Brake Dust on Front Wheels
 

Does anyone know how to minimize the brake dust that accumulates primarily on the front wheels? If minimizing the brake dust is not an option, how do you clean your wheels without having to wipe it down on a daily basis? If aftermarket brake pads are recommended, do you have any suggestions ... w/o losing performance?

Itching to try Mintex pads...
 

when my current/original set needs replacement. They are supposed to be low-dust. There may be posts on the Roadfly site that offer performance reviews. I ride on chrome 20" wheels (aftermarket) in the spring/summer/fall and "have" to clean them with a QD almost daily.

Smiley
'03 X5 3.0 -- Steel Grey

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/arc...p/t-39548.html

Hawk High Performance Street Pads for Stock Brakes

F-$98

R-$78

http://www.zeckhausen.com/BMW/X5.htm

no matter what what dustless pad you get you will more than likely get some sqeal just to warn you.

I've been running the Mintex Red Box pads for the past 50K miles. Over 90% reduction in brake dust, no squeal issues, and excellent braking performance.

I'll be changing over to Axxis Deluxe pads later this year and will give a review on the differences.

True for lots of dustless pads. The OEM pads use graphite to stop squeal, hence the black dust.

Axxis/PBR/Repco/Metalmaster, same pad with different names in different countries, used to use copper in the pad for the same reason. I never had squeal issues installing these for years in other cars. I am trying to wear out my current X5 pads prior to changing them out for PBR/Repco. Lots of good reports on the Axxis-branded pads in the US, and they appear to have the original PBR ingredients, with a variety of formulations depending on application.

I do get the extremely occasional squealing (when wet) with the Axxis deluxe pads but the reduction in brake dust more than makes up for it.

What does installing aftermarket pads do to my warranty?

And just to confirm, it's a fairly straightforward DIY job for a complete noobie like me, right? :D

Thanks guys! This thread has been most helpful...I'm so glad I found this forum...what would I do without it. I ended up getting the iPod Mini after reading posts on this forum...did the install myself with the help from the instructions that were posted here.

Your warranty covers defects in materials and workmanship. Possible failures of non-related components shouldn't be linked in any way to changing brake pads. Having said that, if it is the replacement pads or the service work that causes the failure (ie premature rotor wear, or a wheel falling off later, just as examples), then that would have an impact. Not that Axxis pads should cause any issue at all, but you get my drift. You have to imagine some of the warranty claims dealers see. At the end of the day, manufacturers can't void warranties, but they also won't stand behind a product or service that they didn't sell. The interesting conversations are when they think your work caused a subsequent failure, and you don't agree.

"A straightforward job" is how I would describe it, not technically challenging, but your noobie comment causes me to caution that we are talking about the braking system here, not the stereo. If you haven't done mechanical work previously, or if you don't have the right tools and jack/jack stands/etc, working with someone who has isn't a bad idea at all. There are lots of instructions/manuals out there as well. Good luck.

Jeff

If your rotors warp, 90% of the dealers are going to blame in on your non-OEM pads. I guess it depends on your relationship with your stealer, but having to buy new rotors is a real possibility.

Yeah, I'd agree with that. Are you saying, though, that non-OEM pads (not track pads) are more likely to cause the rotors to warp? Or, is it a case of worn rotors warping if they are close to or under the minimum thickness spec? Part of doing the brake pad replacement is evaluating the condition of the rotors, but it isn't something that everyone will do. Not many will have access to a good lathe to get the right surface finish, if required.

Back to the original poster's question, if the rotors warp with new pads, were they not likely in need of replacement in any case, and shouldn't they have been done together with the pads?

Jeff

Buy a set of good replacement pads (Axxis or Mintex) and rotors (Brembo) and put the originals in a box on the shelf. If you ever need to put them back on for any reason, you have them at close hand.

By saying that it is a "real possibility" it kind of makes it sound like this is a likely outcome. On the contrary, it's my opinion that while it is possible for rotors to warp, it is unlikely that they will.

I have been using the EBC pads that have significantly reduced the brake dust with no squeal (eventually)

I dropped the car in and the brake company warned me that the rotors should really be machined as the OEM pads are likely to have left some wear grooves.

Thinking that this was the usual "pad out the bill" attempt I declined and drove away with my new pads.

I was back the next day, deafened by the noise as the new pads were squealing like a banshee.

They were right, and you could see where the new pads were not touching the disk. It was causing a slight vibration that became a squeal under braking when they warmed up.

Personally, changing pads DIY is a doddle but if you need the rotors done it kind of defeats the purpose.

I have only ever warped rotors when they are being pushed (track) with aggressive pads making up for undersized/spec'd rotors and not being allowed to cool down.

Normal day to day use would be extremely rare........

the "real possibility" I'm referring to is you buying new rotors in the event they warp. I've had 2 independent BMW service shops both tell me that the likelihood will increase with low dust pads. but, i have no expertise on matters of brakes and lots of people here on the board seem to be doing fine with them. So, in other words, :dunno:

Rangerfan: Lots of advice for your short question.

All of the above is part of the qualification that comes along with it being a straightforward DIY job. As LVR says, dropping in a set of pads is very simple. If the rotors are in very good shape, with no glazing, heat spots, wear grooves, etc, or if you are replacing the rotors, not so much to worry about. If you are keeping the rotors, you need to measure them and see how much metal is left. In general, warping rotors (other than on the track) can be a result of inappropriate pads for the street, failure to bed the pads in, hard driving, too little metal left on the rotors so that they are too thin, etc, or a combination of the above. Warping rotors on the track is about pushing the design limits. I haven't warped rotors in my very limited track time, but I did boil the brake fluid once in a Ferrari that wasn't mine, at a track day event.

If you use street pads (Axxis are good...), the rotors are in good shape or you replace them, you bed the pads in properly, then you are good to go. Hope all that helps.

Jeff