And you need to buy/rent/borrow a crank holding tool to counter hold the crank to get the main "Jesus bolt" out.

Man, I'm digging this project. Glad to see someone else dive into this engine head first!

Yes Uro parts are the cheapest in every regard. Stay away from them

@TECN1K - Yeah, guess I'm lucky! It was showing that way for me for 2 days, guess I was just the lucky one? I'll take it! This is straight from my order:

Crankcase Vent Pipe - Return ES#19632
A genuine replacement from BMW
11157520742
1 $11.89 $11.89

@David - Thanks for the heads up on the crank holding tool. I'm thinking the local O'Reillys or AutoZone would have one of those? Or, is it a special tool just for our crazy Germans? I was also debating the heater hoses. I just replaced the engine inlet hose, which will now be much easier to access...grrrr. Although, if I hadn't been lazy I would have taken the intake off for it and probably seen the impending disaster. I'll also double check the seals for the timing cover and make sure I have those. I don't recall seeing any of those in my list.

I ran into the first WTF? BMW moment last night. I was removing the rear skid plate, and was shocked and appalled to realize they use friggin nuts?! WHO USES NUTS ON A SKID PLATE?! Yeah, tweak a freaking 17MM wrench around steel parts to hold it...man that pissed me off. Everything else I've wrenched on, GM/Jeep/Toyota/Land Rover, all used welded nuts or just threaded into the frame.

Also, while taking a look underneath (man I need to clean it!), I noticed the Climate Control sensor (64116917001) just resting on the A/C pulley. Apparently there are two blocks on the fan shroud. One for an electrical connection and a spot on top for this sensor. Well, the mount for the connector is gone so it has nothing to connect to and the mount on the sensor is broken so they just let it all fall. How the fan never ate that sensor I have no idea but you can see chewing up of the sensor by the A/C pulley. The more I learn the more I want to find the PO's and beat them with a wet noodle.

I'm hoping to get all my parts before next Friday. I have a 3-day weekend then and I'm hoping to get all the work done. Between now and then I'll be cleaning and getting ready!

On a positive note, I did get the drivers side headlight cleaned up! Before and after. The before shot isn't so great to show how bad it was.

Crap! Forgot the intake manifold gaskets! Why they don't show up through a search on either ECS or FCP I don't know. But, got the PN# from RealOEM.com and just ordered them.

Glad I found out now!

Again, I recommend Dr.Vanos - the gaskets and orings for the sprockets are a pain in the ass.

M62TU V8

You can rent the tool here, lol no, not at Auto Zone. I can't imagine the look you'd get from the dork behind the counter if you asked.

https://www.germanautosolutions.com/..._cam_tools.php

Bro this is not a job for the faint of heart - you're about to gut your motor :P

Read over the entire Beisan teardown procedure. Like 12 times.

Beisan Systems - Procedures - M62TU Vanos Procedure

@TECN1K - I'm still conflicted. Getting the VANOS rebuilt by DrVANOS is easier and less error prone, but $500 instead of $80 is a big difference. I'm going over all the Beisan procedures now and maybe that will help make up my mind. I've never worked on engines as complicated as this. Old Jeep 6 cylinder and GM 3800's are not quite like this.

David mentioned the crank holding tool, would this be the flywheel locking tool? For the VANOS I was going to rent the kit from BimmerToolRentals. However, I may just look at getting the kit from GAS since I intend to have this vehicle for quite a while. Long enough I may decide to rebuild things again. Even just getting the Pro kit allows me to do one side at a time, and it seems like this would have everything?

My bigger concern besides me doing this, is that I'm going to open her up and discover gross neglect and destruction. Then...we'll see what happens then.

I didn't see the crank holding tool to rent. It looks like this. You can find them online for $60-$80. There are a few different brands.

I am willing to lend my crank holding tool if you pay shipping and send a deposit; the deposit I will return when the tool comes back. PM me if you want to do that.

Yeah, the aluminum reinforcement plate is crazy. I'm a little curious about your bolts. Mine all use 16mm sockets/wrenches. The stock BMW bolts are said to be 1-time use (It has a torque-angle spec - the book says 41 ft-lbs plus 90 degrees) and the price has drifted up from $4 each to $13 each. There is a whole thread on this - http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...olts-nuts.html

The flywheel holding tool is a special pin. Fits through the aluminum bell housing and into the flywheel. It is not meant to resist the torque needed to get the main bolt out. Its to hold timing.

The main pulley (with damper) is made in two parts - remove the 6-8 bolts holding it together, remove the outer part, and install the holding tool on the nub that is left behind. Either counter hold it with a cheater bar, or position it on the frame rail avoiding crushing any wires or hoses. Then figure out how you are going to turn that 400 ft-lb mama-jama nut. A 3/4" drive breaker bar (which is around 48" long) works good!

David - OK yeah, I'll see if I can find that part online. I'm still debating about the GAS tool and may just get that instead of renting. Yeah renting is cheaper, but there's something to be said for having all the parts/tools and not having to work on a timeline.

Also, screw that. I'm going to re-use the bolts. They hold on a freaking plate. A simple plate. Holy crap BMW get your head out. However, yes you are correct, I do believe they're actually 16MM not 17MM like I had said.

On a related note, what's a good degreaser to spray? The entire engine is COATED in oil and grime and I'd like to get it cleaned up before I start digging in. I have heard that Simple Green is good, other options? I can't use a hose to hose it out so I was looking for something I could spray and let sit and then rinse off with a spray bottle or wipe off.

Getting the VANOS rebuilt (lets say from anyone online) just saves you the steps of rebuilding your VANOS sprocket (with the crazy pressing and fishing out of seals you can't see) - you are still doing all the removal and installation yourself and have to figure out all the crazy tools and set the timing right. If $500 let you avoid the whole procedure, it would be worth it, but it just lets you skip the rebuilding step.