Would like to confirm current problem. Sounds like battery is fine and alternator is fine, right? It's starting and charging normally?

Problem is that trans failsafe light is still on?

I was doing Lighting driver design at the time. I needed two. One for current one for voltage or at times voltage in and voltage out. I was able to procure one at a 40% discount and one for maybe 33% off. I was doing work with higher frequency stuff and the original 87 wasn't up to snuff. I sold the two older ones a while back for $125 and $150. Great deal for a 87III. I think I paid about $180 for my original 87, used it for 12-15 years and sold for $125. Not bad.

you are correct about hundred and if you don't need it for work I recommend meters for about $40/60. Spend maybe $100-120 for a low end fluke it will last decades. My dad's 77 lasted at least 20/25 years.


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Also as it's easy to check and was the cause of my transmission failsafe, make sure your alternator nut is tight, by the time I figured out mine was loose it actually fell off.


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On the fluke meters I have a few but I don't use them much. They are bulkier than my radio shack meters and lack the features and backlighting that my radio shack ones have.

Now these are not the $10 radio shack meters either I paid $300 for each one of them and they very accurate and have held up very well. I keep them in the vehicles.

I just looked and the fluke that's laying on my desk here is a fluke 77. Old but reliable just bulky.

:thumbup:

My alternator nut was tight (this one?), I tightened it as much as I could, cleared the faults, and started. Still getting the Trans Failsafe!

Whilst I tightened the nut, I checked my electrical harness and all seems to be plugged in correctly.

I'm getting the P0102 fault continually. As mentioned, I don't yet have a voltmeter

Please help- what is my next option here? Any point in buying a new MAF?

Now that the alternator nut is tight. Try disconnecting your battery for 15 minutes, then reconnect.

That was the nut. Did you try the reset procedure that apparently worked for me? I have the basic dash so I only had the icon for failsafe so it could be different however I had instant satisfaction. I do have '01 model so age may be a factor. One step at a time worry about the biggest problem and work down through them.


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Yep that is all correct. Just the trans fail-safe light! And, not sure if it's related, unplugging the MAF keeps the engine running.

The nut was tight already, but tightened it more and disconnected battery (positive and negative terminals in boot, positive in engine bay).

And STILL the trans fail-safe error.

I couldn't locate the procedure you did- could you tell me?

Also, I thought the fact my Engine runs after the MAF is disconnected could mean the MAF is causing the trans fail-safe? Or will trans fail-safe mode keep the engine running even if the MAF is working?