Can you provide the number of the lower cost Timesert kit?
That would be the way to go since I have a zillion drill bushings and steel and aluminum plate.

Update... E4 and E7 cam journals look like this.
Looking for opinions and options
Photo is mid labeled

Clarification- the cams are labeled “E” for intake and “A” for exhaust (due to the German word for each, I believe)

Are you showing us the “E” - Intake cam or the exhaust cam?

I and others on the forum frequently see that kind of scoring on the exhaust cams, not as often on the intake cams.

When I see it on the exhaust side I usually leave it alone. If it bothered me, I would discuss it with my machinist. I would have to research it, but a mild polish might be possible without new caps and trays..

E is intake as identified on the casting at the back end of the cam.
A7 is similar to E7 now that I took the exhaust side (A) off.
I would expect the cam regrind would leave quite a bit of clearance based on the fingernail in the scored groove test. Is it possible to add bearing halves once the head was machined or should I go to the yard and pull a head from a 330i of similar year?
I'll be checking this head for flatness after a good cleaning.
Any additional thoughts on using a cam and caps from a different head if the cap to head alignment and dimensions look good?

If you can pull another 3.0 head with cams & caps from a junkyard cheaply, you might do so. You might find the cams, bearings and journals to be in slightly better shape than the ones you have. Also, a good, used, flat M54 cylinder head has good value - $200-$600 depending on if a machine shop has been thru it.

Cam caps are matched/sold with cam trays, and new trays are quite expensive new..like $600

Some people get away with swapping a cap or two & claim no ill effects- make sure it matches "A" or "E"

Interesting info from a BMW tech on the e46 site...See post #22 for a description of how they can line bore a cam and cam tray. you might find the rest of the thread interesting.

https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...#post-18793651

Crack or casting mark?

Can't tell for sure..when I blow up the picture, I lose detail/focus...There are sometimes straight casting marks in the crown of the piston firing area, but never on the head surface between cylinders.

What i see in your pic is a non-straight line between cylinders that continues as a non-straight line into the crown area...looks like a crack...

crack

Crack, but rub it with dykem steel blue and use a sanding block with extra fine grit to double check.

WEAR GLOVES!! or you'll look like a blueberry for a week....

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More update...
I used a fine stone, 220 and 1000 grit sandpaper and hand lapped the area using “poor man’s Dykem ” (magic marker) about the time the old head gasket shadows went away, the areas of concern seemed to start going away as well. The machinist is a great guy and well trusted so I think I may have dodged a bullet this time.