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Old 05-07-2020, 11:09 PM
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LOCKED OUT, SCREWED

Freaking out. After about an hour of Driver DHC install and careful testing, and very careful vapor barrier repair I hopped in the X, drove around the driveway, parked it. Went to get out and nothing. Unlocked it with center console, up n down fine. Key fob , fine. But no response from the inside door handle release.
It's making a resistance when pulled n springs back into place, so I know the handle end is fine.
Then , squeezed out of the passenger side. Same test, door will not release. Manual lock system works great. Pull the door handle. Nothing.
NOW WHAT? Don't tell me I have to figure out how to remove the inner door panel while inside the car? Please. What could it be?
I was so patient and careful with the install. Tested the DHC many times before sealing up the door. Worked great. I even used a special aluminum hollow pipe/tube to properly press the cap on the ball. The DHC fit perfect. No issue replacing the lock mech. Just the slightiest pull n the door opened.
Thanks, I think this X is ready for a cocktail party, Molotoff that is.
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Old 05-07-2020, 11:29 PM
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so the usual reason for the predicament you are in is one of the release cables is not retracting completely can be either the inner door handle or the outer door handle; if you hold either one ever so slightly from going all the way back to the start point all attempts to open will 'dry fire'.

I would try to disconnect the inside handle you may be able to do that with the card mostly attached. You should always test the latch with the likes of a large screwdriver in the latching mechanism after the door card is back on. I had this happen to me when the DHC cable was hooked on crooked and effectively pulled a little too much.
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Old 05-08-2020, 12:25 PM
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I figure I can remove most of the door panel inside. What is "dry fire" refer to?
I will try a gentle,pull on the inner door handle. I found it odd that it didn't work.
I hope the new part didn't malfunction. But I am happy to find a tool for snapping the
cap on the ball.
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Old 05-08-2020, 01:25 PM
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What he's saying is use a screwdriver to trip the lock/latch with the door open and this way if it's bound up or something the door card can be removed easily since it's still open.

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Old 05-08-2020, 02:49 PM
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That's a really good tip for the cable ball others should *take note*

Dry fire means no engagement. You are only feeling the resistance of the spring that returns the handle.

You may get the actuator to reset with some "percussive maintenance" (pounding on the door to shake the actuator) or possibly by flicking the inner door handle back to start position (helping the spring so it returns faster).

Odds are good you have bound the inside release cable on something or it's not seated into the inside handle properly and it's pulling a few mm farther than it's supposed to.

The symptom of this condition is exactly as you described. You will get exactly one proper use of the inside handle then it will lock you out of function. I kind of wonder if this is a security feature (prevent car jacket from opening door from outside if you hold the inner handle out). Or even anti-jam feature so something doesn't break when the driver reaches over to open or unlock just the passenger door by pulling inside handle.

What I've noticed is you can pull the entire inner cable assembly to unlock the door vs the outside latch you have to only pull the inner cable so it means misaligned outer cable (wrong path through the vapor barrier) can cause the problem you are having.

If you can somehow disconnect the inner handle you should be able to get the outer handle to work then reconnect the inner handle and test operation.

Critical you test operation with the door completely reassembled while the door is OPEN to ensure you don't repeat the locked in problem.

You said you installed a new actuator: brand new, reused, chinesium? The other possibility is a defect in the double lock mechanism. I have to rebuild one of my actuators and when I do, I plan to take a video to show how to manually disable the double lock. If your key turns 90° and the key lock Cylinder is not broken it should disable
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Old 05-09-2020, 05:00 PM
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This is all good. I am removing as much of the door panel as possible, don't think I can get it entirely out of the car because the front part is tight against the dash.
OK,so I think the inner cable is jammed under the airbag, so I am going to try and remove that. The key manual lock system works great, even rolls the windows down. The outer door handle is useless, regardless of power lock/unlock. I notice the inner handle release isn't making that clicking noise when it would release the latch. If the power lock systems are all working can I still have a bad latch? I didn't replace the actuator because it was working, instead, just replaced the DHC. And the great thing was it worked from outside with just the slightest pull. Everything went back together in a firm position, even the lock cylinder went back easily/perfectly. I'll keep you posted. BUT I hope the actuator isn't bad. Thanks again.
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Old 05-09-2020, 11:59 PM
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Just sounds like actuator doing it's job.

If the inner handle is not completely released you will have the symptoms you describe. Keep us posted. While you have the door apart, if you live where it gets below freezing, fix your actuator to make it freeze resistant.
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Old 05-10-2020, 09:55 AM
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Old 05-10-2020, 04:00 PM
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I can see and get to the latch system OK. Door panel can't come out. Just opened, removed airbag. I can see the outer handle lifting the attached latch, but not releasing it.
The inner handle is free n attached, but also will not release the latch to open/pop the door. The electrics work fine when the window switch is connected. Lock/unlock electric n manual lock key work and continually lock n unlock the latch. BUT it won't budge to open. Is there some way to release that latch? How can it lock/unlock but not release the latch to open? I am lost on this. What's next?
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Old 05-10-2020, 04:37 PM
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POPPED> OPENED. This link helped immensely to understand how the lock mech, manually works. Just another BMW over engineered bucket of bolts experience. https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...-fix-pics.html
So, now I will work with the cables, dhc, and lock mech before closing the door. But I will drive around for a few days without the panel. It's 20 years old afterall n time to sell.
Thank you so much for your patience and assistance. J
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