HELP! Broken Door Handle and NO POWER
 

https://scontent-sjc2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...b5&oe=593AF039

I know there are some other posts on this but not finding a very definitive answer.

AAA won't come out they are saying roads are too dangerous. What a crock so I guess they just leave people stranded. Cool.

Anyway I need to MacGyver my way in the driver door handle broke off and wasn't opening the door anyway with the door unlocked. I can move the lever with a screwdriver and dried hitting it with the hairdryer for over an hour NO GO.

Unfortunately all other doors are locked and the battery is completely dead.

I heard you can hook a jump pack to the positive lead of the starter and a ground to the brake (caliper?) like in this video of a 3.0:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veh1eGTWZ7M

Is the starter in the same location on the 4.4i? I can't really tell but looks like inside driver side frame rail towards the firewall? i should be able to get under the truck even tho its buried in snow. Won't be easy to jack it up tho...

Any other positive lead I could use?

Good day,

Well, maybe not yet in your case... Ummmmmm... If this was an E34, I could tell you a super quick and easy way to pop the hood lock and hook up the leads to the terminals in the engine bay... So, unless I actually come up with something, I'm wasting your time...

Hmmmmmm... as luck would have it, I have the 540i6 today at work...

I do know the starter on the 4.4L is on the lower pass side of the motor... not too bad to get to if you had some help to hold the light... If you had some time to kill, you could hook up the 10A battery charger long enough to pop the locks with the remote...

we'll deal with the door handle tomorrow when it's, ummmmmmmm... Warmer?

Cheers!!

crud

I just took a look on the driver side and couldn't find anything so what you are saying makes sense.

If anyone has a pic or something that would be really helpful. Unfortunately the passenger side is pretty buried in snow right now so I will have to dig it out.

All I have here are some trickle chargers I think that they are only a couple amps at most. I'm not sure my battery is actually dead I do have a battery brain cutoff switch on the battery it may have just shut the battery off. Unfortunately the remote is in the car and my spare is at home about 200 miles away :( Normally not a problem since I can just open the driver door manually (until now).

Guessing the trickle chargers won't supply enough amps to get the FOB working (guessing ECU has to be running, etc). I may have a long pair of jumper cables tho so maybe i could get a jump that way.

Sucks. Maybe AAA can come out tomorrow and bust in some other way...

Ahhhhhhhh... I was looking for a picture, but I didn't get any when I did the rebuild of 4... It is really difficult to get to the starter with the reinforcement plate in the way too... Possible, but I would be cautious about jumper cables...

Okay... Thinking... one sec...

You said the drivers door is not locked...... But wasn't opening the door regardless... get a flashlight and look in there... You may need to invent a hook strong enough to move the release lever... I wish I had a picture of that... (gotta put that on my to-do list)... I think the door handle broke on the first pull... That is why it wasn't opening the door with it unlocked... then the rest of the handle gave way and came off the X in your hands...

can you reach in with a pair of long nose pliers to the point where the rear of the handle attaches to the door carrier (the Aluminum thing just forward of the lock) and pull it out toward you?

Basically doing what the door handle would do if it did not fall off.

http://static.schmiedmann.dk/Product..._27872_big.jpg

Not sure this will help, but fingers crossed... I stole this picture from google... I'll delete it after we350z gets in his X... Coat hanger looped to pull on the yellow area... It is above the yellow spring... Hard to see... kinda sideways...

Where the bolt is in this picture...

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Hte9gSLpisI/maxresdefault.jpg

Let me know if you don't see them...

Is the door lock plunger in the door panel up?

This is a good idea if you get the charger hooked up to the starter... No need for the remote inside the X... Wait... You have the key, right?!

I just replaced both front door handle carriers over the weekend, so here are some photos from the driver's side, so you can see what is behind the door.

They are all oriented right side up, and taken from your viewpoint on the outside of the door.

The second photo, with the voltage detector pointing at the hook shows the thing you should grab with pliers (or if the hook is still there, even a piece of rope should do).

The 3rd and 4th photos show the hook thing when it is pulled out as far as it should come. So if you have not pulled it that far, you should be able to. If you pull it that far and the door does not open, then something has broken inside to prevent that.
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And if that does not work for some reason, here's a slightly more desperate approach ...

Use the long nose pliers to pull the rubber piece surrounding that hook thing out all the way. Remove it to get yourself some clearance.

That black cable sheath clearly shown in the 4th photo is the thing that carries the cable that actually pulls the door latch open. With the rubber piece removed, you may be able to sneak a slotted screwdriver through the hole to hit that cable sheath and press as hard as you can to try to pop the latch.

Or if that does not work, maybe a coat hanger going straight down through the hole made by removing the rubber piece would allow you to grab onto the thing the cable pulls and pull it directly. More finesse required than the previous approaches.

i think it was already partially broken for some time it was getting to the point where I really had to thrust it to get the door open.

That being said I can still move the plastic piece that it sheared off of with a pair of screwdrivers it makes a click but doesn't release the latch.

Tried screwing with the hood latch but that isn't so easy either. The passenger side is easy enough but can't say the same for the driver side. Would need to pull out the kidney grille remove the protective plastic somehow and fit a tool in there without a visual. Pain in the ass.

I'm hoping the AAA guy can get in or my remote will reconnect the battery.

This is the status of my hook marked in yellow paint in those photos, still bolted to handle lol.

I think I am going to try the slotted screwdriver / coat hanger approach my only concern those is that the actual locking mechanism is froze :(

If I could only supply 12V power somehow to the terminal under the hood or the starter than i could use the key fob to pop the other door locks and gain entry that way.

Definitely need a new carrier this one is toast. Already need to replace that window regulator again (surprise surprise) so at least I can kill 2 birds.

Ummmmmm... Hmmmmmmmmm... Yep... power to the vehicle is looking better and better... Any way to get the trickle charger hooked up to the starter? It is just above the rear of the stiffening plate on the pass side... A flashlight should allow you to see things, but might be a little difficult to access... I think you will be able to gain access to it with a little patience... Then forget about it for a few to see what happens...

I wonder if you can put door locks on the pass side? Or get a lock cyl made and install it in the "co-drivers" door... Hmmmmmmm...

Good luck!!!

I thought you might have snapped that off. But hopefully you can see the other side of the break and grab that and pull out. Yes, if the actual latch mechanism is frozen or something deep in there is damaged, there may be nothing you can do to open that door without taking it apart from the inside.

Just in case you're able to get the 12V applied ...
Expect the alarm to go off as the battery charges up from zero
In case your key fob / remote system is not working, you should be able to unlock all doors by turning the door key full left (90 degrees from vertical)

What a nightmare. Tried everything. Had booked a seat on Amtrak from Truckee back to Emeryville. Woke up at 5am to catch the bus to the station and got a call that the train was delayed 4 hours at least. Called AAA again they were still saying my area was restricted. Called the local tow company (Alpine Towing) who contracts with AAA and went straight to voicemail. Missed their call back when I was on the other line. Decided to go jack with the handle again looped a coat hanger through the little hole on the broken piece of the carrier. Tugged like a mother in it to no avail. Just when I have up what do I see but a Alpine Towing truck pulling up slowly. I ran out to the driver and told him I was locked out - At first I thought maybe AAA sent him or somehow they figured out my address and send a truck but turns out they only reason he was even out there to begin with was a cash job to pickup a brand new Diesel Chevy Colorado with a snapped axle. He said he would be right back. Once he returned he put a wedge in the door then slipped in a inflatable bladder so he could insert a bendable poker / hook tool and tried to pull the handles Fromm the inside. No go on the driver side. So I dug out the passenger side and e tried there also no luck. Then I had an idea of it really was my battery brain that shut off the battery connection then maybe he could hit the (extremely) tiny button on the remote that happened to be sitting face up in the open ash tray. I got my key fob ready. Took a couple tries through the 20% tinted windows but he finally got it I heard the power turn on iteunlock button and whala all does unlocked! Took him all of 5 minutes took get in the car amazing.

So which brand handle carrier replacement should I get? Doesn't look like OEM is made anymore... The part number is 51218243615 for the front left / drivers side?

Bavauto.com has OEM and aftermarket parts up to you. Purchased a lot there without issues. You probably will need both:
Outer door handle carrier - part# 51 21 8 243 615 (driver side)
Outer door handle - part # 51 21 8 243 617 (driver side). If they dont have the correct black color for your ride you can purchase unpainted and have it painted at bodyshop. Done it before on my gray 4.4

Hope you can get in. Good luck.

You can still get the carriers from BMW. My local dealer had 150 in stock when I called.

Or you can order it from FCP and never need to order another again.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-51218243615-1

Hook 12V lead or a 9V battery to one of the license plate lights. Should energize the GM enough to unlock the doors using the key or tumbler on the drivers door.

Hmm interesting. I've heard of people shorting out the electrical system to disable alarms this way when breaking into cars. Sounds risky.

I think the ECU has to run for the security system to enable which would allow the key fob signal to work or double left clicking the tumbler.

Actually handle looks pretty good and the tumbler cover clips are intact as well. The left side peg on the handle is a tiny bit mutilated I think a little silicone will keep it snug. The right side is intact I just have to remove the bolt to take off the broken piece from the carrier.

Might regret later it but there is a carrier on eBay for $23 they've sold 700 of them I guess going to give it a try.

For 00-06 BMW X5 Left Front Outside Outer Exterior Door Handle Carrier ( E53 ) | eBay

The carrier question on whether to use OE or aftermarket has been beaten to death here on the forum. Bottom Line: OE works and aligns correctly every time. The after market parts are hit or miss, as aligning the screws and getting the handle to align with the stationary door lock piece is always less than the OE part.

One is quick and simple while the alternative part is less expensive it comes with risks that can be overcome or cause more pain.

Good luck and glad to hear you are out of the cold.