My X needs BIG time TLC
 

Hello gents,

I have for the past 2 years had a slight issue with the gearbox slipping, it only happened once in a blue moon and after the gasket was replaced by BMW....I didn't go back to them as they also messed up my air suspension AND tried to get away with replacing my rear parking sensors with 3-series sensors. Let's just say I took the car out without any more work done on it...I sorted it out myself. Now, every morning for the past week, the gearbox is religiously slipping when accelerating from a full stop (sometimes when braking also)...1st to 2nd or 2nd to 1st. This does not happen when the car is at optimum temp.

So today I took the car up on a lift for a visual inspection and trans fluid level check, the following was noted:

1. There was no visual leaks from under the tranny but I still went ahead and opened the fill plug, waited for it to drain and refilled with fresh fluid. Just a quick job but the tranny reacted positively on the way home. I'll double check this when the car is cold again.

2. I noticed some wet areas/fresh fluids that I couldn't figure out their point of origin (except from one). See pics. Any ideas?

3. I have many other pending matters such as:

* Replacing power steering reservoir + hoses
* Both tie rods
* Take out old susp. air bags (rear), I left them there after converting the suspension
* Replacing the black plastic clips on all windows
* Glue back some of the inner plastic molds and "clip holders" in the door cards
* Flush & refill coolant
* Fix sagging roof lining at some point (the pano roof cover)

Any input on part/fluid options and perhaps other work that can be done while I'm "down there" would be highly appreciated.

I trust this forum...you fine gents...any day over the dealer.

Do you have INPA/DIS? Scan your transmission and the codes will help you narrow it down.

You can try to reset trans adaptations after the fluid change too.

Have you done transfer case oil change already? It's just 1 liter. A very expensive 1 liter though lol!

Tie rod I would get the assembly with the rack end and ball joint so I wouldnt have to touch that area for a long time. Lemforder is OE for that part.

For the power steering, why do you need to replace the reservoir? Filter is not replaceable but the reservoir can be removed and it can be cleaned. Reservoir is not that expensive though so it's up to you. Hoses, yeah, those like to leak over time and I need to replace mine too.

Coolant flush and re-fill would be a good time to inspect and replace other system parts like hoses, etc. Depends on what you have done to the system since you got it, it can go all the way to a full overhaul. I would check all the pulleys, tensioners, water pump, visco fan, fan blade, and drive belts while there

The fluid in the pics could be spread all over those areas by driving at speed. Cant tell what kind from the pics. Could be engine oil or PS fluid.

Removing the airbags, I would check for excess negative camber and replace parts to get it back to spec if needed...usually the upper control arms. OE Lemforders or since you may be lowered, maybe look into the adjustable control arms a member posted up about recently.

Fluids - BMW OE coolant, pretty much any LL01 engine oil, and ZF Lifeguard 6 for the tranny. PS is Dex III but I think some BMW's use Pentosin for the PS? The PS filler cap will be marked for which. BMW OE X-drive transfer case fluid for the transfer case.

* Glue back some of the inner plastic molds and "clip holders" in the door cards

I have been doing this lately, I picked up a four pack of these from my local lowes for around 20$ used a wire brush on my dremel to clean up the plastic parts and rough up the glue still stuck to the cork/whatever door bits being careful so that the install line was still present, then gluing with gorilla glue

- Much appreciated buddy, I have some serous research/sourcing to do now :D

By the way: I also have the 4x4 light on constantly....diagnosis says it's the steering angle sensor, I have a new one but not been successful in replacing it...should I hold off with this until I get INPA started and clearing any codes the Tcase might throw? Could that be a possibility?

Thanks colejy, did you use actual glue or Epoxy of some sort? Ideally I would really like to get the same stuff BMW uses but from where and what is it called?

I used the original gorilla glue which expands as it cures which should help with the textured plastic and the fact that I did not remove the existing glue only ruffed up the surface, I read that dealerships would use 3m windshield adhesive to do repairs . The factory glue does not seem to adhere to the plastic very well but sticks to the door panel very well to the point that the glue I did manage to remove took a small layer of the door material with it. I can't speak to longevity yet I guess I can report back in a year or two when I am replacing a door carrier or window regulator :(

No problem bud!

Steering angle sensor replacement is all done at the driver's footwell by the pedal. But you will need BMW software to calibrate.

The fluid might be from the front and or rear crankshaft seals if you really have no fluid loss anywhere else. But hopefully it's just scattered fluid from your minor leaks. I guess you can address the obviously leaking stuff then you can check if it those areas are still wet, hopefully not.

For the cooling system it looks good so far, I would also check the heater hoses that are sometimes easy to forget. I had a slow leak on the water distribution plate on the 4.6, those can fail also.

Squeaks sound like ball joints to me? Maybe have a helper steer back and forth while listening under the car? The sticking I cant think of a reason for at the moment.

Oh, and I meant just the rack end assembly which is the ball joint to the spindle and ball joint attached to the rack. The whole steering rack is expensive! I am looking at complete racks myself as I have a slight knocking noise traced to the inside of the racks of both the 4.6 and 3.0. Remans are almost $1000!

The transfer case fluid can be done DiY, no need to see the dealer except maybe get the fluid. Fluid is available online.

Hopefully you get the INPA/DIS working, it will pay for itself just getting your steering angle sensor working again.

Lastly, for the door panel plastic brackets, I had to repair mine and from what I see they use some sort of epoxy. The board looks too porous for glue to hold. I used an epoxy on mine and worked great, holding fine after a few door carrier replacements.

I used construction adhesive to glue back together my door cards when I had the door cards off installing speakers. I had to take the door apart to fix a window regulator and everything stayed together even when pulling it apart again. Looks like it's holding well. I clamped the pieces together while they tried. Not sure how important that is. But I think it is good practice.

You guys are awesome, thank you for all the info and I'm sorry for late reply.

The door cards: I will visit the one place where I MIGHT find industrial adhesive or larger amounts of glue/epoxy (small town), hopefully they'll be able to help me.

g300d:
I tried replacing the sensor myself 3 times but haven't been successful in getting the old one out, I can't for the life in me figure out how to push the steering rod into the floor. Have you done this?

Thanks for clarifying the steering rod thing, that's exactly what I will do. I only use the dealer for fluids and certain parts nowadays, never for work.

It will take me some time to get to the bottom of all this as the X is my daily driver AND I have no access to lift/working area for longer periods :/ , but I will keep you guys posted.

Quick update: I got INPA working now (Win10) after realizing a mistake during installation. Scanned the car yesterday and got more codes than I hoped for haha Although most of them are minor and went away after clearing them. The two main points of concern are:

1. Steering angle sensor, the diagnosis gives calibration as the issue but I've tried the steering lock to lock without success. Also, clearing the code doesn't even put the light out, not for a second even! I need help understanding how to push the steering column into the floor so I can replace the SAS...open for suggestions!

2. Transfer case - g300 was right on the money here :), Diagnosis says "detection of noise" and suggests fluid change. Any recommendation on where I can buy this fluid? (dealer in no option for me in this case)

The gearbox did throw 1 fault that said "hard downshift" which is exactly what's been happening to me (2nd to 1st) but after clearing the code and going out for a spin it seems to be ok now...smooth shifting. Is that normal?

Congrats on getting your software running!

On the sensor, sorry, farmed that out to an indy as I didnt have INPA at the time. I watched them get to it from the footwell but was not able to see it actually done.

Calibration of a new sensor is done with the BMW software and is different from the turn to lock we do when we disconnect/reconnect the battery. It's in one of the "body" submenus in INPA.

The Xdrive fluid part number is 83220397244. Checking around a bit, a company called Ravenol makes a compatible transfercase fluid. Here's an ebay search I tried. None in Norway, but a few international sellers offer it. 83220397244 | eBay

About the codes, just clear them and see if they come back is what I usually do.

Just replaced my SAS. Fully telescope steering wheel. Disconnect the shaft under the dash and push shaft towards the floor. It's not a simple as it sounds but it is doable. Make sure you put an indexing mark on the clamp and shaft before you separate them. If you do and then move the wheel the wheel won't be straight when the car is going straight. I know. I made that mistake. So I got to take it apart several times to get it straightened out. I became quite proficient at taking them apart.

Thanks, now I need to learn how to use it properly :) I cleared all the codes and got the air suspension, SAS and something about the air circulation as the only ones with actual faults...now i have no clue what the circulation thing is all about, tried all settings and it works fine. The rest is true.

Here is a perfect example of the costs I'm talking about: total price for the fluid+vat+shipping comes in at over $120!! Of course I will bite the bullet and get the lesser of the two evils...which ever option that is.

Your help is priceless though :)

BMW X5 4.8iS 2005

My first attempt at this a couple of years ago I gave up fairly quickly after realising I have nothing to code the new SAS with...I wasn't successful in pushing the rod onto the floor then either but didn't go all out on it due to above reason. My second attempt, I figured I'll take it to the dealer AFTER I replace it myself...got stuck at pushing the rod, this time after a good fight. Third time, I gave that rod my all, using every tool, toy, cutlery, swear words I had to no avail. I pushed it with enough force, believe me. I just couldn't figure out why it felt like something was still holding it, I did unbolt everything.

Am I supposed to raise the car, key in or out of ignition, any "hidden" bolts/screws?? I'm lost...



BMW X5 4.8iS 2005

No problem at all Awntchi, glad I could help a little. :)

$120 for a liter of oil...ouch!

Why isnt the dealer an option for the fluid? If the dealer is a long drive from you, maybe you can get a friend or relative closer by to get it and ship it to you? Would probably still be less than international ordering.

On the circulation...yeah, if it works fine just ignore it for now! I have a grounded heater circulation pump that I ignore since I dont use the heater anyway. I'll just get to it when I feel like it lol!

Oh, and in preparation for the for the transfer case fluid change, you should know you will need DIS/GT1 to reset the transfer case adaptations as INPA does not have that capability. DIS can also be downloaded online if you dont have it yet.

It's a round trip of 4+ hours to the dealer and I have no family or friends in this country....only colleagues. Besides, the dealer quoted me just under $100 (not including shipping or cost of travel for me).

Thanks for the tip on GT1, I could have sworn that INPA included the option to reset adaptations when I diagnosed it yesterday but that could have been me misunderstanding it. Anyway, GT1 it is....now I'll have 4 different diagnostic tools for this car....if anyone questions my commitment haha

Edit: I actually have DIS already installed, came as a pack with INPA when I bought it. That should do it, right?

Just the bolt holding the clamp to the shaft. That bolt needs to be removed not just loosened as it goes in a slot on the shaft. If you don't remove it you'll never get the two apart. Then hit it with a dead blow hammer. It should move.

Fifty, yes I did remove that bolt and did hit/push it will everything I got but it didn't budge...I'll keep trying :)

Another thing you might try, once the bolt is removed run the wheel all the way in, then slip a screw driver through the connector and brace it against the framework above. Then run the wheel out while holding the screwdriver in place. The shaft should come free.

Ok, that I haven't tried. Running the wheel all the way in....you mean the actual wheel adjustment (with the small, left lever)?

BMW X5 4.8iS 2005

Exactly. That's what I did the first time. After that I beat it with a dead blow hammer. The hammer worked better, but it could be because I did the screw driver thing the first time.

Gotcha!

INPA does indeed reset adaptations for engine and tranny, not for the transfer case though. I wish it did! I need to reset adaptations myself as I changed the trans oil some time ago but havent reset adaptations yet.

Yes, DIS can do the transfer case according to what I've read online.