Thanks, I get a lot of compliments on the Angel Eyes, not bad for a 2001 E53

I find that the blow-off going down the highway at 75-80mph produces an even distribution of corrosion resisting oil film on the floorpan and rear suspension fasteners. :rolleyes:


Anyway, what about other gaskets/seals involved - axles, differential? I'm afraid that if I tackle the pan, everything else will leak if it's not replaced.


2002 X5 3.0 376,300 miles
2014 428i 66,700 miles


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird Under restoration - waiting for serpentine belt drive conversion :damn: because the factory A/C compressor doesn't clear the taller valve cover now.....after investing $300 in billet V-groove pulleys.

Maybe I'm not driving fast enough but the oil isn't anywhere but in the reinforcement plate and pad. Even the splash shield under the front of the motor is dry. I knew I had a leak but tackled the OFHG last month hoping that was the source but it really became evident when I saw the drips underneath when I parked on an incline last week.

So in I go. I don't have any 90W smells or leaks so hoping my front diff to axle seals are ok. I spent quite a bit of time researching and wanted to use factory Dreibond 1209 on the corner seams of the engine block just as the TIS instructions listed so ordered the $25 tube before taking things apart. FCP shows delivery tomorrow so I might start the project Saturday.

My plan is to disassemble everything and pull the pan on the first day and let all residual oil in the engine to drip down over night and into the next day while I clean and prep the OP and block sealing surfaces. Once I can see there will be no residual oil leaking down to contaminate my Driebond sealant in the corners I will put the oil pan back in place and start the torquing process.

I am hoping to have the new OPG torqued back on, diff reinstalled with axles and subframe with suspension links completely back together by the end of the 2nd day allowing the Dreibond to completely cure over night into the next day before adding oil and finishing it up on the 3rd day.

The one good thing that came out of my rod bearing issue was, the OPG was done as part of the work order. No additional cost. But, the downside is the OFHG. I have to pull the blower. As they say, “it’s always something”! :banghead:

So I’m looking to add another thing to my list, a thing I noticed while cleaning a few days ago. For some reason, these buttons seem to have come somehow loose. If I press them on the right side, they’re popping out. Anybody have experience with this? Or how to take it apart?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...df5fb84830.jpg

Very common. They pop out over time because the little tabs wear off over time. You can see one in your pic on the blue down arrow. Looks like your AC face plate is damaged in that area as you should not be able to see the tab, but should still be serviceable.

To fix the loose button issue you can either order replacement buttons ~$110 for a full set. Or you can put a dab of silicon under the buttons (small dab on top, small dab on bottom). I've done both in the past depending on how cheap I felt that day.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o6F4GtyRfto

Figured as much. I’ll go tinker with them to see how many actually need to be replaced and decide based on that. Thanks.

I ordered a replacement set for around $25.

Mind sharing where from/link?