Locked out
 

I know this has been mentioned a few times, and I can't find it for the life of me. My wife's 2002 X5 3.0 driver side door lock failed. The key rotates left and right but nothing happens. She called the tow company and his failure to get the car unlocked resulted her bashing in the rear door window. I have read many threads about how to get around this, but she had tons of food in the car that was thawing out, and it was raining outside. SHe wasnt waiting on a fix.



We have a new window and tumbler rebuild parts and all that jazz, but I now have questions.



The video we found on rebuilding the tumbler has us a tumbler that will now only turn in one direction. We've had it in and out of the car several times. Is there a writeup that clearly explains the process?


Also, for the future, how do I obtain entry into the car if this happens in the again? Ive seen lots of mention of this alternate method, and obviously I understand why it shouldn't be public due to security concerns, but this has turned into a frustrating adventure to say the least. Id much rather her not break a window in the event that she cannot unlock her car next time.

Insert key, pull door handle, and turn key ccw (I think) while still pulling door handle.

You probably need a new door actuator.

It sounds like you're using a valet key without buttons? If so, get a key with the (fob) remote door opener. that way you could have opened any door and rear hatch? Am I missing something?

Oh yeah, crap. I didnt mention the fob battery is dead, and I havent gotten around to replacing that. Looking forward to it actually.


So she was using the regular key, but it was dead.

You don't usually change the battery in these fobs. They are continually charged in the ignition. You will likely need to buy a new one from the dealer.

Most dealers charge $225-275. The best price from an online dealer is:

https://www.thebmwminipartstore.com/

$168 delivered. You will need to send them proof of ownership.

- Battery for BMW Fob: search ebay for "BMW Varta battery".
About $7.

- Video is below:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sU6uHDV3-mI

If you never replace the battery in a BMW FOB better to send it in to a guy that can replace it without damaging the circuit board. If you have the original key I believe the EWS chip is solder to the board and if you damage the board you may not be able to start your car. After market key use a chip that is not soldered to the board.

Just my 2₵ advise and it's only worth 2₵.

Next time tell her to break the passenger side window or a rear door window. They are a lot easier to fix compare with the fix window that she broke.

She did break the rear door window.



Thank you all! The tumbler has been rebuilt and all is working as it should now.



Now, onward to changing that battery.....

Glad you got it fixed.

I now find myself in a similar predicament. I know it is bad practice. When I first got the car, I was paranoid about getting locked out, took what I thought were sufficient precautions, and now am stuck.

Briefly, I have read what seem like every thread on this forum about this problem. Nothing non-destructive works so far. Several times there is a mention of some secret method given out selectively when people are stuck. I have PM'ed the people who claim to have used this method, and have no answer after a couple of days of waiting.

So if anyone knows the method (e.g., from user UCrewX5), please let me know.

I know there are many different variations on the lockout, e.g., summarized in the threads listed here:
https://xoutpost.com/1105705-post2.html

My specific situation is:

• Car battery is just fine.
• I have plenty of keys.
• Door handle carriers are all good.
• Windows all up, locked out, hood closed, alarm set, car in my driveway.

Just about 10 days ago, I tried to re-initialize my key fobs, since they had not been working for a while. After doing that, I found that only one of the 4 was working. I figured I should recharge all their batteries, so (as I have done a few times before, over the years) I put them all near the ignition key cylinder, turned the key to ON, hooked up a battery charger, and left it overnight to charge the key fobs. Yes, I know, there are easier ways, but I have too many projects. Following that charging and a few programming attempts, unfortunately ZERO fobs worked. But perhaps useful to note that prior to the failed recharging, one of them did work, suggesting the car-side of things are OK. And for the current situation, I think it mean there is zero hope of getting them to work before getting a door open some other way.

Then as bad luck would have it, my door key cylinder failed. I know all about how to fix it, and in fact, as part of my paranoia about this situation, I had replaced a cracked component in the mechanism that I had noticed a few years ago.

So now, the key fobs are all non-functioning, and the mechanical unlock does not work.

Some extra stuff I have tried and failed at:

• holding in the unlock button on a key fob to roll down windows - does not work
• repeated wiggling, attempts to see if anything in the key mechanism will catch and turn - does not work
• pried open the top of the front passenger (right) door, reached in with a rod, pressed multiple times on the door unlocking button on the central console - does not work (although there may be a chance I just need to press a lot harder on that button)
• reached down with a rod to try to actuate the passenger window. Does not work, of course, because the key is not in the ignition. But when I did that, I expected the alarm to go off. It did not, which may point to why the central unlock button does not work as I believe it should.
• Also reached down with a rod to try to actuate the passenger door inner door handle. I know it is double locked, and my understanding is that once the central button is pressed, they should be openable with a double-pull. No luck.

At this point, I'm hoping to hear of the secret method. If I don't, I will probably, in this order:

1. Try again to press the central locking button, being sure to adjust my technique so I am surely pressing down fully.
2. See if I can reach in with a rod through the same pried passenger door access point, put a key into the ignition, turn it to ON, and then roll down a window.
3. Remove the plastic cap over the door key cylinder. Drill out the screw holding the cylinder in place, and actuate the door lock actuator using a screwdriver once it is exposed.
4. Check price and availability of windows.

Any advice, corrections to my failed attempts, etc. will be greatly appreciated.

Not sure but I had read that removing the cap on the passenger side will allow you to drill a hole and add a hidden lock cylinder (future help) but going with the driver's door lock is now your surest option.

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

To OldSkewel:

You said the car battery is fine...so was the car double locked prior to you being locked out? I ask because if you have been inserting things inside the cabin...the IMS (interior motion sensor) should have set things off. So if the IMS hasn't activated...is the red clown nose flashing (the status LED below the interior rear view mirror)?

If the red LED isn't flashing...it means DWA (anti-theft alarm siren system) hasn't been activated...or the car's battery is dead and/or the alarm siren's internal battery is also dead since it hasn't sounded off when things were inserted inside the cabin.

In order for the the "secret" interior UNLOCK procedure to work when the car has been double locked...requires that the car's battery is charged because the FZV (central locking) to work...requires electrical power. And to others reading this...anything 1999-back...when double locked...the car is LOCKED and will require a working key to unlock the car...you must have a 2000-up BMW to unlock a double-locked BMW using the procedure below but you MUST also have electrical power. They central lock/unlock button must have power to work:

1. Press the interior central locking button (once)
2. Pull TWICE on an interior door handle

To all:

Just to make a correction to the MANUAL UNLOCK procedure that was mentioned earlier in this thread...DO NOT pull up & hold on the door handle when trying to MANUALLY unlock the door. Those instructions to pull & hold is for the prior generation e32/e34/e36 BMW models. The e38/e39/e46/e53 manual unlock procedure is just to (see text highlighted in red box from the owners manual below):

1. Insert key into driver's door lock cylinder
2. Turn key CCW (counter clockewise) 90° to the manual unlock position. If you only turn the key 45°, you're only turning to the electrically actuated key positions to lock or unlock the vehicle.

Thanks for carefully reading my long post.

Battery is definitely fine. Relatively new, no problems. Clown nose still flashing red as it should. Orange LED next to the P on the shifter still illuminated.

If it would give good info, I can try bumping or jacking the car up to set off the motion sensor alarm.

Mine is a MY2001, so that method *should* work, it seems.

Since the key fobs were not working, the car was locked (as done all the time when fobs are not working) using the key in the door lock, automatically locking all four doors and starting the clown nose blinking.

Not happy to hear that this is the "secret" method. Is it the same one handed out by UCrewX5 by secret courier and handshake? Was hoping for something different from UCrewX5 or someone who got the method from him at some point over the years.

Regarding the pressing of the central console lock/unlock button ... What exactly should happen when it is properly pressed, if things are going according to this plan? Should I hear anything click, clunk, see anything light up, etc.? I assume the doors themselves will not show any activity, otherwise the instructions would be to pull open the outer door handle. Right?

I tried it a few times, as I said, not sure I was pressing it fully, and not getting any sort of confirmation that it had been pressed (and am in a quiet area, so I would hear a click if it happened). Since I tried a few times, I'm guessing the requirement to hit the button once (or I assume an odd number vs. even number of times) was met, but will try more carefully next time.

Any other ideas or finer points in the method?

Does the center console button sound like it's the UCrewX5 secret method? I've been waiting to hear on that before doing the really difficult or destructive approaches.

I may get a chance to look into this again this weekend.

I am hoping to be proven wrong, but so far I have concluded that the "secret" method is the one widely published on this site, including a few posts above by Qsilver7. My wrong belief/hope that an alternative method existed made it harder.

Simple questions I still don't have definite answers to, so please help if you know:

1. In that method, do you press and release (one time) that central locking button, and then double-pull an inside door handle? Or do you press and hold that central button down while at the same time double-pulling the handle?

2. Should the alarm go off when I poke a rod through into the car? If no alarm goes off, does that indicate something is wrong, meaning the secret method may not work (it does not appear to be working)?

3. When I press and release (one time) that central locking button, should anything at all happen? Click? Clunk? Beep? Change in flashing alarm light? Continued silence?

==================== EDIT ==============
EDITED now with answers after I broke in and did the simple tests. This may not be how it is supposed to work, but it is what happened on my car, having been locked with the key in the door lock, not locked using the remote.
#1 - both options tried. neither one worked.
#2 - no alarm went off, even reaching in through the fully open window with my full open. Door had been locked via the door lock actuator (not remote), clown nose was flashing.
#3 - got no sound at all, nothing at all seemed to happen when pressing that button.

And in general that method failed completely for me. I read how it has worked for others, so I'm sure it's valid. Maybe there is some other state my car is in due to locking via the door vs. remote that makes it different vs. the successful reports.

Do a YouTube search for how to break into a car with a shoe lace.

Thanks for all the useful answers, people.

No need for more entertainment, I'm in. Took about 5 minutes once I figured out what to do and forged ahead without all the distractions of hoping for secret methods and learning about shoe lace technology.

BTW, the worst part of all this is now knowing how ridiculous BMW's anti-theft system is. A serious hassle for BMW owners getting themselves locked out. Ignorant thieves would just break a window. Knowledgeable thieves could easily be inside within 3 minutes, considering if I did it the first time in 5, figuring it out as I went.