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  #1  
Old 05-20-2020, 12:49 PM
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Extra Door Lock

Just wondering if anyone has considered, or even installed, an additional lock cylinder on the passenger side ? My ETK doesn't show right hand drive vehicles for some reason so I can't figure out if the door latch would need to be changed or if the lock cylinder portion is the same for both sides or if one would be available for the passenger side if they are different. Cheers and Thanks!
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Old 05-20-2020, 01:38 PM
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I've wondered the same thing and that with work it might even be possible to install a non keyed release under the trim cap and sealed for single emergency use.

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Old 05-20-2020, 01:41 PM
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I did consider it at one point. Big problem that may not be obvious:

The door key cylinder works by turning a thing that sticks out the back (toward the car interior) that looks like a Phillips #4 screwdriver. That goes into a white plastic receptacle in the door lock actuator. So turning the key turns that thing, that turns the white receptacle in the DLA which unlocks the door, etc.

The problem is that the passenger side DLA does not have the receptacle built into it. It does not expect a key to be there, so does not have the extra mechanism, etc.

Beyond that, if you were considering getting a drivers DLA from a RHD vehicle to install along with the key cylinder, knowing how complex and integrated the whole central locking system is, it may be close to impossible to working electrically (and I hardly ever say that about anything).

Here's a pic I found from when I rebuilt my driver's DLA, showing the white receptacle in the DLA that the key cylinder PH4 thing fits into. The passenger DLA does not have this.
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Old 05-20-2020, 01:46 PM
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that's a really interesting idea. I have a different workaround but can't share it publicly.

Considering I have to rebuild my lock cylinder about annually due to the shitty weak link design that has a MTBF of about 500-800 uses I have a backup method to get into my car when it fails.

I shared my original method of a breakaway screw in the lock cylinder (where I could use a prybar or a hammer to break the screw). I have a new method now. It's moronic to have a flawed single entry method especially with double locks making It near impossible to break into the car.

Anyhow my new method is likely to be used soon as I've noticed the telltale signs that my cylinder has self destructed for the 3rd or 4th time since my key fob died in 2017-18.
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Old 05-20-2020, 01:51 PM
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Haha, yes I was kinda hoping that the passenger side latch had the turning thingy as well which would almost make sense so they could use the same part on right-hand drive vehicles but as EOD guy points out that would make make the vehicle less secure. I am with EODguy on at least having the emergency non keyed release though.

Maybe the latch could be drilled or modded somehow to expose the turn to unlock part ?

Haha, thanks oldskewl for adding the pic! that explains it!
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Last edited by 80stech; 05-20-2020 at 01:58 PM.
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Old 05-20-2020, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldskewel View Post
I did consider it at one point. Big problem that may not be obvious:



The problem is that the passenger side DLA does not have the receptacle built into it. It does not expect a key to be there, so does not have the extra mechanism, etc.



You would of course need to install passenger side DLA to mate with the key. I would imagine either there is no connection for the door lock actuator compatible with the passenger side window switch or if there is one (so the same harness can be used LHD and RHD), that the DME or GM is not programmed for two drivers doors.

That said the mechanical link would work and you could use the mechanical override. It would set off the alarm but you would just reach over and plug the key Into the ignition to cancel.

If you have a working lock cylinder but the DLA breaks you can turn the key a couple times to unlock the other doors or hold in unlock position to roll down the windows but if the cylinder breaks you can do neither and you are pretty screwed.

Most people have a working fob and worst case (personal experience) can unlock the trunk and climb in to open *all four* frozen doors from the inside.

My car the key fob broke I lost my spare and going off one non fob key and often 75 miles from home so I have a backup method of getting in my car in case if lock cylinder disaster.
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Old 05-20-2020, 02:04 PM
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Yes, I considered the passenger-side mod, for emergency backup purposes back when I was locked out. Similar to AndrewWynn, during a busy time, my key fobs / central locking had failed, and the usage count on the key cylinder clicked up until it broke after a few hundred uses, locking me out. I now have everything (fobs, central locking, DLA, key cylinder) working at 100% thanks to extra time due to the virus.

And (also, similar and maybe the same as AndrewWynn) I have a top secret break-in method now. I can get into my car now completely nondestructively if needed. Can also break into any E53 with trivial damage, in minutes, without even setting off the alarm. Think about that next time you're stranded for a couple of days, locked out and trying to figure out why this $4k car has a $100k security system.

BTW, in my case when I was locked out, the failure that caused the key fobs to not work also caused a partial malfunction in central locking that meant the more standard, not-really-secret break-in method did not work for me.
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Old 05-20-2020, 02:05 PM
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My issue is that I have a special needs son who I leave in the car so it needs to running (for heat or A/C) and locked. I can use the interior lock button to lock all doors, then get out the drivers door and lock it manually with a second key, the key buttons do not work from the key I have with me because the car only recognizes the one in the ignition. If my lock cylinder fails, which it has but I was lucky, I can't get into the car.
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Old 05-20-2020, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80stech View Post
My issue is that I have a special needs son who I leave in the car so it needs to running (for heat or A/C) and locked. I can use the interior lock button to lock all doors, then get out the drivers door and lock it manually with a second key, the key buttons do not work from the key I have with me because the car only recognizes the one in the ignition. If my lock cylinder fails, which it has but I was lucky, I can't get into the car.
BTW on the second key remote not working - I believe that just having any key in the ignition and turned to ACC or ON will disable all remotes.

PM me if you want my break-in method.

On the lock cylinder breaking, mine had broken a few years ago, similarly after some remote entry failure meant it got used a lot. I bought the repair kit and replaced only the single part that failed. Then a few years later, same exact part failed. Same repair kit, repaired, etc., but I know it has a limited lifetime. I can believe the estimate of 500-800 uses.
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Old 05-20-2020, 02:37 PM
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It's a shame they didn't use a better quality of metal for (the originals and even worse for the aftermarket ones made to replace it as a known problem!) that piece that breaks!
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