Yes it is windows based but it runs perfectly in a windows XP virtual machine on my macbook pro using virtual box.

The cables are all the same, get the software from google.

Thank you so much. I'll go begin the search and purchase. I am sure it will help with my intermittent ABS Trifecta light issue and maybe if I am lucky, it will turn off the canceled rear air suspension light. Great news.

With inpa and BMw Easy Tools comes all the software you need to recode your car but maybe start slow and easy and also get the BMW Scanner cable which will allow you to use PA Soft 1.4 (that I can email you if needed) which will allow you to do some light coding and clear errors easily.
Don't abandon the INPA cable for the PA Soft, INPA and NCS Expert allow you way more information than PA Soft but PA Soft is friendlier for simple coding like DRLs and auto lock when driving.

woah, slow down, I am old dude, new to all this techno BMW stuff. I started on E30's. But it's all good. If I understand correctly, I buy a INPA cable which on eBay comes with a software disc. I download Virtual box and then the INPA stuff. I connect to my MacBook pro and voila I can read codes etc. BUT, if I want to do some simple code changes to my X5 I should get a PA Soft1.4 scanner cable? The only thing I want to code off is the suspension light since I now use a coil springs suspension and dumped the air. Right now, I use the old school black out method. Electric tape. LOL.

You will need to download windows and install it in virtual box. There are many ways to get windows, either an old disc or downloads.

Once you have it installed in Virtual Box, you install BMW Easy Tools (no need to use the disc that came with the cable, most are full of viruses)

Once its installed, you're ready to go.

PA Soft will not code suspension. you can ignore it.

Youtube and google will show you how to set up everything.

Scourtad, thanks for all the important information. I have access to Windows stuff, bro is IT expert. Thanks for the warning on virus discs. Good to know. So, you must love living in Geneva. Nice. I'll start buying the stuff and I imagine I can connect and download car information real time while driving around? I read somewhere you get a different list of things during driving under load than at idle. Do you find that to be true?

I am a MacBook also -
I portioned the hard drive with bootcamp and have my BMW software on Windows 7 through a "virtual machine". Going to give Virtual Box a try this weekend - THANKS for posting that.

Also I have smartphone app - OBD Fusion and an EBay OBD2 wifi/Bluetooth (little black box that plugs in under the dash). Lets you read and clear codes, and real time diagnostic and performance info while your driving -(yeah, pull over when your working on it). Setup about $25. Not including the iPhone Or Android

Thus far,I don't think your symptoms are indicating a major problem. Engine is running fine, MPG are good, oil consumption is a little high but not outrageous. The only symptom you have mentioned is that you are losing a small amount of coolant and thus far have not found the source of the leak. What is a small amount and over how many miles?

FYI, it is easy to overfill the expansion tank. The float is as high as it will go well before the tank is full. If it is overfilled when the engine is at operating temp that excess will be pushed out.

If there is any smoke coming out of the exhaust note the color. White=coolant, blue=oil. Coolant has a distinct sweet smell. If the coolant leak is internal it has to go somewhere. You have no indication it is getting into the oil. Often you can smell a coolant leak when you first shut off the engine if you are in closed area where it builds up some in a few minutes.

IMO you should still be looking for an external leak by checking the engine for coolant traces when the engine is stone cold and when it has been at operating temperature, searching both when the engine is running and not running. Suggest you start at the top of the engine using a very strong small flashlight because that's easiest to do. Obviously, you will have to remove the engine cover. If you don't find anything it is time to look under the engine. Best to clean as much of engine with a degreaser before looking. It will be necessary to remove the plastic cover under the engine and may be necessary to remove the metal skid plate to be sure you have completely eliminated the leak is not external but I wouldn't do that initially. I don't recall every having to use a pressure tester. You may not find any liquid but a leak will leave a whitish trail to the source. If you see a trail, clean it off and check a few days later to see if it returns.

INPA suite is good to have if you use it fairly frequently. I have it but very very seldom use it. I don't find it intuitive at all. I have to start the learning process over every time. In addition, to pinpoint a problem one has to be able to interprt the data. There are lots of good code readers and apps such a Torque that will show you real time information that I find very easy to use but at this point I would use old school troubleshooting.

If you go INPA route many of us have used the vendor from Rumeria without any virus issues. It takes a lot of space. I have it loaded on an external hard drive.