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bhennrich 12-03-2019 07:02 PM

Looking at another E53
 
I am looking at another E53 for a friend of mine as he is from Boise and I am local to the vehicle. 2006 3.0 automatic with 73,000 miles. NOT as clean as the owner said (normal I know). But it has some electrical issues I have never experienced on my X... Dome lights come on when door opens, but do not shut off when doors close. Airbag light is on but seems to be flickering. Heated seats will not activate. Pano roof sun shade retracted but would not go back forward (did not test the glass movement as I didn't want to risk it getting stuck open). Front and rear wipers were intermittently working (this was the only thing the seller informed us of before I drove an hour to see the car). Standing voltage was 11.94v, running was 14.34v. NO CODES of any kind. Idled smooth but didn't drive it as they were asking to much with all the other issues in my opinion. Any guesses as to what would cause these issues so I can try and help my friend decide how much he should offer. They are asking $6,250. But without knowing what the most likely problem is... HELP

Overboost 12-03-2019 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bhennrich (Post 1172646)
I am looking at another E53 for a friend of mine as he is from Boise and I am local to the vehicle. 2006 3.0 automatic with 73,000 miles. NOT as clean as the owner said (normal I know). But it has some electrical issues I have never experienced on my X... Dome lights come on when door opens, but do not shut off when doors close. Airbag light is on but seems to be flickering. Heated seats will not activate. Pano roof sun shade retracted but would not go back forward (did not test the glass movement as I didn't want to risk it getting stuck open). Front and rear wipers were intermittently working (this was the only thing the seller informed us of before I drove an hour to see the car). Standing voltage was 11.94v, running was 14.34v. NO CODES of any kind. Idled smooth but didn't drive it as they were asking to much with all the other issues in my opinion. Any guesses as to what would cause these issues so I can try and help my friend decide how much he should offer. They are asking $6,250. But without knowing what the most likely problem is... HELP

Lol $6.2K for a 3L? That's approaching 4.8iS numbers.

CapeX5 12-03-2019 08:30 PM

Way to much!! Lot's of them out there in that vintage for less. Definitely buyers market.

bhennrich 12-03-2019 08:41 PM

I am not looking for pricing info. I am looking for what may be a common denominator for what would be causing all these electrical problems. I only posted how much they are asking for reference. If anyone has had and solved electrical issues like these can you share what your solution was!


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Overboost 12-03-2019 08:55 PM

Sorry, misunderstood your post. My mind said $6.2k for a 3.0L with electrical problems? Pfffttt. GLWS.

StephenVA 12-04-2019 09:44 AM

Way too much info and obviously too much time on my hands
 
3 Attachment(s)
Diy notes
FIRST STEP
Test battery with a full charge, (150 amp charger for 15 mins, if you do not have access to a commercial charger then the 15 amp diy one over a 12 hr period) follow up with a 150/ 200 amp load test, as anything below 12 v is 80% drained. This full load test should be 1/2 cold cranking rating of the battery at zero degrees, approx 150-200 amps.
As batteries fail, they cause all types of issues.see the multiple posting on diagnostic charging system testing and battery testing. I have posted it approx 15 times now
Note two
As batteries fail they will absorb all the energy a charging system can provide, but they never hold the charge. When loaded with a carbon pile tester, the voltage just drops to 9.xx volts. You can NOT TEST a charging system with a bad battery in the loop.
End of shop class 101
Helpful?

StephenVA 12-04-2019 09:51 AM

After the above tests are completed, take a look in the trunk to make sure it does not have the grave yard water floating around the battery. With all the electronics in there it can be the end of your review.
There multiple possibly causes, maybe a few at the same time. Many owners ignore 1-2-3 issues until the 4th one comes along and now it is time to make the big decision, bite the bullet and have the multiple repairs completed or bail pushing the problems to the next and final owner.
The vehicle you are looking at has lower than normal mileage but was un cared for. Why? Lack of driving reasons or something else?

On the list of potential causes
Ignition switch
Bad grounds
Wiring harness issues
Car was wrecked and never reassembled correctly
And on and on

Now the last point, offer $5k, AFTER a PPI. That step will save your bacon, if I can still use that term in today's snowflake world. Any competent bmw tech working in a well stocked Indy shop can do this for you


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