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well update, not the TCU, pulled the fuse on it, 3-4days no driving, battery voltage down to 9.45v will look into the FSR :(
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AS this drags on, I am betting on a aftermarket radio part "upgrade fail. If not, a 15 year old radio/phone/amp failure.
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sorry if this dragged on, this seemed to be the only thread that has been active in the last couple of months. But no aftermarket bodged installs, all OE kit, tv, phone, cd, nav all functioning normally. pulled out FSR to double check model numbers, put back in, did a parasitic drawer once current stabilised after computer shut down drawing 0.02 which seems negligible to me, nothing changed pulling fuses and relays. Don't worry I won't let it drag on, ill look for answer elsewhere.
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You are on the right path.
Question: Try turning on all the power drain (radio, heaters, blowers, etc) then let it shut down as one or two may stay on once in a while. |
On a second thought, Pull the auto alarm fuses and see what happens.
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What about the power drawn by the light sensor in the grid by the TPS, DSC, etc. switches? Does it sample light in the cabin constantly:dunno: but if so could it produce enough of a drain to cause these faults and keep the system from sleeping?
Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk |
20mA is not going to drain a battery you are describing classic example of self drain. Especially if a battery was ever left for a period of time at a state of deicharge, it will set up a condition where it is shorted out inside between the plates and will drain all by itself.
You can confirm by charging the battery leave it disconnected then measure the voltage after a day or three. |
Parasitic draw sometimes
Has anyone found fixes to there parasitic draws? Mine to does not happen all the time after car is asleep. It's driving me Fargon crazy!
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I got you.
Thanks. It's such an annoying Gremlin. I'm on my third new battery in two months. Thank Walmart for their free 3 year exchange policy. My first parasitic draw problem came from water in the trunk. I found the problem in the rear pano-roof drains, and I zip tied the hoses by the two drains. Unfortunately my ibus, and Amp were under water. The short also took out my LCM. A sign of the ibus broken is turn signals or lights work outside and not on the instrument cluster. Other signs of LCM problems I believe is hazards, high beams, door locks, and turn signals. My high beams had stopped working. Make sure you get the right LCM, theres one with Halogen and one without. Buying the right one and it supercedes your old one is fine, that's what I did. Look at RealOem.com, for reference. Make sure you put in your production month. You need a $80 programmer so a dot doesn't show by your tripodometer. I do not know if it would set off a TMU at inspection. I did not want to take a chance. There are YouTube vids on it. It has taught me a lot about troubleshooting and building my confidence.. This last draw is a real Beach! I suggest anyone reading this with similar problems to get a amp clamp with readout on bottom as well for parasitic draw diagnosing and a decent $150ish smart x5 e53 reader. They say 16 minutes for our truck to fall asleep, but I suggest 30. If you see water on the back right there will be water on the back left as well. I hope I helped at least one person from getting ripped off from a stealership or repair shop. My first parasitic draw I had 10 years ago, a shop charged me an arm and a leg to diagnose a bad stock radio head.
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