Like "Brain Surgery" you are cutting into the case and unless you know what you are doing you will most likely damage the circuit board or the "Brain" of the FOB.

https://www.bmwgm5.com/kf_wos.htm

I get a kick out of his wall of shame. I forgot about his service, been around forever. Valuable resource, think I've bought batteries from him on Ebay. I agree though, that if you aren't someone who has the skills (or the ability to pick up simple skills quickly), $50 is a small fee for a repaired key.

Still not sure it's anything like medical brain surgery to open up one of these keys. But hey, maybe I'll give that a go if the wife starts being un-reponsive to my inputs. ;)

Hope you have a dog for a good buddy.

The wall of shame is great. The prices with the "already fucked with" cost penalty. I managed to drill a hole through the PCB knocking out a trace and had to patch. (I drilled and tapped 2mm threads to use micro Allen head screws to bolt the thing back together)

Clear copy on all the helpful advice. Unfortunately, the key was already broken open when I bought the car. It did work until the battery died. It does not look to be a rechargeable version. The only other key I have starts and opens the car, but has no buttons.

Anyone have a picture of the red light? I've never seen one on any of my three X5s. Perhaps these Middle Eastern models don't have the alarm?

Just send it to the guy that I posted "The wall of Shame". The battery has to be a rechargeable Lithium battery and needs to be spot welded, not soldered to the board.

Can't Sync Keys
 

The DIY batteries have Solder tabs wooded on so it's not a difficult job for somebody that has soldering skill however you won't have replacement button switches or experience so @UAL assessment is correct in that's the best bet. I would prob buy an actual key from the online dealer that sells real keys for a second key.

I'm saying literally that is what I would do as I'm planning to order one soon so I can do the reflow/button switch/ battery replace on my only key which remote stopped working about 18 months ago.

I have read not exaggerating over a dozen similar threads where the final result is a dealer key.

In those threads, I can estimate about a 15:1 ratio of didn't to did work with non dealer solutions and the :1 examples are where the EWS hardware is removed to pair with a new key or the guts are swapped to a new key. The only other option I've seen with solid success is cutting the blade off an eBay key to use as a separate remote.

Not saying you won't resolve this issue but I think your car is stuck in a mode where you can't program keys likely do to the open roof.

In that case a new dealer key will still not resolve your issue there problem is you don't know if your primary key battery is functional or the remote is broken on it so you have no control.

I'm actually PACE certified in through-hole soldering and board repair, so it might be I'm more of a brain surgeon than the fellow you suggest. I don't mind you assuming though.

Now, Wyn saying I don't have experience with this particular situation is correct, which is what I came to these boards for. If we assume it isn't a "key" issue, what else could it be? Reading Scott's site, he says when programming the keys that only the doors matter for the purpose or programming. Leaning towards the FZV or maybe even just a fuse issue. Is there anything INPA and such could tell me about the issue?

Thanks again guys for the help. I don't want this issue to persist and have the physical lock break from over use.

I have some experience cutting open two of my keys to reflow and replace one of the batteries.

I was successful in both keys even repairing the one I drilled through a trace.

That said after working about two years one was lost and the other stopped working.

I can't risk reflow again on my only key so I'll be getting a factory key when I get tax return then I will open up my key and reflow it again.

You should check the battery on your primary key then measure it while pressing each button to confirm the button switches are working.

Then: figure out if the roof window switch is your problem you can maybe jumper the switch to convince the car it's closed. (odds are that will be tricky BMW uses hall effect sensors not micro switches usually.

The clown nose is the red hemisphere on the bottom of the rearview mirror and when alarm is set the nose flashes.

You can confirm if the alarm is working a couple ways:

1. Open hood, press the hood switch, lock the door with key (helper), release hood switch. That should set off alarm.

2. Leave a door or trunk open, lock driver door with key, close door. That should make the corner lights all flash to confirm alarm set.

I'm pretty sure alarm will set with roof window open so unsure that will help you I'm thinking monitor the roof open sensor and open/close a couple times see if you can set it to close and start key sync.