Xoutpost.com - Remote Keyless Entry Issue

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Quote:

Originally Posted by CleanIsFast (Post 1100346)

Sounds similar to me. None of my keyfobs would work (unlock/lock the vehicle). Manually inserting into key hole would unlock the vehicle and obviously would start the vehicle. I checked the fuses, FZV antenna, dws red blinking light under the rear view mirro, even sent one keyfob off for repair (battery/soldering). Still wouldn't work.

Then when I tried to insert key into driver side door it wouldn't unlock the vehicle. It would turn freely left and right. Had to call TripleA and have them jimmy the door open and press the center lock button. Upon entry of the vehicle, key would start the vehicle no problem. But rear passenger doors would not open, even if you tried to manually pull the door handle from inside. Center lock/unlock button didn't work either. Door lock ended up being broken. Not the door lock actuator but the actual door lock itself.

Had to order door lock direct from Germany, supply registration, license, the whole nine. Upon replacement of the door lock, ALL doors unlocked. Both keyfobs now work (unlock/lock)...

I am not positive but I think there is some sort of transmission that goes on between the actual door lock when it connects/touches the actuator to send a signal to the central locking system to unlock the vehicle. Must've been stuck in limbo and the lock finally gave out.

The genius who created the E53 decided to only have one way in the vehicle is beyond me. No passenger key hole, no trunk key hole. Dead car battery or door lock issue and you are SOL.

Last possible thing I can think of is the GM3 module.

My key works perfectly in the door and locks all the doors and sets the alarm. The central locking switch on the console works just fine and locks and unlocks the doors.Its just the remote keyless no longer works. Its not getting the signal or something is not engerized correctly. Like I said there are three wires going into the antenna amplifier on the upper rear tailgate behind the trim. One has 12v all the time (red wire), another is only energized with 12V when ignition is activated (purple/white) and then their is the yellow wire (no 12 volts on this one). On a youtube video a tech used a labscope to to show how the signal from the remote keyless entry transmits the signal to antenna amplifier and that yellow wire showed 12.08 volts on it.I wonder if the GM supplies this 12.08 volts to the yellow wire? I reached out to quicksilver in a PM but never heard back from him.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joshdub (Post 1100349)

My key recently stopped working. I followed the new key initiation procedure and it started working again (the one where you insert it into the ingition while holding the buttons). Have you tried that yet?

Yes initiation has been done a couple of times no response.

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1100384)

I don't know I'm taking the guys word I'm guessing he tested at a battery replacement center that blinks a light when it senses RF from the fob. OP?

Correct:thumbup:

My garage door frequency is the same frequency as the BMW key If I hold it up to the garage door opener antenna and press one of the key fob buttons it lights up. So the key fob is good an operational.

Check out this test that a tech did on the E53. Check out the voltages on the test to the yellow/white wire. By the way I have changed the antenna module amplifier and still no change so this component has been eliminated as a possible flaw.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WA4hESNVU_8

So I have been studying the schematics of the Bentley manual to see if I can make heads or tails of my dilemma. It appears that the yellow/white wire that feeds into the antenna module at the back of the X5 should have 12 volts on it that comes from the gen module GM3 under the glove box of the X5. So either I have a defective GM3 module or a bad/broken wire connection somewhere from the front to the back of the X5. Of course I will see if we can identify the 12 volts coming off of the GM3 module. My BMW tech says that it should be pin #13 of the middle connector so we will start there with the probe. If I get the 12 volts coming off of that pin then its just a bad wire. If not then we have a failing GM3 module. More to come over the weekend.

The wire in question (signal called FBZV - Central locking signal - on WS/GE or White/Yellow wire) runs all the way back to the GM and terminates on pin #13 on GM connector X332.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...psat7v67ph.png

It's worth noting that there is a junction in this wire, at connector X13141, which splits off from/to the the electrochromic interior rear view mirror.

X10184, X13141

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...psyz5xpli3.png

behind glove compartment

HTH...

Quote:

Originally Posted by wpoll (Post 1100415)

Yes thankyou for the clarification I will be investigating this very same terminal at the GM3 module for the signal voltage.

Quote:

Originally Posted by X53Jay4.8is (Post 1100389)

That doesn't mean it is still synced with the car. Did you try to re-sync I can't remember.

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1100580)

That doesn't mean it is still synced with the car. Did you try to re-sync I can't remember.

Understood it just tells me that the key is transmitting so I could eliminate this as a potential problem. Anyway the yellow wire carries 11 volts as was identified by my power probe. I got the system to work by following through the re-initialization procedure a 10th time and it now works. As a matter of fact I re-initialized two keys for the vehicle.:confused:

You have to do all keys at once. Timing is everything it took me a few tries. It helps a lot to watch a YouTube video that shows realtime.