Xoutpost.com - 2006 X5 3.0i keeps running with key off

Xoutpost.com (https://xoutpost.com/forums.php)

- X5 (E53) Forum (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/)

- - 2006 X5 3.0i keeps running with key off (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/111637-2006-x5-3-0i-keeps-running-key-off.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Siggy (Post 1189121)

Signal Terminal 15 - Unloader Relay terminal 15 - Switched voltage at Position #2
Voltage Supply Terminal R - Fuse Terminal R - Switched voltage at position R
Not used
Not used
Voltage Supply Terminal 30 - Cable Shoe Output Fuse F105 - Constant Voltage
Voltage Supply Terminal 30 - Cable shoe output fuse F106 - Constant Voltage
Voltage Supply Terminal 30 -Fuse F3 - Constant Voltage
Signal, Terminal 50 -Electronic Immobilizer (EWS) DME Control unit - Switched at starting position
Voltage Supply, terminal 15 - Fuse terminal 15 - UNKNOWN BY ME
Signal Terminal 15 - Output stage, rear compartment blower - Switched at Position #2
Not used

To me, that has me looking at Pin#8. That's the only one, if I'm correct, that shows power at the run position. If the car is running with the key in it and I take the key out and it keeps running, in my mind (which could be wrong), that means there is still power on that wire.

That's where I'm heading right now. Does that sound like a logical path? Anyone know the route of that #8 wire? Or better yet, a method that would allow me to test that. Would I ohm it out against ground? That really doesn't do anything, does it? Measure voltage on it with the key on, then the key out (when it keeps on running?). I know there's voltage on it because it's running.

Terminal 50 is starter motor activation. It's only activated when you start the engine, not while running.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clavurion (Post 1189124)

Terminal 50 is starter motor activation. It's only activated when you start the engine, not while running.

Well, that blows my plan up :) In looking at that pin out, are there ones you think make more sense to follow?

Terminal R is ignition switch radio position and Terminal 15 switch pos. 2. So those pins should not have voltage when ignition is turned off (or ignition switch removed). You should follow where they get continuous voltage (Terminal 30) when they shouldn't.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...switch/sqgAkAt

Just to be clear, with the battery connected, and the plug unplugged from the actual ignition switch, there should only be power on 5,6,7, correct?

Is there any timeframe, when you hook up the battery, that there should be any power on anything else? For example, since the door is open, should there be any power to any other pins until the car goes back to sleep?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Siggy (Post 1189132)

Correct. When battery is connected (ignition switch removed or off position) there should only be voltage on supply side pins 5, 6 and 7 regardless of other factors.

Okay, we have a problem!

I hooked the battery back up, nothing automatically came on. I plugged the plug into the ignition switch and nothing happened. Started the car, everything worked as normal. Crap. Another random event.

I try it a couple times, can't make it act up. I turn the car off, get out of it, shut the door and push the lock button on the fob and it doesn't lock. Hummm... that's odd. Push it again, nothing.

I look inside and the dash it lit up.

I open the door and unplug the plug from the ignition switch and put the black lead of the meter in the ground (green) terminal on the plug, and I probe all the other wires that normally shouldn't have any power on them. Keeping in mind, the key is in my pocket. They all measure 10v or very close to it.

So there is a barrage of power coming in to the entire plug. That doesn't sound like a bad wire to me, that sounds like a computer(ish) problem. Am I wrong?

Any suggestions on what to check next?

So even the supply pins 5, 6 and 7 were only 10 V, not battery voltage (how much was the battery voltage)?

I didn't check those 3 because I had always seen power on them and didn't think to measure those 3. I was so excited to find the power on the others that I didn't even consider it. I can try to replicate it again here shortly and report back.

I didn't check the battery voltage either. I'll check everything and report back.

I can't make it do it again right now, but the battery is 12.3V and the pins 5,6, and 7 all have 12.3V on them right now, with the key in my pocket and the door open. All other pins have nothing on them.

Alrighty....the saga continues...

I went to look under the hood at some of the wiring coming into the fuse boxes under the hood and I popped the release and went to open the hood and it unlatched but wouldn't open. WTH? Then I thought it was anti-theft, so I hit the button on my fob to lock and unlock the doors and nothing moved. Went and looked and the dash lights were on.

Checked, running 10V on all the pins EXCEPT 5,6, and 7. 5,6, and 7 are at 1.45V.

Disconnected the battery to make it all stop.

Those readings are from the harness and plug going into the ignition switch, it's not plugged in.