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You will get used to the access points. Once you do it can be whipped on and off quickly. I use a flexible ratcheting wrench (spanner to you fine gentlemen) on the nuts and a ratchet (or impact gun) on the bottom. Then a torque wrench for final torque.
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No worries, if the car is nice and high should be easier. if you are getting the turbo out, at the same time I had a look at my Manifold and inspected it, it was cracked and letting gasses past. Ended up getting a cast iron, which is as heavy as hell and cheap as chips (£68.00 with gaskets) I did notice the power was coming in sooner, about 1700RPM rather than about 2500RPM, with the cast iron one. Anyway thats off topic. Good luck! Let us know how you get on.
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What Lamby said :iagree:
Also as a tip for others needing this plate out of the way for any work: remove three bolts and loosen the 4th. Then pivot the plate out of your way (strategically select bolt #4 for your needed clearance). When finished, pivot plate back into position and reinstall all bolts or change them if you choose to follow the technical guidance (personally, I don't replace). Mike |
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Has anyone considered getting ARP bolts that match the thread pitch and length?
Those would be a one time purchase a reusable. The crank bolt is the same on my Mustang (although how often do you remove your crank, ha but I had to it 2-3 times already! lol) and I purchased ARP which can be torqued down 3-4 times before replacing it. |
Has anyone considered getting ARP bolts that match the thread pitch and length?
Those would be a one time purchase and reusable. The crank bolt is the same TTY on my Mustang (although how often do you remove your crank, ha but I had to it 2-3 times already! lol) and I purchased ARP which can be torqued down 3-4 times before replacing it. |
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I noticed that if I get on it with my impact, that I don’t need to really hold the nuts with anything. 7/10 times once it breaks loose, the impact get it out faster than the nut unsticks from frame.
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