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-   -   CV Axle Replacement - What Else? (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/104011-cv-axle-replacement-what-else.html)

hunds02 06-27-2016 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by upallnight (Post 1081612)
How does the joint look? The one reviewer on Amazon stated that the joint appears to be high quality and he would use them again for all his BMW.

Not everything Made in China is junk, look at all the eye phones that are made there. The people that drank from the Apple Cider can't get enough of Apple products that are made in China.

I purchased an ac relay for my PORSCHE and the box had the PORSCHE logo, but the relay, a BOSCH relay said Made in China.

It looks pretty solid and its got some weight to it. Haven't looked in it too much. I bet you're right though, and with the review on Amazon, I'm feeling pretty optimistic about it.

upallnight 06-27-2016 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hunds02 (Post 1081613)
Thanks for this info. I may be having this issue too along with the CV joints. I get noise as I'm turning right (you can hear it well when you're going on an exit ramp). I wouldn't say its a clicking/ticking noise or a clunk. Somewhere in between maybe? It's definitely audible though. I will still replace the CV joint though as I had a mechanic tell me the boots were torn. That was in December 2014.

I do get a clunk every now and then when I turn the wheel for the first time I drive that day, it goes away for the rest of the drive until the next time I drive it. So I may have to look into the thrust arms / ball joints while I'm down there. Upallnight, can you clarify on how I can diagnose if they are bad just by looking at them?

A noise that comes on when you are making a turn can be a wheel bearing that is going bad. If you are making a right turn, then it can be a wheel bearing on one of the left wheel.

The noise when you first turn the wheel could indicates that the sway bar link is worn.

When you pop the tension arm off the ball joint, you can see/feel if there's play in the ball joint. There should be no play at all, Even the slightest amount of play will indicate that you have a bad ball joint.

ylwjacket 06-27-2016 11:37 PM

Thanks much. I have some tools, will need some others. With 3 BMW's approaching 100k miles (well, this one at 185k), I have a feeling I'll need the tools again.


thanks again.

Quote:

Originally Posted by upallnight (Post 1081603)
Clunking could be from the lower ball joints that connects the tension arms / thrust arms to the uprights. You will need a good ball joint separator to pop the ball joint out of the tension arm. You will need to pop the ball joint for the tie rod out of the upright in order to use the ball joint separator to pop the ball joint out of the tension arm.

I just replaced both thrust arms (what you call the tension) on my X last week. The passenger side only took me 30 minutes. The driver side took a little longer because the bolt that connects the thrust arm to the sub -frame is too long to remove unless you remove a plastic duct that is in the way.

The lower ball joint requires a female torx socket to remove. Don't use a regular socket it or you mess up the torx head.

If you notice that the boot is torn and the cv joint isn't making any noise when you turn the steering wheel, you can probably get by with just a boot. If the joint is making a clicking noise you must replace the cv joint or the entire axle.

Don't have all these special tools, then take it in and let a mechanic fix it.


hunds02 06-28-2016 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by upallnight (Post 1081631)
A noise that comes on when you are making a turn can be a wheel bearing that is going bad. If you are making a right turn, then it can be a wheel bearing on one of the left wheel.

The noise when you first turn the wheel could indicates that the sway bar link is worn.

When you pop the tension arm off the ball joint, you can see/feel if there's play in the ball joint. There should be no play at all, Even the slightest amount of play will indicate that you have a bad ball joint.

I'll look into the wheel bearing sometime next week. Found TSB: SI B 31 01 05.

I got the car on jack stands to try to get an idea on what's going on. Yeah the CV Boots are definitely torn. Will replace that with the joints next week.

http://i933.photobucket.com/albums/a...psrdxfgydl.jpg

http://i933.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6j0abyrn.jpg

As far as the sway bar links go, it seems like an easy fix, however, I don't want to throw money at the car if it doesn't need to be fixed. How can you tell if the sway bar link is bad? I tried checking for movement and it seemed very stiff. To check if the lower control arm (tension strut) bushing is bad, I checked for back and forth movement of the wheel. This does not look good, the wheel is wobbling more than I think it should (see video below). Maybe the lug bolts are not torqued to spec? I also tried to feel for movement on the lower control arm and as you will see in the video, I can get it slighly budge, but by no means is it loose.. Also is that what the bushing should look like at the end of the video?


https://youtu.be/vumcGe5EZnc

https://youtu.be/sa5DL4eh5RI

I have no problem replacing the sway bar links and CV joint/boot. Just hope I don't need to replace control arms (bushings) or ball joints... Just had an alignment done not too long ago. Also I'm at 170k now and about 5 months ago, Classic BMW in Cleveland did a complimentary vehicle inspection and mentioned the CV boots. I told them the whole front end probably needs work due to age and mileage and they said everything looks pretty stiff...

EDIT: Oh and forgot to mention I do get the steering wheel shake under braking (for a long time now).. Really hope its sway bar links and not thrust arms, tension arms, or ball joints.

upallnight 06-28-2016 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hunds02 (Post 1081769)
I'll look into the wheel bearing sometime next week. Found TSB: SI B 31 01 05.

I got the car on jack stands to try to get an idea on what's going on. Yeah the CV Boots are definitely torn. Will replace that with the joints next week.

http://i933.photobucket.com/albums/a...psrdxfgydl.jpg

http://i933.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6j0abyrn.jpg

As far as the sway bar links go, it seems like an easy fix, however, I don't want to throw money at the car if it doesn't need to be fixed. How can you tell if the sway bar link is bad? I tried checking for movement and it seemed very stiff. To check if the lower control arm (tension strut) bushing is bad, I checked for back and forth movement of the wheel. This does not look good, the wheel is wobbling more than I think it should (see video below). Maybe the lug bolts are not torqued to spec? I also tried to feel for movement on the lower control arm and as you will see in the video, I can get it slighly budge, but by no means is it loose.. Also is that what the bushing should look like at the end of the video?


https://youtu.be/vumcGe5EZnc

https://youtu.be/sa5DL4eh5RI

I have no problem replacing the sway bar links and CV joint/boot. Just hope I don't need to replace control arms (bushings) or ball joints... Just had an alignment done not too long ago. Also I'm at 170k now and about 5 months ago, Classic BMW in Cleveland did a complimentary vehicle inspection and mentioned the CV boots. I told them the whole front end probably needs work due to age and mileage and they said everything looks pretty stiff...

EDIT: Oh and forgot to mention I do get the steering wheel shake under braking (for a long time now).. Really hope its sway bar links and not thrust arms, tension arms, or ball joints.

Most of the time, that shaking under braking is either the thrust arm bushing is shot or the rotors are worn to the point that the thickness is no longer within spec and the heat generate under braking is warping the rotors.

hunds02 06-28-2016 08:54 PM

Tension Strut, Wishbone, Lower Control Arm, Upper Control Arm, Thrust Arm?
 
The terminology is killing me.

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

From the link above, Item 6 (31126769717, 31126769718) are the tension struts. What are the other names from the title of this post are these also known as?

From the link above, Item 10 (31126760275, 31126760276) are the wishbones. What are the other names from the title of this post are these also known as?

This will clarify a lot!

upallnight 06-29-2016 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hunds02 (Post 1081775)
The terminology is killing me.

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

From the link above, Item 6 (31126769717, 31126769718) are the tension struts. What are the other names from the title of this post are these also known as?

From the link above, Item 10 (31126760275, 31126760276) are the wishbones. What are the other names from the title of this post are these also known as?

This will clarify a lot!

From the link above, Item 6 (31126769717, 31126769718) are the tension struts. What are the other names from the title of this post are these also known as? Thrust arm, camber arm.

From the link above, Item 10 (31126760275, 31126760276) are the wishbones. What are the other names from the title of this post are these also known as? Control arm

hunds02 06-29-2016 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by upallnight (Post 1081806)
From the link above, Item 6 (31126769717, 31126769718) are the tension struts. What are the other names from the title of this post are these also known as? Thrust arm, camber arm.

From the link above, Item 10 (31126760275, 31126760276) are the wishbones. What are the other names from the title of this post are these also known as? Control arm

Ahh it all makes sense now! Now when I'm looking at parts I understand which component goes where. I found a easy DIY on the wishbone / lower rear control arm. However, it looks like I may need to replace the tension strut instead. I guess if the bushings are shot it would make sense to replace that while I do the CV joint. Might as well do the sway bar links while I'm down there.

hunds02 06-29-2016 01:05 PM

FCP Euro Lifetime Warranty
 
FYI, the Meyle HD Thrust Arms are on clearance at FCP. Only $77 each with Meyle HD Bushings. Roughly $200 with two of those thrust arms and two Meyle Ball Joints. Not bad for a complete Thrust Arm replacement for both sides...

EDIT: So just read about this lifetime warranty that FCP Euro offers, that even includes wear items! I've heard people saying bushings will last about 50k and to not waste money on aftermarket ones. Shit if FCP will replace these along with the balljoints when they go bad, then I will definitely buy from them! This seems too good to be true.

ylwjacket 08-13-2016 09:03 PM

question for those that have done this before: I went by the dealer today and picked up the differential shaft seals. In the box, there was a seal, and a little c-clip. The clip looks to me like it's the clip that goes on the end of the axle. There is not a clip on the seal, correct?

Has anyone else bought this seal from the dealer and found that in the box?

I actually asked if they had the clips, based on comments to use the OEM clips, but they did not carry them. I am thinking they were in that box with the seal though.'

Thanks much.


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