Next? Do I replace the actuator? Its working. But the lock mech is funky. Outside works fine, inner cable is stretched out of the cable plastic coating and the plastic shell pops out of the plastic retainer that holds the cable in place. It doesn't always stay in place so it's not always releasing the latch to snap back. Do I just need to replace the bowden cable? If so, how difficult is it to replace with the actuator in the door? looks troubling. Thanks
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LOCKED OUT, SCREWED
 

It’s actually much easier to get the actuator out than to do the doorhandle carrier I always remove the actuator to make room when I’m doing a door handle.

sounds like you just need to replace the cable for the inner door handle.

You can test the actuator by not connecting the inner Handel and just pull the entire cable it will activate the inner door latch

Ordered a new Bowden cable release for the interior. Hopefully the replacement isn't that time consuming or difficult. Looks like it unlatches from the bottom of the actuator after I pop out the top retainer plastic housing. My cable was stretched almost 1.5 inches out of the plastic cable liner and was catching on the retainer housing. Tried shaving a notch for the cable, but that only worked intermittently. This should fix it. BTW, what is the process of freeze protection for the old actuator? Lot's of silicone spray?

Teflon and grease in the exact spot. my DIY shows exactly where the magic spot is.

There are two metal parts that actually slide along each other or are molecules apart that just condensation is enough to freeze them shut.

BMW try to mitigate the problem with a little bit of a bump to keep them slightly separated it’s an epic failure didn’t help at all. One 20th of a milliliter of water will freeze it solid enough to break the doorhandle carrier on the first try.

So my fix is to put a piece of Teflon where are the two parts touch and then lubricate the Teflon. How do you spell still form but it just gets pushed out of the way.

I have to rebuild one of my door actuators and I will put in a few new video showing how to open the door is double locked and such


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Very talented. Would graphite work in that spot? I know where you speak of. I saw that section jam up when the inner bowden cable didn't release. I never recall this much complication on my old E30 systems. Oh well. Thanks again. GL with rebuild.

Graphite alone I doubt would help much. The key to the fix is getting something with a different material between the two pieces of metal. Even with grease and Teflon the ice will form at the elbow of the external latch arm.

When fixed the ice will break free with ease, but with just grease it will still freeze.

Good point. So where do I get the sticky teflon from?
Is it a spray? A grease style, like silver or copper anti-seize?

It’s made for the bottom of computer mice. You can also get insulation strips that are maybe nylon double stick. I bought some on amazon.