Put some water soluble lube on those o-rings prior to install. I've done exactly the same type of thing, pinching those o-rings.

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Did you do the "Crimping" procedure on the vanos? I think you are supposed to drive it 200 miles for them to break in according to the instructions. I don't know if that is your problem. Also, your computer will be in "learning" mode.....adjusting for optimum fuel air for your various rpm vs. airflow tables.

Do you feel more power at the lower rpms? Any rattles at all on start up? Glad you got past those coolant issues!

its very easy to be out a tooth that will set off the SES light. Put the scanner on it and see what code comes up. Sometimes it just one vanos bank and if need be you can adjust the degree timing wheel on the vanos to get it to work.

@Spanker - so I ended up not touching the VANOS units. Mine don't make any noise, and dealing with the timing frankly freaked me out. So I replaced the main timing chain, and left it at that. I know it's not ideal, but frankly I was already scared just starting it after putting it back together. However, everything seems to be running fine.

It's a bit sluggish at low RPM, but I remember this engine is always happier higher in the rev range. I know it sounds weird, but there is definitely a pickup in power around 2500RPM. Since the battery was disconnected for over 30 days, I'm guessing there will be a period of learning. Any idea how long this will take?

I'm having an issue with my scanner. I've always used Carly for BMW, both Android/iPhone, and while it can scan everything it cannot scan the engine computer. Don't know why, it just can't. So I need to find out what kind of scanner to get to read the engine codes. I'm hoping it's just something tiny and easy...but knowing my luck I'm not holding my breath.

Everything seems to be running fine otherwise. Temp gauge has been fine for the past 2 days, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed there too. All told, I'm happy to get my X5 back!

I stopped by the local O'Reillys on the way home today. They were able to check the codes, and they came back as P0011 and P0021. Based on what other have said, it appears I somehow did not get the timing back on correctly. I used the Bimmer Tool Rental kit and followed the directions on how to set everything up. Since I didn't remove the VANOS or the upper timing chains I didn't think I had anything to worry about. I re-timed everything with the camshaft blocks in place, the piston at TDC and used the pin in the flywheel. I'm confused as to what I could have missed. But...that doesn't appear to have been my luck! I had them clear the codes and I'll wait for them to come back. After driving for a few minutes after getting them cleared they didn't come back, but I'm not holding my breath.

So, seems like the only option is to take the covers back off and re-time them? If I'm not mistaken, that means taking the whole front back off including the lower timing cover? Or is there a much easier way to go about fixing this oopsie?

Who knows, maybe I'll be an expert at ripping into this thing by the time I'm done. My other question is, apart from the slightly rough idle it runs fine. Is this something I can drive on for 3 weeks until I get into my house and have plenty of room and all my tools to dig in again? Or...is this a park it until then?

Yeah the timing is out just a little

If you have to retime it.......you DO NOT have to take the lower timing cover off. Just the left and right uppers. Some have said the little timing wheel may need adjustment only and that the timing tools are foolproof if the camlocks did not lift on you. You can do quick check of the little timing wheel by looking
through the upper timing cover inspection hole.
When I did mine, I removed the cam and flywheel locks and rotated the engine a few times and rechecked it. It was off due to chain movement. I did it again until I was able to get a consistent reading.

@Spanker - This is why I'm so confused. I used the Bimmer tools to set the timing wheel adjustement and yeah, they seemed pretty idiot proof. They only connect one way and they're specific to each side. The cam locks were on, and as far as I can tell were on correctly in that nothing was actually moving.

I'm not familiar with the timing cover inspection hole...I'll have to see what I can find and how to check this. It doesn't appear my timing isn't off by much since it's generally running OK but clearly the computer thinks it's off. I'm curious, if the wheel is off by a bit will this cause the rough idle problem because the computer is trying to compensate to what it thinks is happening?

YUP!!!

search on youtube regarding that inspection hole in the upper timing cover for the 4.4i. Its not terribly accurate, but if you are off a bit, it will be obvious.

@Spanker - So they hope here is that the timing wheel is off just a bit causing the computer to adjust timing to match being the issue. That would be much better than having to take everything back apart and re-time it! I was kind of surprised at the process to put the timing wheels back on, it didn't seem as accurate as I would have liked. Am I the only one that thinks this?