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Window Regulator Longevity - Pro Tip
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3rd time replacing my driver front window regulator. Total pain in the ass wrangling them in and out. Got a tip on the Facebook forum to spray silicone lube in the window channels. Along with copious amounts of lithium grease on the regulator tracks must say the window now glides much more effortlessly. Also applied to the other 3 windows as preventative measure.
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What brand of regulator are you using? What is the point of failure?
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Seems that the cable always gets snagged / spaghettied somehow. I've used OE and cheap Chinese don't seem to matter.
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Jbweld will make it last... possibly forever.
It may fail somewhere else but it wont fail where you jbweld it. |
Just ordered a URO "Premium" regulator. It has ball bearings in the cable guides instead of a bushing. Plan is to lubricate this with Triflow. I think lithium grease is a good idea, but it's too thick for use in northern climates (it's about 10F outside now) where it will harden over time.
I normally steer clear of URO stuff, but the video on Rockauto was pretty convincing. |
3rd regulator on the same door? How long have you owned your X?
Also, curious, do you open/close your doors with the windows down? I've read that does/might cause extra stress on the regulators? Never experienced a re-failure myself, but thought I would ask. |
@scott zhp Lubriplate at one time made some low temp white grease that was great down to -40 C/F. I used it in the chain case of my sled back in the day. It actually didn't seem to seperate as much as the regular stuff either. I think what happens to the bowden cables(same as what happens with the door handles) is that the cable lining gets a grove worn into it and then the slightest bit of moisture freezes the cable into the grove.
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Somewhere there's a "rubber glove fingertip" mod for the cable end to keep moisture out. You snip the finger off a heavy duty nitrile glove, fill it with your grease of choice and seal the end of the cable. Made me laugh, but I bet it works. |
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