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^Yes, but that happens anytime the battery dies {or alternator goes). Is it just bad luck to trip the ews in that situation or is it usually due, like freestyler, attempting to read modules or? LoL, my battery is constantly going dead (if it sits for 3+ days) because I haven't deleted ehc2 yet and the battery is 4+ years old. Maybe I should get on that... ;)
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I've helped dozens of people with dead batteries issue. 4 so far have mentioned ews and at least two of those were no battery for over a month. It's rare to take out the ews.
If your battery can't hold a charge for week it's long over due for replacement |
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I applaud your risk taking personality [emoji1787] I hope your electric 4 series and mine can race someday!![emoji6] Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk |
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I was playing around with my brand new Foxwell as well when all hell broke loose on my X. It seems to be the common denominator. My EWS is still out. And I can't sink it because I can't keep car above 12 volts. I was also doing a battery register at the time with my Foxwell. DONT DO THAT!!!
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Well turns out I had my timing messed up as I had replaced intermediate levers and made a stupid mistake. Needless to stay I retimed but I think I have valve damage so I am in the process of pulling the head. I had low compression on the driver bank. Somebody come drill a hole in my head :dunno:
I have the timing tools but I think I was 180 degrees off. |
I helped bring 3 M62tu back from the dead with exchanging a good handful of valves. I spun suspect valves in a drill to pick the straight ones. We had a courple spare heads from a donor motor not terrible work, you'll figure it out. Get a second pair of eyes on the timing. I had almost three danger thing happen: I was doing the 720° turn to tension the chain and I just loosened the cam nuts and left the timing tool attached. Of course the left hand thread nut tightened without me realizing, fortunately my buddy was there in the garage and noticed the intake cam wasn't turning before I turned the crank far enough to break shit.
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The way I messed up was that I forgot I had the intake timing clamp on the camshaft and spun the motor by hand using a socket on the harmonic balancer.
It was tight so I saw the clamp on and removed it. Thinking I just tightened the balancer bolt what really happened was the vanos intake gear moved. The car never started up and I realized my error. So now I almost have the head off and want to do a leak down test before actually removing the head. It has been running rough for a while and I thought it was intermediate levers. I had ordered and installed some different levers from a functioning motor and that seemed to help but still had uneven combustion. If the bottom end is good I will get a donor head and make 1 good one out of 2. Any thoughts on this? Could the cam shaft be worn? Can I use a caliper to measure cam lift to verify. At least I am becoming an expert on the tear down of this motor. :rolleyes: |
Unless your car was in the range of the bad I.L. it's not likely they were the problem. When the engine can't get the valves into the right place with good levers it's the eccentric shaft that is the problem. That said you should be able to do a compression test to confirm you didn't do any damage to the valve.
I think N62 has a different type of rekuctor wheel (aokid vs plate) I actually distorted the rekuctor wheel when the cam nut self tightened. If you are having problem on only one bank you should be able to compare eccentric shafts. Also the set points for however the eccentric motors know where they are could be a problem I don't know how the motors know where zero is. I have heard of people replacing the motor/s to solve the problem. |
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