Mirror fold/unfold by remote fob would be nice for sure. One deficiency of the iBus app to do that is you have to wait until the head unit powers up before the iBus app can send that message.

And I miss my halos on at unlock that the ModLight2 provided. :(

I'm also making an attempt to get the coming home/leaving home light feature working, and trying to make sense of the I-BUS Wiki installation instructions for the wiring is somewhat of a headache.

My confusion comes with the "App zapping" CAN-BUS box rewiring and whether or not I can expect to experience issues if I don't do this step. It states in the instructions "To prevent the standard apps from zapping when the ignition is switched on, the CAN-BUS box must remain connected normally, BUT the BROWN-BLACK ("KEY2") wire must be unplugged / cut from the box to the radio AND in the I-BUS App under "Additional Settings" the "MFL control" can be activated. This point is only intended for this purpose: If the app is to take over the MFL function instead of the CAN BUS box.

They also state in big black letters:

Note: The VA and thus the switching OFF of the radio with the locking of the vehicle still does not work for all vehicle types. We therefore advise against switching the radio to VA. We are working on another solution .."

Doesn't tell you which vehicles types won't work with this configuration, and I understand that this app is newer and still in development. But they advise AGAINST switching the radio to VA, even though they give you the instructions on how to do it.

So, if there's anyone on this forum who has had success with wiring/coding for the coming home feature using these instructions for an 01' X5 , i'd love some insight into how you got it up and running and any issues you've experienced after doing so. Thanks for reading!

If you for example want to activate parking lights as welcome lights you can wire the courtesy lights via diode to parking lights supply. This can all be done behind glove box directly on the wiring from GM and LM modules.

Well, I'm hoping to avoid having to do any rewiring whatsoever and just get this beast to work! LOL

I did figure out one MAJOR and so simple of a problem thats been causing me headaches from the start, and that was that I didn't have the Resler USB adapter wired to a permanent positive source, like they highly recommend.

When I first installed my setup, I followed the instructions from Crowz's tutorial on how to wire it, and he used a fuse tap adapter to the telephone/radio/nav fuse in #7, which is switched + and not permanent +. So, i just found a permanent + fuse, the good ole' cigarette lighter fuse, and we're good to go. But it does bring me to more questions regarding the fuse amperage for the fuse tap/shunt. The fuse for the cigarette lighter is 20A, but the one that was for the radio #7 was 5A. What 2 fuse sizes should i be using while plugged into the cigarette fuse slot to power the Resler adapter safely, and the cigarette lighters without blowing them?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AFH...w?usp=drivesdk

Here's a lil test sequence for the coming home lights. It will play the sequence when it unlocks but won't do it for lock for some reason.

You'll need to use the lowest fuse rating that still exceeds the maximum expected operational current draw.

The cigarette lighter will need at least a 20A rated fuse to allow for the unknown devices plugged into it but the fuse for the iBus power could probably be rated at 1A or even less - a 20A isn't going to offer much protection here.

Having said that, so most likely fault in this sort of set up is a short-to-earth, and that sort of fault will likely blow ANY rating of fuse!

So i misspoke and the fuse for the cigarette lighter is 25A, not 20.

So I'm assuming a 5A fuse for the Resler would be a safe bet?