The 3.0D was not sold in the USA -

Even in Texas its not possible lol

Anything can be had for a price.

^Considering you are in the last frontier of freedom, I believe you - :)

^ You are always welcome. Swap snow and taxes for a little bit of chaos and legitimate Tex-Mex cuisine. It'll be good for you.

Just an update. I was able to get the car barely thru inspection last year but now it is time to replace the catalytic converters. Both codes P0420 and P0430 show up after driving 100 miles and monitors no longer set for the car to pass inspection again. I also monitor for a year the post oxygen sensors and also the temp before/after cat. So, I got new Walker 16522 and 16523 for $1020 ($510 each) . I will be installing it soon. I am not looking forward doing this job due to very tight space. I will be removing the bottom stiffening plate and give all the exhaust nuts spray of PB Blaster.

The rear manifold, I can get to all the nuts. I am just hoping my arm is long enough to reach them with a socket.

The front manifold could be access from top and bottom. I saw a video someone got to them from the side by removing the plastic fender well. I will see if I have to go this route.

Anyway, here are the pictures of the new (manufacture date 2013) catalytic converters. I also got 16 brand new copper plated nuts (or are they true copper?)

Update: both catalytic converters removed from the car. Unfortunately, most of the studs are rusted out that 14 out of 16 studs came off the cylinder head. New studs already ordered.

I also have to return the catalytic converters since I ordered Walker but got Eastern. Box label is correct but part is incorrect. Ordered Walker from another online store.

Engine does not burn coolant and no misfire but it burns oil.

For the owners who have emissions and replaced their catalytic converters, how many miles would a decent cat converter (Eastern) lasts if engine burns oil 1qt/1000 miles?

Replaced catalytic converters and passed emissions.

So how DID you get those off? I find this job to be horrible, but not as horrible as driving a MKV Jetta with no A/C.


I for sure rounded one of the nuts off, and it looks like you have to take the entire exhaust off to get clearance to slide the manifolds out. Those stupid heat shields on the manifold gaskets do nothing but get in the way. Oh yes, they tear my gloves.


If I ever get the OEMs off, my plan is test fit the new headers, mark those for aftermarket cats, and chop and weld. Should be horrible.

Yes, heatshields get in the way but doable. There are blind nuts but not impossible to get at. You will need deep socket, regular socket, different length extensions 1/4" and 3/8" socket drivers and sockets. I think the flange bolts are 14mm not sure

Here is how I remove the catalytic converters as i remember it:

1. Put car on ramps (all 4 wheels). If you have access to a lift better
2. Remove the metal plate shield from under the car using 16mm socket
3. From the engine bay, empty and remove the windshield washer tank
4. Remove the EGR valve. (be ready to break that little plastic vacuum tube that runs to the back of the car. Also I broke the pipe that goes to the emission air pump so be ready to have a replacement available also.
5. Remove all four Oxygen sensors (mark all connectors/plugs)
6. Once you have all the items out of the way, you will have more access to all 16 nuts
7. Before doing the work, spray PB blasters on all 16 nuts and let it soak. I keep spraying for a few days to make sure. You can spray all of them from top and under the car.
8. Spray also the four bolts by the flange.
9. Start with the top nuts going from front to back. There will be 8 nuts and you will see that you can only remove maybe 5 or 6 of them. (Don't worry you can get the rest of the top nuts from under the car)
10. Continue removing the bottom nuts from the front catalytic converter.
11. go under the car and remove all four flange bolts
12. From under the car, pull out the front catalytic converter by twisting/turning it until it clears. The swaybar might be in the way so may have to loosen/remove the rubber mounts.
13. Now with more room, remove the rest of the nuts from the rear catalytic converter.
14. Do the steps in reverse to install the converters. But in your case, a new header. I was thinking about this route but my state has emissions so a little fabrication is required to fit dual cats. Also the wiring for the Oxygen sensors need to be lengthened. For me, too much work IMHO.

Note: You will see that most of the studs will come off from the cylinder head. In my case 14/16 came out so I decided to replace all of them with brand new studs and nuts. The studs coming off was a blessing since it makes removing the manifolds a lot easier.


It will be difficult to place and insert new studs on the cylinder head. There is no way to know if the studs are all in correctly; if they in deep enough. Also impossible to install the catalytic converters with those studs sticking out.

Here's what I did:

I have prepped the nuts and studs to be "together" using the old studs/nuts as a guide. What I meant by that is I threaded all the nuts on the studs and then insert them one by one as I mount the catalytic converters in place. Start each nut/stud by hand first to make sure they are going in straight. It will be bad news cross threading the aluminum cylinder head

If you find the nut to be turning instead of the whole stud/nut, use "double" nut then remove the extra nut afterwards.


P.S. I use anti seize on all the studs.
Revised: Removed the size of the nut and provided the nuts/studs links for 2001 BMW X5 3.0i:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/11721437202/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Goodluck.