The imobilization and remote functions are unrelated. The imobilization is hard coded and can't be programmed or paired. The remote function you can program into the key.

Did you have times when a key would only work after a couple tries ? The symptom you are hoping for is key that works but not always. If it just stopped working one day and never worked after it's less likely the switch and something in the EWS.

Also somebody meant fusible link but meant the BST battery safety terminal that explosively disconnects the high amp battery cable but you said you jumpered the starter solinoid which indicates the BST is good.

Yes, thanks Andrew. Meant bst. It sounds like a probable ignition switch issue, but being able to read ews could save some money if somehow it got misaligned or something.

Thank you very much. I will dig into the videos now. And i will post on here my progress as i go. Hopefully i will have a result soon.

Thank you...Yes i jumped the solinoid and they was a crank. Concerning the keys, at times i would have isaues where one key would not start the car and i would have to use the other key to start it and after that, the first would work again

99.9% bad key switch or ews antenna. See video above.

Another update concerning my investigations. i checked and replaced the ignition switch on the car but the car still wont start. I am now focusing on the EWS or issues related to that. I wanted to enquire if this work can only be carried out by a Dealer. My car is not mobile at the moment so i wanted to find out if i could do these checks on my own, or get a tech guy to check for me. Please advise and thank you in advance.

Another update, i removed the EWS 4.3 from the car and i slotted a 25amp fuse into the EWS FEMALE PLUG. When i started the car it cranked but obviously didnt run as it didnt have the actual EWS. Im not too sure if this means my EWS is faulty or needs to be realligned. I am not a technician, but in my desire to get the car running i am gathering information. I dont yet know how to use all this information or where it will take me next. With the car cranking for the first time in a long time, i suspect that my EWS is either faulty or needs to be realigned. If anyone has any further suggestions on what other test i can run, please chip in. I intend to order a scanner soon so i can get some concrete diagnostic details.

If the car is cranking, it's not an EWS issue. The EWS will prevent the engine from cranking by not sending a signal to the starter.

If the engine is cranking and you been doing this for a long time, chances are that the engine is flooded. You can remove a plug and see if it is wet, or you can get the engine into flood mode by flooring the accelerator all the way to the floor, keep it there and crank the engine over. Crank for 30 seconds interval, with a 1-minute rest interval.

The other item could be no spark. You will have to perform a no spark test. Don't know how to do this? Have it towed to a shop that can fix the car.

Whatever you do, don't and I repeat don't try starting it with starting fluid. That is fine with a carbureted engine, but not so good with an electronic fuel injected engine that utilizes a Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor.