That's actually a pretty good idea and would tap into my backup method but be a little more secure.

You would have to invent a rip cord something like the one for explosive release of the canopy on a fighter jet to facilitate a ground rescue of a pilot.

I have to rebuild my passenger DLA and I will almost certainly look into adding a backup entry method and if it’s not top secret I will share.

Chexk your mesaages.

I have to rebuild my cylinder for the 4th time and plan to beef it up with some JB weld this time. Actually I'm going to try to just repair it since rebuilding with the same crappy potmetal will just mean I have to do again in a year or so. If I can pull off a true repair maybe with a thin sheet of brass or stainless on the base of the part that breaks in half people can make a better than new repair for pennies.

One other thing of note; the key remote won't work to unlock, with it work to roll down the windows? Another possible way to get in with car running with other key.

Thanks for the PM Andrew :)

I'm guessing if the lock cylinder isn't turning to unlock the door it isn't going to unroll the windows either.

I wonder how necessary that piece that breaks is? Is it so that the latch can operate without turning the lock cylinder or is it more more security so that if someone pulls the lock cylinder with a slide hammer they still can't get in? If it's the later maybe it could be JB welded solid??

Extra Door Lock
 

That is correct so your best bet is some minor corrections to the lock cylinder as described by me and oldskewel please do not make that public.

The piece that breaks is the link bewteen the cylinder and the rod that engages with the lock actuator so completely necessary.

The lock cylinder when removed exposes the lock actuator which can be actuated with a finger so if you can. Get a good enough grip to break a 4mm screw with a slide hammer and pull the cylinder you'd be able to break into the car.

Actually, if you tried to yank the cylinder with a slide hammer you would probably just pull out the core and would likely blow that little bit to bits and would make it very difficult to still open the car. You need to pull the entire lock cylinder out to access the DLA.

So can you elaborate the actual purpose of these mods? I know that the rod is fragile but should still last several uses so you can repair any possible problems with the remote control.

The rod is not fragile there is a tiny "fork" that serves the purpose of tansmitting the rotation force from lock cylinder to the rod that turns the DLA input and also spring the cylinder back to center from either side.

It's a disc about 12mm diameter with 8mm hole in the middle that is about 0.8mm thick. It has two curved fork times up the side about 6mm wide 10mm tall and 1mm thick.

The bottom disc snaps in half and will more or less still function while broken for a while. It doesn't operate smoothly and that's how you can tell it's broken.

Once broken it will usually turn much easier one way than the other and it will stick at the noon position and be difficult to either lock or unlock depending where the fork broke.

Eventually the fork tine will break off completely and jam. You may get the key stuck in or it will just stop operating the DLA.

Purpose of the mod is giving you a way to get in the car should the lock cylinder fail and your key fob won't work to remote unlock or open the door.

... so two things have to go wrong, and you might think the odds of both happening at the same is low, but ...

What often happens (as it did to me) is that something first goes wrong and the remote entry functionality stops working. Then you don't fix it right away. You just start using the mechanical key every day to unlock and lock the door - so 4x per trip. Then you keep doing that, since it works, and you've got a ton of other stuff to do.

And the weak link in these door key cylinders, as AndrewWynn described, is a little breakable part, which only works a few hundred times until it breaks (I've broken two in my 5 years and 24k miles).

So these are not two independent factors, it is one that leads to the other. And I knew all that and still got burned. :rolleyes:

To make it even worse for me, when I was in that situation, the minor fault in my central locking system (a limit switch in my driver's door lock actuator) caused the central locking system to b partially faulty. So the common break-in method did not work for me.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7e86a5b912.jpg

This is the part that breaks.

It's maybe 12mm across. The lock cylinder comes in from the left. A very strong spring holds back the two parts of the fork to push the lock cylinder back to the start position. The very tips engage info a circular ring that locks to the post that engages the DLA.