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New owner with problems
Hello all. I am new to the X5, but not new to BMW. I've owned several E46's and a couple E90's. I love BMW's even though I know they have their issues. I do most repair work myself, and enjoy doing it, but sometimes these cars worry me to death. I just bought a 2005 BMW X5 3.0L. It's got 105k on it and pretty clean. I inherited a couple of issue with it I will highlight below:
1- Hood struts are worn out (no big deal, I can fix that easily) 2- Hood release doesn't really work well. If you pull the lever inside the car it will release the hood, but the lever at the grill will not stay out for me to access. I have to wedge something between the hood release inside the car and the plastic so that it will not retreat back into it's original position. Is this a bad release cable? 3- Needs new brake pads, easy enough. Do I have to replace the pad wear sensors, or replace only if I break them. 4- Battery won't stay charged. New battery as of a couple of months ago according to the seller. I jumped it off the other day and drove it for a good 30 minutes. Parked it and it would not start 24 hours later. I'll have to do some more work on this to try and track down the issue. Any help or insight would be appreciated. I have searched and come up with some ideas, but would like some "live" feedback. I really like the car and hope I can get it up to par so I can really enjoy it. |
3) Depending on age *sensor wires do break*, cost is cheap on the sensor, either or on that
4) Alt is not design to charge a discharged battery. Best to charge it via a charger/maintainer. What's the running volt. when fired it. Sounds most likely that alt on the #4 |
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DIY how to test a BMW E39 battery & alternator (discussion) - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums |
Brake sensors should be replaced with pads even if they have not set off warning light. Too easy to damage and are inexpensive.
First step on battery issue is to open the cluster and check alternator output. Should be around 14.1. If that checks out, have the battery LOAD tested. Most auto parts store with do that at no charge. New battery may be bad. |
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Some will some won't but as long as the battery is fully charged the battery doesn't have to be removed from the car. Have you checked the battery date of install? It is usually on top of the battery and if the specs of the battery meet or exceed what is recommended?
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It has been terribly cold here, so I haven't had the opportunity to do much with the car yet. It is supposed to warm up a bit this weekend and I'll pull it into the garage and start trying to figure this stuff out. Thanks for the help early on though!
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Until you replace the hood struts google how to fix with PVC pipe. You can fix for $3.
Sounds like broken spring on the hood latch situation. Rather than replace the part that has an axial spring internal you could fix with an external spring you can buy for $2 if that's the case but also work some good non sticky lubricant into the cable and all latch mechanisms. I found some incredible "gate hinge" lubricant at Home Depot HDX brand it is water thin but stays on outdoors in the rain so should be perfect for hood latches in fact I will use on mine next time I open Track down the parasitic drain. You can use a cool tool that plugs into a fuse spot and shows the drain. Test each fuse it will take a couple hours including the fuses in back and front. Also: measure the voltage before you attempt a start. If the voltage is near 12v and won't start likely you have a bad connection at the battery terminal. I've see 5v drop on a terminal. Enough to generate enough heat to melt the cable insulation but also 7v ain't going to start a car! Sent from my awrPhone using Tapatalk |
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The hood should have a spring on the two pins -- one or both of the pins -- that the latches hold onto to keep the hood shut. When you operate the hood release, the springs should raise the hood so that the release catch sticks out through the grille vents. I also have an '05 that I bought a year ago, I had to get hood struts for it. I think I got mine from eBay. Brake pads are just like the other BMWs you have had, you do not need to replace the brake wear sensor unless the indicator light is on, or if you damage the sensor swapping it from the old pads to the new ones. I'm going with the dead battery as the problem. Take what the PO says with a grain of salt. It's easy enough to test the battery, but you are describing one that has reached end life. I was jumping my car, my E36, for several months because I seldom drive it. Finally I drove it from Los Angeles to San Diego and the car would not start immediately after turning it off. |
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