Welcome!

I have not had personal experience with a 4.8. I have actually owned a 4.6. I am not posting perceptions. I bought mine new. I have modded it a bunch, tried to beat it to death and it is still going strong after 115,000 miles. I have not experienced a high cost of ownership.

After 50 years of asking for input of a plus and minus comparison of products and ideas I have found the negative list will always be many times longer than the positive side. If you delve into the negativity you will find that the percentage that can be verified is much less and can be prevented. If the same people are in several different sessions there will be some that never have a positive contribution. Ask yourself the question, what are they driving and if they will never buy another X5 why do they still own the one they have?

If by best condition you mean lowest miles, most complete history, one or two owners etc, you are on the right track.

If you want an E53 X5 you should really steer clear of 4.4-4.6 & 4.8...major engine issues that cost 15-30K to repair at dealer prices. If you buy one chances the seller is selling it because of issues.

The 3.0 is the best engine but they have the usual cooling problems and are under powered. I have both a 4.4 and 3.0...no way in the world I would buy another....not even a brand new one with pulley problems of the 5.0.

The X5's are not the reliable 3's 5's and 7' of the same year.

bcredliner - You got it ;). No point in having a shiny one thats falling apart with 300k on it !


rockit - No point in me having an underpowered vehcile though as I wont be able to tow with it. Id rather have a bigger engine with less strain on it rather than a smaller one struggling and on the brink all the time.

The valley pan gasket on the M62 really isn't to bad a job to do at home. I work at a shop between assignments so I've become pretty familiar with them. Valley pan is less common on the N62 but the coolant transfer pipe is very common, but is doable at home if you have some decent mechanical ability and the right tools.

Valve stem seals are expensive and and can be done without pulling the heads but it is better practice to pull the heads so that the secondary air system can also be cleaned/serviced. That being said I have seen good vale stem seals on N62s in excess of 150K. I wrote about this in another thread so I won't get into it here.

To be honest a 4.8 is the better package to have, you can find one if you aren't in a rush and just wait for the right one. 4.8 Models tend to have lower miles just because they are newer than the 4.6 models but a well maintained 4.6 will be cheaper to run than a ragged out 4.8 end of story. When I bought my 4.4 I was in need of another vehicle so I didn't really have the time to wait for a 4.8 and for the price I paid for my 4.4 I couldn't not get it but if you aren't in a rush they are out there. Being that you're in England you can find a 4.8 in Sterling Gray, which to me is the best color on the E53, and I'm not just saying that because mine is Sterling Gray.

I've never really towed with an E53. We have a 2500 Cummins Diesel that we use when we need to tow something. I've towed a light utility trailer with some fire wood for about 20-25 miles with a Pre-Face Lift M62 and it was no problem. Didn't really notice any difference in feel. I've never towed with a Face-Lift model so I can't compare the two. I have an original tow bar setup sitting in my garage that waiting to be installed on my 4.4, I don't really intend on towing anything heavy with it but its nice to have it in case I need to tow something.

Since you did bring up towing with an E53 the original tow bar setup is what you want. There are some aftermarket options available but none of them integrate as well as the original one does. Find an E53 that has the tow bar or see if you can find a used one to install on yours.

Paul, the panoramic roof likes to break when tilted open. They get stuck partially open. There are documented cases and fixes online.

Yes, nothing really unfixable but just a lot more to keep track of compared to most japanese SUV's, especially Toyotas. But these have a lot more character too. If you are ok with that the E53 is a fine truck when in condition. :)

Spot on with all the info and advice guys - its very helpful and give me a heads up when I start viewings :)

Maybe don't dismiss the 3.0 engines as "under-powered" until you drive one. Especially the diesel, if you can get one.

The 3.0d has as much torque (over a wider range) than most of the V8 versions. That's great for towing (sane loads at sane speeds).

I don't point this out just because I have the diesel - full disclosure here, I've never driven a V8 version. Just been looking at the figures on paper! :dunno:

As the former owner of two 3.0i E53s (one pre-, one post-facelift, or "LCI” in BMW-speak) and the present owner of an '02 4.6is, I'll add my 2¢ to the conversation.

There will always be outliers, but generally speaking, any V8-powered BMW from this era will be an expensive ownership experience. That's not hyperbole or an attempt at being witty - just the way it is. Unless you are lucky enough to find one with extensive and documented service history, you’re always taking a risk when buying a vehicle like this as a used car.

I know it sounds like I’m just bagging on BMW, but I’m really not. I love them. I presently own 5 and over the last 20 or so years, have had at least 30 of them. Without any doubt, the most expensive to operate and labor intensive vehicle I have ever owned has been the 4.6is. This includes several E39s (the previous high-maintenance champ), M cars, an E38 740, and a Porsche. There is ALWAYS something wrong with this car.

But you know what? It’s worth it. There is nothing on the market, new or used, that compares to the driving experience of an E53 X5 4.6 or 4.8is. Of course, that only applies to when it’s actually running and drivable. Mine is out of commission yet again due to flat battery - I think caused by a faulty amplifier for the radio.

So if you can live with endless fluid leaks, inevitable down time for repairs (and the bills that come with them), you can score an amazing deal on a car that cost over $70K when new. And the truth is that some people really don’t care about those shortcomings. For others, they’re deal breakers. You just have to decide which group you’re in.

I don't think any of us can draw definitive conclusions on the cost of operation of any V8 or model of that era. We can only convey our personal experience. We certainly can't draw a conclusion from the small sampling of the V8 universe represented by this forum.

I think the best advice is how to minimize the purchase risk as has been conveyed. I will say that due to the cost of parts and labor, the risk is significantly greater if one is not capable of DIY. That applies to opinions on either end of the spectrum.

Ta for all the input chaps - I tink I certainly need to be driving and seeing a few in person.

I dont think id be at the stange I am if I wanst prepared for cost etc - coming from the Toyota evverything is going to be less reliable ;)