Lemforder suspension kit. How much to DIY?
 

Just replaced rear shocks today, suspension noise coming from the other parts is insane...ever since I lowered it it has gone downhill very fast..I'm not surprised. I'm embarrassed to drive the car any longer...
I'm planning to get this kit: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...e53-x520piecel
And the subframe bushings to get it all done once and for all.

Anyhow, how much can I do on my own ? I have read rear ball joints and subframe bushings are a pain and better left to the ones that have the tools...but is everything else pretty simple and straightforward?
I remember TMV has done his 4.8 with a Meyle kit if I'm not mistaken, if he could chime in on this that would be great.
Thanks

You ring? :D
You can pretty much DIY all of them. I have the rear ball joint tool that you can borrow.
Haven't had the subframe bushings done yet but by the look of it, shouldn't be that hard.
Make sure to set aside plenty of time to have this done, just in case you run into issue, and have another vehicle to drive in the mean time.

man you're fast lol
was it a pain to take those ball joints out? I'd like to rent it from you im just not sure what to tackle first.
ya a second vehicle is a must, you think 2 days worth of work? or more?
Appreciate the help man!

I just did everything in December, all in my garage. I have the rear ball joint tool if you want to borrow it.

Note, I installed poly bushings everywhere so I only need to press out old bushings. New ones went in by hand. The trickiest part was getting out the old rear lower control arm bushings. Those were really fused in there.

I took me about two days working slowly and cleaning as I went.

This project is not that difficult. All the bolts just need to be soaked now and turn them later is what is most required. The rear ball joints are the same set up as every E39, in fact you will find that everything looks like an E39 but just a tad larger, beefier, and thicker. Same processes for parts removal is required. There are lots of Videos out there to see the process.
Tip: Do the whole front first then move to the rear.

Using the ball joint tool makes pushing out the old and inserting the new part simple. It takes 1 hr to do the first side and 20 mins the second side. Just remember that you are pushing the entire joint into the pocket of the tool, so use the correct tool cup. If it binds, STOP and review. They push out TOWARDS the front of the vehicle and there is a C clip that needs to be removed before it will slide forward. Hit it with a punch and a small screw driver tip. WD-40 or PB Blaster etc all the way out and the new one in.

Good luck!

Josh I might take you up on that offer since you are local. I appreciate the help!
Once I get the suspension parts , I'll shoot you a PM and we can meet up somewhere convenient for you. Will keep in touch!

Thanks Stephen, that's encouraging.
Also thanks for the tip!

Sounds good! Depending on time I may be able to lend as hand as well if needed. Send me a PM when you're ready.

Did this on mine in phases. Front first then rear. Had to purchase special tool for the rear ball joint. The generic tool doesn't work. Don't waste your money. There is a bolster on the carrier that needs a flat spot on the tool to work. The generic tool doesn't have it so won't work. I dropped $300 for the tool that works after trying to make the generic tool work for two hours. Using the right tool it took 10 minutes to remove the old ball joint and install the new. I will sell the tool after I do the suspension refresh on the wifes's X.

I also changed the subframe bushings. You need a tool for that too. Truck rides and drives much better after the full refresh. They could align my rear wheels as well.

^glad to hear. Yeah I wasn't planning on going at it without the tools required.
Thanks for your insight!

Did you also do poly for the subframe bushings? If so, how does it ride?

I am also curious how the poly bushings in the rest of the suspension changed the overall ride quality, given how you have an MT as well. I guess I am hoping it make it more sporting.

I have the sport suspension on my 5mt and it seems to ride kind of stiff, even with 18 inch wheels.

Yes, I also did poly subframe bushings. With my BC Racing coilovers set to 0 and the bushings, it doesn't really ride any stiffer than the stock sport suspension (which was already stiff imo). When throwing it in the corners it's very composed and pretty fun to drive. It's a lot closer to a car than the SUV it was before.

I may be needing to borrow the rear ball joint too in the coming months, I'm approaching 100k and only the subframe bushings (Meyle HD) and rear sway bar bushings and links have been done -

After my 4 corner brake overhaul I think its on to the rear suspension, front was done about 20k miles ago

You've got my info!

Your biggest challenge with the front end stuff is going to be the front tension arm ball joints. They suck! Pre-soak them good, and be prepared to have the blue tipped wrench at the ready. It took me (don't laugh) 6 hours for the driver's side and 4 hours I think to get the passenger's side off. They like to literally freeze/weld/corrode themselves into the knuckle.

Other than that it's pretty straight forward stuff. Best of luck to you.

The FCP kit you mentioned above is very good.
It is all Lemforder.

I wrote a very detailed DIY REAR and FRONT suspension overhaul for my E39 1998 528i on bimmerfest.

Anyway, the DIY REAR suspension overhaul for my E39 1998 528i, which is very very similar to E53 X5, is below:

DIY: 1998 BMW 528i Complete REAR Suspension Overhaul - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

Thx Crystal, check this out. It looks like a life saver in those kind of situations:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_YO_snrzYrs

Thanks Cn90 I have used your DIY as a reference in the past.Very detailed and easy to understand.
Matter of fact, last night when I torqued down the top strut nuts I was looking for the torque values and used your picture for reference.
Thanks again!

^Wow. I don't want to know how much that costs because in my head I'm telling myself it's too expensive to justify replacing the good old torch. ;)

Around 450$
Nice thing is they have attachments for pretty much every size bolt, bearings etc
Made in USA
LOL I sound like I work for them.

I plan on using an air rachet (max 90 ft lbs) and an impact wrench as well when I do this. Will this make those bolts easier to get off or is the space to tight to even use an air ratchet? When I removed my steel plate underneath I had no choice but to use an impact wrench since the bolts seemed like they were welded on. The breaker bar did nothing. They came loose in about ten seconds each with the impact tool. I decided right there that is how I doing most jobs.

Rebuilding suspensions is straightforward but it is one of those projects that seldom goes smoothly. The key is to invest in the proper tools. Chain auto parts stores will 'rent' tools but I haven't found any that are designed to work on a BMW. Usually at least one part that has to be pressed will be big trouble and the shortcoming of the generic tool will rear its ugly head and hold you up until you buy what you need. I suggest investing some of the $$$ saved on labor to purchase correct tools. You can never have too many tools.

I borrowed an air hammer to remove my front ball joints but I ended up not needing it. They came out with a quick tap of a mallet.

Hi Joshdub,

After tackling my front suspension rebuild last month, I've got all my rear suspension components ordered (including CV axles) to rebuild the rear and put a lot of distance between me and any worn out suspension components. I will PM you to see if I could borrow your ball joint tool.

I'm going with the conventional rubber subframe bushings for budget constraints so if anyone has the press tool for those that could help me please let me know or point me to a link where I can buy it.

Thanks all.

Mike

The rear ball joint tool is one of those tools. The generic/universal tools WILL NOT work on the X5. There is a bolster on the carrier that needs a flat spot in the tool so it will fit. After fighting with the universal tool I bought for an hour I gave up and ordered the proper tool. Yes, it was expensive, but I had the old ball joints out and new ones in inside of 20 minutes. Would have been faster except for a little bit of learning curve for using the tool.

My rear balljoint were so seized that I would've broke the rod that comes with the tool kit. I had to get creative and use the big Snap-On press tool and use an impact gun to drive them out and push the new one in. It worked a little better putting some heat on the spindle to get it to expand...

What's the general feeling about changing the bushings in the rear lower arm?

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/4IQAAO...L-/s-l1600.jpg

Thanks for any insight.

Mike

I think you should do them. At @ 30$/piece it's a no brainer...should be fairly easy to remove them.

I did it. You just have to make sure you take it to a machine shop that knows what they're doing. Those bushings have to be compressed before being inserted into the swing arm.

Please say more Fifty150hs.

How would you describe the process to be followed?

Thanks.

Mike

I've found the PNs for the rear lower arm bushings

They appear to be:

33326754557 Febest @ $22ea

and

33326754558 Febest @ $15ea

Suspension Control Arm Bushing For 2007 BMW 550i (USA) | eBay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suspension-C...3D281482889831

I'm going to go with these.

Mike

I wasn't in the machine shop when the machinist did the actual work. I purchased the bushings and if you do it you will see they are larger than the opening they go into on the swing arm. From what I saw at the machine shop he used hose clamps to compress the bushings to the right size before pushing them into place. He had a problem with one of them and I had to get another one as it was damaged when the method he was using to compress slipped but the ram kept moving and totally distorted the bushing.

Bought mine from FCP Euro. Lemforder. OEM

Thanks Fifty150hs. Those are helpful watch outs.

Mike

Wow. That's surprising. I can understand problems getting an old ball joint out, but not putting a new one in.

For installing the new rear ball joints, I had left them in the freezer for about a week before I installed them. They were frozen and slid right into place with the tool.

As far as the rear control arm bushings, I used a hole saw to cut out the inner sleeve, then a sawzall to cut the out ring of the old bushing. Then knocked it out with a hammer and punch. They were so seized that I couldn't get them pressed out. I installed poly ones so I have no advice there.

Hi Josh,

Great tip about the hole saw and sawzall.

Do you have a link for the poly units you sourced?

Thanks,

Mike

Just a word of advice you might need some heat for some of the bolts and you impact wont get into every place.

I did my front and rear(including wheel bearings) with no prior experience.

get a heat matt(or 2) so you can shield things.

I didn't have any problems getting the ball joint out with a BFH and a punch.

Good luck

Thanks Biggeek :thumbup:

Yeah, I've got a fair amount of suspension experience, just not on the E53. I did the complete front end including CV joints, ball joints and tension bushings last month. Now tackling the rear suspension so all the running gear will be capable of delivering another 100K trouble free.

I have air impact tools, heat torch, a BFH and plenty of PB Blaster. Parts are inbound now and I have to select and order a subframe bushing tool. Maybe I will get the Amazon one

https://www.amazon.com/Suspension-Su.../dp/B017F4NVBI

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1ba5IEOoeL.jpg

It seems to be a slam dunk with this thing and I didn't go poly because of cost so I gotta press out and press in.

Mike

That's the right tool for the job. That's what I use.

The disassembly has begun

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qe...=w1187-h890-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Mj...w=w668-h890-no

Going with poly in the lower control arm so I don't have to compress and press in the OE style.

Getting an axle remover from AutoZone to get the axle out for replacement. The outboard boot is very brittle and feels like it could crack at any time.

I broke my "Touch It Once" rule when I changed the rear air bag springs. Kick myself now because the tear out of the trunk in a real tedious PITA. So it's all getting done now! Even the 8 year old battery is coming out for a Duracell AGM H8 from Sam's club at $169.

I hope I can get that tool in there above the exhaust hangar. Dunno if my propane torch will be hot enough to bend that arm. Will find out.


Mike

My propene torch was hot enough. You don't need to bend it much. I used a deep socket and extension for leverage to bend it.

Great tips Josh!

I feel less anxiety now. :thumbup:

Thanks.

Mike

The rear end deconstruction is almost complete. Waiting for UPS to deliver the bushing removal tool and then I have to push out the lower control arm bushings to receive the poly units.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Zc...w=w668-h890-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/W5...Q=w668-h890-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eH...Q=w668-h890-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jJ...=w1187-h890-no

I see a crack in the parking brake shoe so I may get new shoes on there while I'm at it.

Mike

I am having palpatations looking at those pics it reminds me of when I did my front wheel bearings LOL

After tackling one rear lower ball joint, I am not at all looking forward to any wheel bearing pressing.

Even with the exact proper ball joint pressing tool, it was a battle. :wow:

Mike

Maintenance work is annoying. Did the new balljoints at least press in easily?

Sadly, even with the specific tool for the E53 rear ball joint, the new one wanted to go in cocked, no matter how many times I tried to straighten it. Brute force ultimately prevailed.

These press in and press out items are the biggest PITA in maintenance.

Had to go to my Indy mechanic and toss him a $20 to have him use his press and adapters to get the lower control arm bushings out. And his is a 20 Ton stand!

No AutoZone tool available to do the ball joints or the bushings jobs. :pullhair:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DW...=w1187-h890-no

The work on the passenger side continues. :wow:

Mike

That Lemforder kit posted in the original is much cheaper now than 8 years ago when I did the front and rear suspension on my 1998 528i (E39).
As the cars (E39, E53) are getting older, parts, even Lemforder, are cheaper.

Tips and tricks are below for E39, E53 is almost the same...


DIY: 1998 BMW 528i COMPLETE FRONT SUSPENSION OVERHAUL
DIY: 1998 BMW 528i COMPLETE FRONT SUSPENSION OVERHAUL - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums


DIY: 1998 BMW 528i Complete REAR Suspension Overhaul
DIY: 1998 BMW 528i Complete REAR Suspension Overhaul - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

Great DIY links.

The rear suspension torques are especially timely :thumbup:

Thanks,

Mike

PSB Bushings arrived today and I buttoned up the passenger side.

I peeked at the subframe bushings and they look in excellent shape, so I'll leave them in for now and tackle them on down the road sometime.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7...A=w666-h888-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CZ...=w1184-h888-no

Mike

Driver side deconstructed tonight.

Tomorrow will take the lower control arm to the indy for bushing press out and remove the CV axle, press out old ball joint and press in new one, and button it all up hopefully by tomorrow night.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ai...A=w665-h886-no

This control arm was very tired

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ox...Q=w665-h886-no

Maybe a wheel alignment on Saturday :dunno:

Mike

Got to the alignment shop on Monday with all my new suspension parts and CV axles.

Rear camber was unable to be put into spec with the eccentric. They got 3.0* and 3.8*.

So I am in the hunt for some adjustable arms and have found these and have them on order http://www.hardrace.com/UploadFile/P...816F1Q18RZ.jpg

HARDRACE GLOBAL - REAR UPPER CAMBER KIT?8685

All I can figure is that the upper camber arms I got may have been a wee bit too short to spec. They are aftermarket arms so that could be the cause. I have no way to compare and wasn't about to spring the bucks for a BMW factory arm.

The adjustable arms will allow me to fine tune the rear anyway.

Mike

You went with Lemfoerder rear upper control arms, right? If so, I used those with no problem. Was there some other aftermarket parts you used that may have caused the camber problems?

I would investigate more carefully to figure out why it's not alignable before going with an aftermarket adjustable arm like that. You might just be covering up a problem.

BTW on the camber alignment, you're talking almost 4 degrees there. It is a huge amount, and will be very easy to check yourself. You can make the camber adjustments (setting to their limits) yourself, and then measure camber yourself using an L-square or any right angle you can find. Not splitting hairs here. 4 degrees is yuge, should be visible just standing there looking at it. Before my rebuild, the lowest camber I could get was about 2.8* negative, but afterwards, I could get it as low as I wanted, and had the shop dial it in to the low end of spec around 1.5* negative.

That might be helpful if you want to search around, loosen + re-torque things, etc. to find where you're losing the camber, rather than taking it in for repeated alignments while you're looking.

BTW, yes your guide links looked shot. Mine were fine, and are still on there at 180k miles. When I did my work on the rear, I replaced some things that were fine but buried deep, like the integral links, and kept others, like the guide links, that I knew could be easily replaced if/when they ever actually fail. I would have replaced the swing arm bushings had I known that aftermarket versions were available.

Thanks for your insights Oldskewel.

Yes, I went with a lower grade of camber arm (Karlyn). Shame on me........and yes I can SEE the -3.8* of camber on the right rear. :wow:

I am committed to the adjustable arm and will use that to give me future flexibility as well. I'll be shooting for the low end of the spec as well -1.5*.

I changed my rear swing arm bushings out as well with polyurethane versions from PSB.

Mike

Did you change your rear ball joints?

Do you mind if I ask how much those control arms are? I was going to get some, but the only ones available at the time were ones with heim joints or a bajillion dollars.

Yes, a near complete rear suspension rebuild:

rear ball joints (and I have the sweat and beat up tools to prove that I r=pressed old out and new in :wow:)

Integral link

Toe arm

Camber arm

New poly swing arm bushings

New KYB shocks


Mike

I got them for $200!

He has a shipment coming in and was able to get them on his next shipment.

Call and ask for Mike and maybe he can get you a set :dunno:

Their US dealer is in Florida

BuyHardRace.com

561-844-1008

Mike

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CZ...=w1184-h888-no

Mike[/QUOTE]

What rotors are those? They look nice and aggressive.

Thanks! That's an excellent price

All suspension components that could impact camber have been replaced? And nothing else has been changed such as wheel diameter or spacers added?

What rotors are those? They look nice and aggressive.[/QUOTE]

Gosh, I've forgotten. Possibly Power Stop???? :dunno: :dunno:

Found them on eBay.

Mike

I believe that all the pieces that affect camber have been replaced unless you can think of one that I missed. I do think the camber arm is the bad actor.

Or the PSB poly bushings are to blame???? But that's hard to imagine.

Same wheels and tires and no spacers before or after :dunno:

Mike

Early in the thread there is a link to an FCP suspension rebuild kit. Check that for a list of what you did or didn't replace.

In post thirty-one there is an eBay link to swing arm bushings. Per the fitment chart the bushings are not for an X5.

FYI, Reducing negative camber by extending the adjustable links will cause the vehicle to sit higher.

That's exactly why I placed the order right away Josh! :thumbup:

Mike

Thanks bcredliner.

That swing arm bushing link is incorrect and I did not buy that one. I bought this front and rear swing arm kit:

BMW X5 E53 00-06 Rear Lower Arm Bush Kit Front & Rear Position x2 - PSB 653 654 | eBay

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/Zk0AAO...P0/s-l1600.jpg

Mike

And with those bushings, since the hole is in the center, there's really not much that could be wrong unless the hole diameters were significantly bigger than the bolt diameters. I'm sure you would have noticed if that were true.

It sounds to me like you have changed everything that could affect camber. And it's probably impossible to put things back together any way other than correctly. And it's doubtful that the Karlyn control arms would be out of spec just because they are a slightly lower brand. Any chance they shipped you the wrong Karlyn parts?

I guess if you're planning on putting in the adjustable arms, those Karlyn arms are coming out anyway. Hopefully you saved the originals for comparison. I think I still have mine somewhere, LOL. Why? No reason at all.

EDIT - at this point, I would also second guess the alignment shop. I'd get under there and loosen the camber eccentric bolt, and move it to minimize negative camber, and see if it was already there. Probably was, but you seem to be in one of those situations where nothing seems like it could be the answer - but the answer is there somewhere.

Even if hole is in the center if the surrounding bushing material will not support sitting suspension load it will move off center. Doubt that's the case but it is possible.

OK, so true confession time in hopes that this will help others doing the rear ball joint (BJ) bust out.

I discovered what was contributing to my crazy rear camber. The right rear BJ was the one I did first and try as I might (maybe first use of the specific BMW ball joint tool from an Xoutposter), that old BJ came out of the carrier offset. The new BJ went in the same way despite several attempts to correct the insertion angle. Upon final insertion of the new one a big chunk of carrier material appeared on the edge where the snap ring is placed. I did not think much of it at the time, however, I should have. Subsequently, despite the snap ring being in place the BJ slid out of the carrier :wow:

I disassembled the whole suspension again and pressed the Karlyn BJ back in, a clue was that very little pressure was required to reset it. And placed the snap ring in place again to no avail. The BJ slipped out again! :wow:

So, realizing that I had ruined the carrier on that side, I sourced a serviceable hub and carrier from ebay for $60 and purchased a new Meyle BJ and Lemforder integral link. Completed the swap of the carrier yesterday with AutoZone master BJ set which was just barely workable and I was careful not to drive the BJ in crooked. Because of the master set receiving cup interference on the carrier, it started to go in crooked, I adjusted the tool to provide opposing pressure on the higher side, which helped to drive it in straight.

Moral of the story is that driving your BJ in crooked risks ruining the carrier receiving diameter.

I'm still awaiting the adjustable camber arms which will allow for a more perfect tuning of the rear camber settings.

Confession is good for the soul and is also good for the community to keep others from falling into the same traps. :thumbup:

Mike

Even the best of trained techs have had days like that.

Thanks for being so kind bcredliner :thumbup:

Mike

You are not the first one to have this result. In many cases all the arm material comes out with the original BJ leaving an oval in the lower control arm. Leaving the only option of a new lower arm as well.

This is a well known issue on E39 applications as well as they share the same engineering design solution. Steel BJ in an aluminum arm. Oh well it beats a screw in one!

Thanks StephanVA!

I feel much better that it wasn't just me being a mechanical dunce :dunno:

After a decent run up the still under construction I35E from Lewisville to Denton, the new BJ is still in place in the replacement carrier. :thumbup:

Mike

Definitely thanks for posting your experience. More information about what can and does happen with repairs is always good for the community. Glad it's all sorted now and I bet the X5 feels great.

Thanks crystalworks!

Yes, it's a fantastic ride now!

Just can't wait to get the adjustable camber arms on and the rear camber set in spec.

Mike

Learn by doing
 

That you learn by doing is always a good thing. Posting experiences is what the forum is about. Basic learning is: trial, error, trial and succeed. Never take away the fact we all are learning as we go through these vehicles' lives. As you discovered, some parts are just as hard to reinstall as they were to take off! Good learning for us all. Congrats on the ride quality.

"Some learn while others just whine and move on to shinier objects."

I got my Camber arms and will be installing them this weekend

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VE...=w1187-h890-no

The unit has a turnbuckle type arrangement at the end two nuts and the rod end also threads in and out so plenty of adjustment available.

My plan is to extract the existing arm and then set the adjustable arm as closely as possible in length, then use the turnbuckle adjustment in the end to make the final adjustments.

Will finally be able to dial in the rear camber on my E53 :thumbup:

See here for sourcing https://xoutpost.com/1107900-post53.html


Mike

Interesting. How's the quality of the part?

The camber arms appear to be very robust and the rod end ball joint also appears very stout.

The finishing is also very good, in my humble opinion and they are proud enough of them to put a quality nameplate on them.

Mike

Those look interesting. Would prefer they were silver or black... but that's a personal thing.

How much were they? They weren't listed as available on their site... just had a wish list option.

They had to special order them

$200 shipped for the pair

Mike

Hardrace Camber Arms installed. I used the arm bolt to line up the new one and set the general length sizing. Adding a smudge extra length because I wanted less camber than the eccentric bolt could give me

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L...=w1187-h890-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d...w=w668-h890-no

I snipped the plastic pivot tab off the hose holder and strapped it on the new arms

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4f...=w1187-h890-no

While working on the passenger side arm the driver side airbag blew its top ring seal :bang head: an aftermarket part that I would have expected a little more life than less than a year.......GRRRR

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wY...g=w668-h890-no

Mike

Oooh Nice stainless steel brake lines mike. I've got a set to install on the X5 on the next brake service/upgrade.

Thanks Jay!

I put them on at the same time as I did the DOT 5.1 brake fluid flush.

The combination yielded a firmer pedal feel and more responsive braking for a given pedal pressure.

Love it.

Mike

Mike i think I am going to have to order a set of these for rear suspension refresh of the X5 4.6is. That blue looks very close to the blue of my brake calipers so this will set nicely underneath the X5.

Hi Jay,

The only reason I bought them was to bring my rear camber into spec. New camber arms, toe arms, ball joints and new lower control arm poly bushings left me with -3.0* on the left and -3.8* on the right.

But they do look good and I'm looking forward to in spec rear camber as soon as I get my replacement air bag ARGHHHHH.

IMHO, they'll make anyone's X5 look great :thumbup:

Mike

Why was it necessary to go to aftermarket parts to bring camber into spec?

Hi bcredliner,

This remains an unresolved mystery. To my knowledge (and CarFax's), there were no "reported" accidents.

The camber eccentric bolt at max adjustment would not bring camber into spec. Could it be the poly bushings that were used in the lower control arms????? Could it be the aftermarket camber arms??? Maybe, one or both contributed to the issue :dunno: :dunno:

At this point, I'm content to add the adjustable camber arm and get it back to the alignment shop to achieve the proper specs.

Not coincidentally, I have camber arms on my E46 and E90 (stock tire sizes). My empirical experience with three different BMW platforms suggests to my head that rear camber adjustments on the BMW suspensions are very touchy.

Having an adjustable aftermarket arm to compensate for variances in market parts and bushing wear is OK by me and alignment guys that have aligned my vehicles comment on how much easier it is for them to get things done in the rear with these turnbuckle style arms.

Other opinions may vary and that's cool by me. :thumbup:

:dunno: :dunno: :dunno:

Mike

Not challenging your decision, just wondering. I certainly agree, especially since it is very difficult to find a good alignment tech. Turnbuckle style would make it easier. I go to the same tech every time and worry he won't be there each time. He always complains about how difficult it is to get it right. I could tip him less if I had them.

Poly bushing shouldn't cause alignment problems It wouldn't take much deviation of camber arm specs to be the cause but have never heard that to be a problem with any supplier. Have heard that suspension parts from some suppliers fail quickly but not parts from brand name options.

I called Mike and he quoted me $200 for the camber arms and $155 for the toe arms... You didn't mean $200 for everything, right?! That being said, $355 total still seems to be a very good price if the quality is good. I am about to order them for myself.

BTW, I replaced my rear suspension too and still could not get my car close to factory alignment. I have BC coilovers and even raised my car to stockish height, but I believe my alignment specs were still around -2.8 to -3.0 degrees.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...5-e53rearkit-l

Hopefully this adjustable camber/toe kit fixes my problem. I'm dying to lower my 4.8is back down again and still be within stock alignment specs.

Hi D Unit,

DAMN! :wow: I didn't even know about the adjustable "TOE" arms.....:dunno:

Hope the Camber Arms get it done for me. I can see where the stock toe arm could possibly run out of adjustment on the eccentric bolt.

I'll know soon as I replace my air bag and get it to the alignment shop.

Mike

If I recall correctly, my camber max'd out when my toe max'd out. For me, it made sense to get both. I just ordered them, but they'll be here in a couple of weeks. Thanks so much for posting them because I almost bought the more expensive alternative.

Reducing negative camber increases toe. If you are maxed out for both IMO there is something worn or wrong with the suspension.

I can see getting the adjustable arms for racing convenience but if it was necessary to use these arms to get an X5 into specs the OE arms would be a different design than they are or none of use would be able to get alignment into specs.

I'm on BC coilovers... If I measured stock height, it's unite possible I could get back to proper alignment specs. My real goal is to be aggressively lowered with proper alignment specs.

Well my rear suspension saga continues.

The "new" aftermarket air bag spring that I installed on Sunday lasted about 50 miles and blew out at ~80mph on I35W. I knew what it was when it blew. DAMN!!!

The inner/lower sealing ring failed and blew the bladder around the spring base requiring the bladder to be cut to be removed. :wow: :wow:

I might just spend nearly 3X the price of this thing and buy an Arnott unit, still debating.......

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8r...k=w668-h890-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/C7...4=w668-h890-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bj...I=w668-h890-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wl...w=w668-h890-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IJ...k=w668-h890-no

Mike

seems like the added cost would be the reduced aggravation.

Yes, it was/is aggravating................

Mike

Bought and installed the Arnott bag to replace the Chinese aftermarket item and all remains well.

Also, after installing the Hardrace adjustable camber arms I just got the truck re-aligned and all was able to come into spec. A great feeling since putting new tires on and an upcoming big road trip soon.

Setting the rear up just by Mark 1 eyeball wasn't too bad for the couple hundred miles I had to drive around before getting to the alignment rack.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5m...w=w653-h890-no

Mike