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kevinkay 01-29-2018 12:41 PM

I had my gage on the Schrader valve, turn key to start pump, let it sit (maybe 1/2 hour), watched valve pressure drop - no injector leaks. BUT also at the time of my test I was ignorant to know that the pump does not keep running if it knows eng. is not running (I kept the key turned thinking it was constant pump).
Also checked the rubber vac line on both the filter and eng side.
Also entertained the thought that I switched the lines on the filter (return and in), checked and re-check that (what a PAIN to drop that cover). One is blue, one is black, pulled up the back seat and cover to see return line.

ruled out faulty parts as I did this in order -
1.new fuel filter
2. new fuel pump (felt with milage/age doing this as maintenance was wise)
3. another new fuel filter (thinking I got a bad one)
all quality OEM

I don't believe I have any rail leaks, no smell or evidence.

So I sorta gave up on this issue maybe about a year before until this new Bank 2 rich code showed up. Not sure if its related

TAHNKS!

upallnight 01-29-2018 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevinkay (Post 1127547)
I had my gage on the Schrader valve, turn key to start pump, let it sit (maybe 1/2 hour), watched valve pressure drop - no injector leaks. BUT also at the time of my test I was ignorant to know that the pump does not keep running if it knows eng. is not running (I kept the key turned thinking it was constant pump).
Also checked the rubber vac line on both the filter and eng side.
Also entertained the thought that I switched the lines on the filter (return and in), checked and re-check that (what a PAIN to drop that cover). One is blue, one is black, pulled up the back seat and cover to see return line.

ruled out faulty parts as I did this in order -
1.new fuel filter
2. new fuel pump (felt with milage/age doing this as maintenance was wise)
3. another new fuel filter (thinking I got a bad one)
all quality OEM

I don't believe I have any rail leaks, no smell or evidence.

So I sorta gave up on this issue maybe about a year before until this new Bank 2 rich code showed up. Not sure if its related

TAHNKS!

Didn't you state in another post that the pressure was almost down to nothing after 5 minutes after you turned off the engine?

e39_touring 01-29-2018 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevinkay (Post 1127547)
I had my gage on the Schrader valve, turn key to start pump, let it sit (maybe 1/2 hour), watched valve pressure drop - no injector leaks. BUT also at the time of my test I was ignorant to know that the pump does not keep running if it knows eng. is not running (I kept the key turned thinking it was constant pump).
Also checked the rubber vac line on both the filter and eng side.
Also entertained the thought that I switched the lines on the filter (return and in), checked and re-check that (what a PAIN to drop that cover). One is blue, one is black, pulled up the back seat and cover to see return line.

ruled out faulty parts as I did this in order -
1.new fuel filter
2. new fuel pump (felt with milage/age doing this as maintenance was wise)
3. another new fuel filter (thinking I got a bad one)
all quality OEM

I don't believe I have any rail leaks, no smell or evidence.

So I sorta gave up on this issue maybe about a year before until this new Bank 2 rich code showed up. Not sure if its related

TAHNKS!

How often are you getting that bank 2 rich code? Is it setting the check engine light?

I have this same code on our '05, but it's also throwing a code for a failed functional check TEV valve, which I think may be related in my case. The TEV is akin to a canister purge valve where it vents fumes from the gas tank back into the engine. When that valve is open, the ECM expects the mixture to go lean momentarily, and if the valve is stuck, there will be a temporary rich condition instead. I haven't had time to fully diagnose this one, but my point in bringing it up is that there are a lot of other things, seemingly unrelated, that can trigger your code.

Also, are you using a generic OBD reader or BMW tool like INPA? INPA will give you a lot of information with the code like the engine hours when it set as well as related non-emissions codes that don't have a corresponding OBDII code.

andrewwynn 01-29-2018 01:22 PM

I would definitely check any fuel venting (cap should have vacuum when removing).

Pump runs about 3 seconds when key turned to position one. It relies on the check valve in the pump to hold pressure.

The FPR also must have a check valve and if that is bad I suspect leak goes back to tank: you can use a hose pinch tool to prevent return to the tank to eliminate fpr leak from the equation.

You can also do that for the pump check valve.

Eg: pump on then immediately add the hose pinch to both Supply and return lines.

If pressure holds it's FPR or pump if doesn't it's engine side

If pressure holds release one of the pinch tools to determine if FPR or pump.

kevinkay 01-29-2018 01:27 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Thats interesting.......my original "service eng soon" light was due to purge valve. (valve in front of eng). I replaced it with cheep Ebay valve. Got the code again, replace with OEM. soon after - this P1093 code showed up. I tested the valve with voltage and can hear it click open/close.

I have used the more sophisticated code tools on my laptop (also P1093), but since using OBD fusion

e39_touring 01-29-2018 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevinkay (Post 1127558)
Thats interesting.......my original "service eng soon" light was due to purge valve. (valve in front of eng). I replaced it with cheep Ebay valve. Got the code again, replace with OEM. soon after - this P1093 code showed up. I tested the valve with voltage and can hear it click open/close.

I have used the more sophisticated code tools on my laptop (also P1093), but since using OBD fusion

Yes, that's the TEV! I find it interesting that we've both had codes related to TEV and bank 2 rich. Like I said earlier, though, I haven't had time to do anything other than pull the codes at this point.

e39_touring 04-22-2018 02:39 PM

Hi Kevin, did you ever figure out your problem? I finally got a little time to mess with the X's and have made a little progress. I replaced my tank purge valve, and so far that's taken car of the 250 - functional check TEV error (INPA).

However, I still get 2 errors and a CEL consistently about 5 miles after a reset - 227 & 228, lambda control tolerance bank 1 & 2 deviation rich (again, INPA error which I understand actually means I'm running lean).

Lambda integrator 1 & 2 (is this the short-term fuel trim?) are both running at ~16.2%, which is outside the + or - 10% allowed.

I'm 99% sure I've got a vacuum leak because it's consistent and affecting all cylinders though I don't see any obvious signs of where it could be yet.

kevinkay 04-22-2018 03:02 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I never solved my loss of fuel pressure at the valve at the fuel rail, but its running just fine, (except for some hard starts when the eng is warm).
I solved my "bank 2" code - my post cat O2 sensor wires were reversed.

I did learn about intake vacuum leaks.......
did you change this intake boot (attached photo), they rip on the folds and sometimes you hear a whistle when there leaking. Also the DISA valve has a replacement "o-ring" you can buy on Ebay (BMW doesn't sell just the sealing ring). I am sure you have cleaned your MAF sensor wires (special spay cleaner). I ended up replacing my MAF trying to solve my "rich" code - and it kept the code away for about a month - it does affect the trim. Did you do your Crank case vent system. Some on line say its there gas cap? Mine looked ok and I always thought I was getting a good seal - but I did wiggle in another O-ring on that seal and made it real tight.

On a side note.....I went to get my yearly inspection sticker. So as I drove into the station I cleared the "check eng light". The guy backed my car out with a "failed" sticker!! He asked if I cleared the light? "yes, I did". He said it won't pass unless there is at least 60 miles of history on a cleared system.

e39_touring 04-22-2018 03:11 PM

Glad to hear you're sorted - yes, when you clear codes, all emissions monitors are set to 'not ready' and take drive time to return to 'ready'. I learned this a few years ago, too, by resetting right before a test.

Thanks for the tips on the boot and DISA. I'll check those out more carefully. I did do a oil filter housing gasket a while back and now the tank purge valve, and even though the rubber looks good, something must not be seated right. Maybe I'll get a smoke machine to make quick work of finding the leak.

I'm pretty sure my MAF is fine because the live values are smooth and consistent. I can swap it from my other X as I have with the gas cap. It's nice to have a 'Chinese blueprint' when diagnosing as it saves on parts-swapping exercises.

kevinkay 04-22-2018 03:31 PM

make a cheap "harbor fright" smoke test, thats what I did.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsgB9eBl58I


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