Battery out of car tested at terminals was getting a read of 10-11 volts.
Throwing on trickle charger. Date on battery says Aug 09 ! Haha Now Im hoping my alternator didn't get killed trying to drive half way home yesterday. If battery charges enough to start car I will do a running test. Can i test at the front jump location while running ? Or does it have to be terminals Or if someone would explain the obc. The online directions are misleading bcz I only have one knob no right knob... And when I get to the test number for battery volt it goes back to main temp and info |
If its that old I'd just get a new battery
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Did you go agm battery? And would I be fine getting an autozone or napa auto battery? |
Anything is better than the old and mostly dead one you have now. I got the Bosch AGM from Pep Boys since I had a coupon code and a mail-in rebate, you'd be fine with Autozone or Napa, just get the most cold cranking amps you can get.
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[QUOTE=Ricky Bobby;1062680]Anything is better than the old and mostly dead one you have now. I got the Bosch AGM
Current one I just took out was bosch. I'dk where I could get one locally. There is no pep boys around me. |
I don't have a pep boys near me so I bought an Orileys battery, had more CCAs than Napa or Autozone. Just get the most powerful one that is local and you'll be OK.
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Nice. I looked at orielys. Still looking around. Thanks for the help. |
[QUOTE=dabenthusiast;1062681]
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