Timing for Camshafts (not Vanos)?
 

2002 x5 4.4

Making a write up of proper information I used. A lot of misinformation in this post. Live and learn. It boils down to using the right information, following the correct procedures and take advise form fellow members.

YES!

Got done Again with the camshaft timing. Got rid of Code P0021 but still have the code P0011 Bank 1 timing is to far advanced. I followed the Biesian procedure down to a tee and checked 2-3 times that the step was done properly, I even went out and bought a torque wrench to ensure everything was torqued down properly. Cranked the motor over a couple of times by hand and put the blocks back on. They were laying flat.

Started it the first time and in 3 cranks it started with no codes. Let it run for about 3 minutes and turned it off. Checked the water level topped it off and started again with no codes. I let it warm up for about 5 minutes. No codes. Went to go for a test ride, started it up and code P0011 popped up again. Turned it off erased the code and no codes on starting. OK so I take it for a drive, at the end of the parking spot going on to the road it pops the code again. Took it for a 3 mile drive code stayed there. I'm thinking it is the sensor by now.

I did not do the Vanos section of the Biesian procedure.

Today's project was to test the solenoids. I did a ground test of the solenoid male pins and didn't have any ohms on them. I tested to see how many ohms there was between the 2 pins on each of them and got 11.1 ohms at 80.6 degrees F.

I tested both for voltage on the female connectors and got 8.23 volts for both. Tested for ohms and both had none.

Pulled bank 1 solenoid and did a functional test with 12 volts and operated correctly. Cleaned it since it was out. Put it back in and got the P0011 code after starting the second time.

Tomorrow, swap camshaft sensors and if not then going to tear bank 1 side down again and see if the blocks line up.

Last year I put a new lower chain tensioner on. I received another new one in the kit I got. They both are identical on the outside and same height. The spring inside of the new one seems twice the strength as the new one I got last year. It has less deflection on the guide and rail, holds it in place better(or worse).

Doubt its the sensor. Did you reset all the adaptations? Your diagnostic tool should have a program/function that allows all of the adaptations to be reset.This definitely should be done and then see if the code pops back up.

I'll go out and reset. Lets see what happens.
Thanks
Nope still there.

Swapped the CPS's, Bank one still popped the code P0011. Pulled the timing cover, pinned the flywheel at TDC, put the blocks on, they both lay flat after I turned the intake cam to the end stop of the vanos. Checked the camshaft sensor wheel alignment and lined up.

Tomorrow put it back together and swap the vanos solenoids from side to side. At a loss after that.

You may have to adjust the cam shaft sensor wheel to keep the code away. I have been there and done that on the M62 engines including the 4.6is

There is no SES light but both the code readers pop a P0011. Is this something that is stored in the computer. I tore the right bank down and retimed the cams. Exhaust is right on but the intake was off. I was using the cam locks married together last time but this time used the individual ones to set.
EDIT: Light finally came on.

Hi,

Try this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XiPK...ature=youtu.be

Did the drill bit in the hole and matches up.

The fix. I retarded the camshaft sensor wheel counter clockwise by 1 imagination hole below the alignment hole and the P0011 code went away.

Why the alignment hole did not align properly. The upper timer cover is not fixed in a position. It has about 1-2mm of movement in all directions around the screws. These remain loose until the valve cover is tightened down then they get tightened down. With new seals on the upper timing chain cover and valve cover it can scew where the camshaft position sensor is in relation to the camshaft position sensor wheel.

I suggested that you do this on my second post on the first page. I indicated that I have done this procedure on my 4.4L BMWs and 4.6is. Once you get it down to just one code on a bank and the timing is spot on then you can adjust the degree timing sensor wheel. It's all part of the intricacies of the M62 engine

I'm an anal person when it comes to adjustments, if it's not spot on according to the manual the perfectionist in me would like to know the reason why. Quite a few threads saying to adjust the camshaft sensor wheel but no reason why. I only found 1 post with the reason and the theory behind it. You sent me in the right direction to find the information so I gave you, X53Jay4.8is, some reputation. Thanks

Well crap, from a P0011 to P0324. And it continues.

Adjusment
 

So why do you have to adjust a the set point of the trigger wheel?

Because the camshaft sensor is not in one set place. In the instructions it says to leave the upper timing cover loose until the valve cover is tighten down. With new seals it might not squash down to where factory was so that sets the camshaft sensor in a different place. All the codes went away when I used a pin the size of the hole to time the camshaft sensor wheel through the camshaft upper cover guide. I moved it less than 1/4 inch down from the hole. Running perfect so far.

Okay my theory of why goes back to the tools that we have a available for locking the cams. Most of the tools used to lock them are aftermarket, where as the BMW is more robust and far more expensive. These engines are very particular when it comes to timing. Like I said its just a theory. In March of this year I had my X5 ripped down to do the usual timing chain guide replacements, timing chains, whole 9 yards etc.) When we were done putting it back together she was timed spot on with the tools that I had. All seamed to be good and then after 275 miles of operation timing code was triggered. Scanned the vehicle and I cant remember if its was over advancement or over retardation but the cord was there. Everything lined up great after competing the timing re-check. This time around we went back and reset all of the adaptations and drove it again. That was over 3000 miles ago. So there is always something new on these vehicles but they are finickier than the average V8 engine when it comes to timing.

Vanos
 

The reason I asked is because if you use the correct timing tools and reset the adaptations you should not have a timing code. From experience if you loosen the intake cam sprocket "Vanos ". You can have problems due to the inner seals in the Vanos that are nolonger under tension. Then is oil pressure to adjust the Vanos unit is lost and then the DME does not see the camshaft in the position that it wants.

Well if the VANOS needs to be repaired then the cam sprocket would have to be loosened. I don't think that can be avoided in this case. I would imagine that clearing and resetting adaptations would be beneficial in this case.

Timing
 

If you loosen the intake bolt to set the intake camshaft timing then with out knowing you can cause the problem. That is all that I am saying. Resetting the adaptations does not fix the possible adjusting capability of the Vanos. But what ever floats your boat.