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  #1  
Old 09-26-2017, 06:48 PM
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Last edited by Gio_mart; 11-27-2017 at 09:39 PM.
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  #2  
Old 09-26-2017, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Gio_mart View Post
after my x5 is 1/4 of tank it stops and shuts off looked around the forums and it is either the fuel filter or fuel pump so I changed the fuel filter first and that wasn't the problem. So I still have to change the fuel pump to see if this will fix the problem:
How many miles are on it now? We had this problem with our 3.0 auto a few years back. The X5 has a saddle tank under the back seats and sometimes the fuel pump has a hard time getting the last little bit of fuel from one side of the tank (roughly 1/4 tank like you stated) If the fuel filter is jammed it will do that (there should be a tube that connects one side to the other) but we also had the pump fail after about 200k miles.

As for the electrical gremlins, That's weird that they go away with a good charge but then return (when the voltage drops below a certain point). I do know that the alternator in the 3.0 is located right bellow the power steering fluid reservoir and likes to go bad if it runs with a lot of fluid dripping on it. Wonder if that has anything to do with it? Put the battery on a charger and verify if the issue only occurs after the battery is charged. Resetting the computer was probably the factor that fixed it. But it wouldn't hurt to put a volt meter on the alternator and the battery and to see what's going on. One thing that I don't particularly enjoy hearing about are electrical issues that come and go like this.
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  #3  
Old 09-26-2017, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Gio_mart View Post
So I bought a 2001 BMW X5 AC schnitzer couple months ago and instantly fell in love with it I had a couple other BMW but this was the one I want to keep. Will the problem started a little after I bought it

So first radio does not work have the navigation and after my x5 is 1/4 of tank it stops and shuts off looked around the forums and it is either the fuel filter or fuel pump so I changed the fuel filter first and that wasn't the problem. So I still have to change the fuel pump to see if this will fix the problem

Second problem started when I took it to a shop to get coolant change, after I pulled out my car blinker started to act funny. Later that night they stopped working in the cluster but work outside same with my high beams and fog lights they work they just don't show in cluster. Also they work when they want too sometimes everything works like normal except the radio! So I ended up charging the battery and reseting the computer and cluster problem went away for a day but came right back. I checked all the fuses and they all good. Took it back to the shop and they couldn't find anything. So I ended up buying a new battery and problem went away for couple days but came back):
You need to check the charging system to see if the alternator is puttiing out correctly.
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Old 09-26-2017, 11:19 PM
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Check the ignition switch and have it scanned for LKM fault codes. The light problems sound just like what we had and it took the $tealer three attempts to find the problem codes for the LKM in the dash memory!
So much for factory trained.
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Old 09-27-2017, 04:07 AM
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The fuel issue sounds like the siphon pump o-ring failure. The siphon pump transfers fuel from one side of the saddle tank to the other side and it contains an o-ring that can get displaced. Once this o-ring is displaced, the siphon no longer works, so the car gets starved of fuel at about a 1/4 tank.

Member andrewwynn wrote a very thorough post on this issue: -

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...stic-help.html

For the electrical issue, I agree that the first thing to check is the alternator - unlocking the OBC menu so you can view the alternator/battery voltage while driving is a great place to start.
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Old 09-27-2017, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
The fuel issue sounds like the siphon pump o-ring failure. The siphon pump transfers fuel from one side of the saddle tank to the other side and it contains an o-ring that can get displaced. Once this o-ring is displaced, the siphon no longer works, so the car gets starved of fuel at about a 1/4 tank.
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2002 E39 4.4i 540i Grey 6MT Sport
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  #7  
Old 09-27-2017, 07:03 AM
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Has 141k miles and with the fuel pump is it possible to change the O-ring or is it better to buy a new fuel pump?

Also this electrical problem started after I got a
Coolant change is it possible that the shop could of pinched a harness/wire or posibbly got some coolant on something by accident? How can I check to see if the ignition switch is going bad?

I thought it was cause the weather was changing it was giving me eltrical problem but bought new battery and still giving me problem. One thing I notice is it's like the computer not recognizing the usual problem it had when I
Got it as well usually I have self
Level suspsion message on my car as the air compressor in the back is off but now most of the time it does not say anything in the cluster no message about it also well check alt in a few hours
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Old 09-27-2017, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Zulu95 View Post
Check the ignition switch and have it scanned for LKM fault codes. The light problems sound just like what we had and it took the $tealer three attempts to find the problem codes for the LKM in the dash memory!
So much for factory trained.

So what happen did you ended up buying a new one? And could you give a estimate on how much they charged you?
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Old 09-27-2017, 07:22 AM
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This was back in 2004/2005 and we were still covered by warranty. Replacement was required. Part cost was $450 or thereabouts plus labor. We had no out of pocket charges. Hopefully one of our board techs can chime in with a more up to date estimate.
GL.
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Old 09-28-2017, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gio_mart View Post
So I bought a 2001 BMW X5 AC schnitzer couple months ago and instantly fell in love with it I had a couple other BMW but this was the one I want to keep. Will the problem started a little after I bought it



So first radio does not work have the navigation and after my x5 is 1/4 of tank it stops and shuts off looked around the forums and it is either the fuel filter or fuel pump so I changed the fuel filter first and that wasn't the problem. So I still have to change the fuel pump to see if this will fix the problem



Second problem started when I took it to a shop to get coolant change, after I pulled out my car blinker started to act funny. Later that night they stopped working in the cluster but work outside same with my high beams and fog lights they work they just don't show in cluster. Also they work when they want too sometimes everything works like normal except the radio! So I ended up charging the battery and reseting the computer and cluster problem went away for a day but came right back. I checked all the fuses and they all good. Took it back to the shop and they couldn't find anything. So I ended up buying a new battery and problem went away for couple days but came back):


I had electrical problems too but read that changing the ignition switch would cure them. IT WORKED!!!!

Wipers had stopped working, lighting.... I read that if there is a short in the ignition switch it screws up the computer when the car starts.

It's fairly easy to fix, and the part is less than $100. Getting it exactly back together was a slight challenge. There's still a little gap on the side of the steering column.


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