Harmonic balancer removal
 

Next update ..
I made this Whizz bang harmonic balancer lock tool that fits right in to one of the three slots and holds the crankshaft from turning by wedging it against the driveway. I used a pipe extension on my breaker bar and was really satisfied when it came loose like I hoped, without breaking knuckles or tools.

another update...
I've put everything back together and now i've got a coolant leak coming off the back end of the motor.
Is it possible that I need to do some more torqueing to yielding to get my head gasket to set properly? how about a couple brief heat cycles to allow the sealing surface of the gasket to flow? I've posted a couple other specific posts related to this project but it sort of seems that these longer posts lose interest with the masses. Thanks for some valuable input so far. I've run the motor less than 5 minutes FWIW.

No, if your torqued properly - 30 NM, then 90 degrees and then another 90 degrees..you don't need to torque again.

A coolant leak from back of engine is rare. Where exactly is it coming from? Passenger or Driver's side?

I removed the aluminum stiffener/skid plate and backed the car out a bit so I could pressure wash the oil and other various fluids off the spot I was working. Now I can get a good look from the underside.
I'm hoping it's only that I failed to tighten the coolant temp switch past the finger tight I remember.
It is possible that's where the leak is coming from and would follow the head to block parting line over to the exhaust side and down from there. Hopefully if that's the case I can get a wrench on it without taking off the intake again.

I bought the cheapest open-end wrench for that sensor (is it 22mm?) and cut it in half...works great...It doesn't need too much torque to tighten.

Were you able to get at it with the intake still on? I have a 22mm crow's foot wrench and a cheap 22mm that could lose half it's length. From the top or underneath?

You bet...take the intake cowling under the wipers off and you have oodles of room. A crow's foot might not work, but cutting a 22mm open end wrench works great.

I have a set of specialty sockets I bought to do O2 sensors but have a few different for ECT sensors etc. Wondering if one that I have would fit in the space

I was able to put a 3/8" universal on a 22mm crows foot and connect solidly to the sensor. It was well tightened. I decided to wiggle some things coolant related in the neighborhood and discovered the heater hose that goes from the brand new hard pipe to the area just under the sensor and heard pressure releasing when I flexed the connector with the wire clip to the hard pipe joint, several times.
A quick look at realoem.com shows two options for that hose. If I contact the hose vendor with the last 7 of the vin number will they be able to define which of the two hoses I need to order? I will do a pressure test next to verify I have leakage from that union.

That hose and it's quick connect is usually not a problem...Did you use OEM or Rein Heater pipes?