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As for the electrical gremlins, That's weird that they go away with a good charge but then return (when the voltage drops below a certain point). I do know that the alternator in the 3.0 is located right bellow the power steering fluid reservoir and likes to go bad if it runs with a lot of fluid dripping on it. Wonder if that has anything to do with it? Put the battery on a charger and verify if the issue only occurs after the battery is charged. Resetting the computer was probably the factor that fixed it. But it wouldn't hurt to put a volt meter on the alternator and the battery and to see what's going on. One thing that I don't particularly enjoy hearing about are electrical issues that come and go like this. |
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Check the ignition switch and have it scanned for LKM fault codes. The light problems sound just like what we had and it took the $tealer three attempts to find the problem codes for the LKM in the dash memory!
So much for factory trained. |
The fuel issue sounds like the siphon pump o-ring failure. The siphon pump transfers fuel from one side of the saddle tank to the other side and it contains an o-ring that can get displaced. Once this o-ring is displaced, the siphon no longer works, so the car gets starved of fuel at about a 1/4 tank.
Member andrewwynn wrote a very thorough post on this issue: - https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...stic-help.html For the electrical issue, I agree that the first thing to check is the alternator - unlocking the OBC menu so you can view the alternator/battery voltage while driving is a great place to start. |
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Has 141k miles and with the fuel pump is it possible to change the O-ring or is it better to buy a new fuel pump?
Also this electrical problem started after I got a Coolant change is it possible that the shop could of pinched a harness/wire or posibbly got some coolant on something by accident? How can I check to see if the ignition switch is going bad? I thought it was cause the weather was changing it was giving me eltrical problem but bought new battery and still giving me problem. One thing I notice is it's like the computer not recognizing the usual problem it had when I Got it as well usually I have self Level suspsion message on my car as the air compressor in the back is off but now most of the time it does not say anything in the cluster no message about it also well check alt in a few hours |
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So what happen did you ended up buying a new one? And could you give a estimate on how much they charged you? |
This was back in 2004/2005 and we were still covered by warranty. Replacement was required. Part cost was $450 or thereabouts plus labor. We had no out of pocket charges. Hopefully one of our board techs can chime in with a more up to date estimate.
GL. |
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I had electrical problems too but read that changing the ignition switch would cure them. IT WORKED!!!! Wipers had stopped working, lighting.... I read that if there is a short in the ignition switch it screws up the computer when the car starts. It's fairly easy to fix, and the part is less than $100. Getting it exactly back together was a slight challenge. There's still a little gap on the side of the steering column. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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